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Zeroing ...

Discussion in 'Anything Airgun Related' started by Robhalex, Mar 11, 2014.

  1. Robhalex

    Robhalex Engaging Member

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    Location:
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    I have been having a lot of difficult zeroing my s400. I can get it to a close proximity to where it needs to be at about 10 yards, but can't fine tune it the last little bit. I can adjust the dials numerous clicks and not see any change in the pellets impact point.

    I was wondering if anyone knows of a shop or a person north of bristol (between bristol and Gloucester) who does zeroing as part of a service. (Rifle has been serviced already and had all seals replaced and was adjusted to 11.3) I just need someone to get it zeroed at about 30-40 yards for me. And maybe teach me abit about ranging.

    Would be great if someone could take me out shooting, as all the clubs my ways either have a two year waiting list or aren't taking new members on! Would be great to get learn as much as I can so I can make the most of summer. But most importantly I need to be zeroed or my summer is going to be spent a few inches above/below/left/right of where I should be. And that sucks the fun out of it!!
     
  2. Akita177

    Akita177 The Absolute State of Britian podcast

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    Which way are you running out of adjustment is it for hieght i.e you pellet is still landing to low?
     
  3. yorkshireshoot

    yorkshireshoot Posting Addict

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    It can take quite a few clicks to change poi mate just keep on with it . Also check all your mounts are nipped up tight as my mate been struggling to hold a zero and when I checked the two screws on the dovetail were loose as hell , just a thought ! :)
     
  4. Robhalex

    Robhalex Engaging Member

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    Every screw is done up tightly but not overly tight. I've had to shim the rear mount a little bit with carefully cut and folded tin foil because it was falling well short. Like I said I've managed to get it a heck of a lot closer using shim. But it's fine tuning it, no level of adjustment seems to make a difference. At say 10 yards the pellets fall two inches below and 2 inches right. Then I adjust for it and it's still low and right. I adjust again and still low and right. Doesn't seem to want to go in the last little bit!
     
  5. Robhalex

    Robhalex Engaging Member

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    At 25 yards it should take 16 clicks per inch yeah?
     
  6. yorkshireshoot

    yorkshireshoot Posting Addict

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    Try swapping mounts over mate and flipping em so dovetail screws are on other side of rifle if that makes sense to you , heard a few people had this problem and sorted it this way .
     
  7. oliver13

    oliver13 Donator

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    At 10M you should need 10 clicks to move a quarter inch, if it suddenly stops then I'd suspect something wrong inside the scope, like a stripped thread on the adjusters, or just simply running out of adjustment. Like Yorkshire says, try mixing & matching the mounts a bit.

    The fact you have to shim the mounts is a bit ominous, is there any chance the barrel is bent?
     
  8. army andy

    army andy Member

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    the air arms can get the barrel knocked out of line quite easy, i had this happen on my s410 and thought my sight was broken as i come not adjust it but, i had it pointed out that the barrel was off line.a simple job of loosening the grub screw letting it bounce back in line and tighten up.as said above it can take a lot of clicks to move your pom
     
  9. Igotknobblies

    Igotknobblies Engaging Member

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    Mount your gun with protection for the stock in a 'workmate'. Without moving the gun, look through the scope and move windage and elevation one at a time throught the entire range. You will find where the cross hairs start to move and then stop. Count the number of turns over this movement phase then set the scope to the mid point. Off your shoulder, fire a shot. You will see how the gun shoots in relation to the point of aim. If it is way out, find the fault and sort or shim the scope. When shots fall near the point of aim then you can then adjust as normal (unless you're me). I take 3 shots rested but off the shoulder. I then put the gun in the black and decker workmate and gently move the gun until the cross hairs are on the original aim point. Without nudging the gun, turn windage and elevation until the cross hairs sit on point of impact. Hey presto! Good luck. IGK
     
  10. Springrrr

    Springrrr Active Member

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    There are a number of ways to zero a scope with the best probably being the V block method. You cut V's in two pieces of wood and mount them solid to a flat based piece so there is no movement of the V's. Put the scope in the V's and aim it at a cross mark on a wall about 10 yards away. Then turn the scope in the V's and watch the cross hairs move in a circular pattern as you turn. Adjust horizontal and vertical until you get the least amount of movement off the cross. That is the center of the scope and it should be very close to the center of the click range of both horizontal and vertical adjustments.

    Then put the scope into the mounts on the rifle. Get a fairly large piece of paper or cardboard and aim at a center dot on it. Don't expect the gun to be on target but instead of adjusting the controls, do what has to be done to the mounts to get the scope on target. This may include shims or, in my case, even file the mount to get it on.

    By doing this, you keep the adjustments you made in the V blocks and use the the scope's adjustments to fine tune in an attempt to keep it as close to center as possible.

    By doing this, if you ever have to adjust for wind or elevation, one movement does not effect the other nearly as much.
     
  11. terry1001

    terry1001 Major Poster

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    army andy has mentioned the possibility that the barell has been knocked out of alignment. There is a clamp around the air tube and barrel which has a couple of grub screws in the lower part, if you loosen these the barrel should return to its correct position and then you can tighten up the screws and try again. It's worth checking this before you do anything else as it only takes a couple of seconds to do.
     
  12. Accuspell

    Accuspell Pro Poster

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    I haven't heard anyone mention to you that at 10 yards, you SHOULD BE about 2" low, because the barrel is about 2" below the scope.......you will do better to set up a target at 20 yards to start with, zero your scope so that it is shooting about 1" high at 20 yards - then put the target out at 30 yards and shoot at it. I bet you won't be far out provided your scope is mounted directly over ther barrel. Did you set your scope on a plumb line to ensure the cross hairs are vertical, and directly vertical over the barrel?
     
  13. Robhalex

    Robhalex Engaging Member

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    Do you mean the figure of 8 looking thing that goes around the air cylinder and barrel?
     
  14. Robhalex

    Robhalex Engaging Member

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    Yes I set the scope using a plumb line to ensure it's in line when mounting the scope in the mounts.
     
  15. Robhalex

    Robhalex Engaging Member

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    If I had access to a work mate or tools I'd be able to try some of these methods.

    What I did for my springer (meteor mk7) was put a target at 5 meters, get it hitting bullseye every time then move to 10 metres and do the same then 15m etc...making small adjustments at each distance. But it just doesn't seem to work for me!!
     
  16. Robhalex

    Robhalex Engaging Member

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    Location:
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    This is the rifle in question. I'm having a thought that the barrel may be the fault here? Because the silencer is held on with a grub screw, but can't actually remove it. It's almost like it's been crimped to the barrel. It rotates when twisted but just can't pull it off. (I only know because I wanted to see how easy it would be to remove for repainting or replacing)

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1394570287.052851.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1394570313.853185.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1394570325.221815.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1394570335.904766.jpg
     
  17. terry1001

    terry1001 Major Poster

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    Yes.
    The grub screw clamping your silencer in place may have raised a burr which is preventing the silencer from sliding off, it should be easy to remove. Although it will be simple to tap it off using a small hammer and a soft drift it is likely to cause some damage to the silencer (which is probably aluminium) and may reveal damage caused to the barrel by the grubscrew.
     
  18. Robhalex

    Robhalex Engaging Member

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    Is this likely to be a reason why my zero is so off?

    How would you remove the silencer then? The grub screw comes out and the silencer rotates easily. It just won't slip off the barrel.
     
  19. terry1001

    terry1001 Major Poster

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    What I would do, and you should consider how much you want to remove it, is this - clamp the barrel firmly using non-marking vice jaws (I use 2 pieces of wood with V shaped grooves which will fit around the barrel and allow it to be gripped tightly in a vice). Dont clamp the action as you don't want to put any stress on it or the way the barrel is clamped into the action. Remove the grub screw and check that there is only one. Get a drift made of aluminium or brass or even a piece of hard wood, place it against the end of the silencer (obviously the action end) and tap it firmly with a light hammer. This should remove the silencer - make sure it doesn't fall onto a concrete floor. If it moves but doesn't come off the move the drift to the other side of the silencer and tap there. There isn't much to get the drift on so be careful.
    It is likely that there is only a small burr or bit of raised metal on the barrel which is fouling the silencer so very little force should be needed, If you're not confident in doing any of this I suggest you take it to a local gunsmith and ask him to do it for you.
     
  20. Accuspell

    Accuspell Pro Poster

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    Or the local farm will have a workshop you could peraps do it in....local garage? Someone you get on with will have somewhere you can do it. Using a drift to tap it off - you could sit on a chair and grip it with your knees and do it -as Terry has said, it doesn't need much force so your knees as a vice is plenty tight enough. Sharp taps will have more effect than big wallops.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2014

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