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Tung Oil On Walnut

Discussion in 'Anything Airgun Related' started by Ian Kelly, Mar 17, 2020.

  1. Ian Kelly

    Ian Kelly Ginger177

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    8EE7F8CC-9FBB-4E6D-9A43-C58CD1231A61.jpeg So after looking on here an YouTube I decided to give it ago myself as my stock looked a little pale.. well after sanding up to 320 grit an getting it all prepared I’ve added it’s first coat! I have to say it looks so much better after one coat, hopefully get 3 coats on and sand in between them to get a nice finish. Has anyone else used it to good effect? Here’s a before and after first coat. 83563082-EE53-43ED-BA4B-9802E79BFD67.jpeg
     
    talent, Desmond.22, phil.m and 3 others like this.
  2. Blackmax

    Blackmax Forum Rude Guy

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    Try cutting it 1:3 with boiled linseed oil as Tung oil contracts on its own.
     
    phil.m, Dr B, Ian Kelly and 1 other person like this.
  3. Desmond.22

    Desmond.22 'All round good egg'

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    Yeah looks nice mate
     
    Ian Kelly likes this.
  4. Blackmax

    Blackmax Forum Rude Guy

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    Stock looks lovely by the way, worth spending the effort on.
     
    Ian Kelly likes this.
  5. Ian Kelly

    Ian Kelly Ginger177

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    Cheers lads it’s only had one thin coat as I didn’t want to add loads straight away in case it didn’t take properly.. will adding boiled linseed be ok for the next couple of coats?
     
  6. FPoole

    FPoole Posting Addict

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    Tung oil is clear and doesn't darken the wood like boiled linseed oil will.
     
    Dr B likes this.
  7. Dag

    Dag Pro Poster

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    Can you use Tung Oil having previously used Danish Oil or vice versa? It's the compatibility of one finish on top of another that worries me as I'd hate to end up with a tacky mess on a decent walnut stock. Having started with Danish I'm tempted to stick with it ,sorry no pun intended. Wood finishes always confuse me but there's always someone on this forum who'll hopefully have the answer.
     
    Ian Kelly likes this.
  8. Blackmax

    Blackmax Forum Rude Guy

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    Use the blend I outlined 3:1 boiled linseed oil to tung oil and that’ll be fine. You can cut that with natural turps as well.
     
  9. steve9956

    steve9956 Posting Addict

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    keep at it buddy, it'll be worth it in the end !:thumb:
     
    Ian Kelly likes this.
  10. Ian Kelly

    Ian Kelly Ginger177

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    I’m unsure I know that tru oil can be added due to it being a poly based oil so it has varnish’s an other blends but I’m unsure with danish and tung oil all I did was run the stock back as it only had a light coat from factory the. Gave it a wipe down with a lint free cloth. Once done I sanded back from 120-320 grit wet/dry an added one coat of tung oil and going to leave it for 24 hours before adding the second coat I’ll apply this coat with a 500 grit wet/dry an wipe off an leave for another 24 hours then after that I’ll do the same again then add a wet coat to wipe off straight away then dry for a few days see how it looks
     
    Dag likes this.
  11. the logun-ator

    the logun-ator "can i,? wey aye man!"

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    me,i start at 240 then finish at 1000 to 1500,the higher the grit,the more it 'polishes' the wood,i just think it as paint and cut/pollish/buff it the same
    ive some pics somewhere,freshily sanded up to 1500,no oil on,and it actually has a satin sheen.
     
    Ian Kelly likes this.
  12. Ian Kelly

    Ian Kelly Ginger177

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    Definitely like to see these!
     
  13. shergar

    shergar Keyboard Hero

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    Tung oil will sit on a previous coating even if the previous coating was tung oil. OK if applied after 24 hours but if previous coat has had a week or more to oxidise then apply with wire wool to enhance bond and promote cure.
     
    Dag and Tyler durdon like this.
  14. Ian Kelly

    Ian Kelly Ginger177

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    So would leaving 24 hours then applying another coat with 500 grit be ok for the next 2 coats?
     
  15. Stockscrew

    Stockscrew Posting Addict

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    Danish oil is made from Tung or linseed oil or both, it has no specific standard recipe and is formulated by the particular manufacturer. If you have been using Danish oil stick with it although my preference is raw linseed oil with or without alkanet root depending on the colour shade required.
     
    Dag likes this.
  16. jaisalmere

    jaisalmere Quite frankly,my dear, I don’t give a dome

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    Another tip for applying a key is to use a scotch bright scouring pad, I always use this if applying varnish or Osmo, you don't need to rub hard, just take the shine off.
     
    ped and shergar like this.
  17. Stockscrew

    Stockscrew Posting Addict

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    View attachment 273221 View attachment 273222 View attachment 273223

    P3180384.JPG


    P3180384.JPG P3180383 (1).JPG
    One FX200 with a oil finished walnut stock. To get it like this Mick is correct about the rubbing down with diminishing grades of abrasive paper, however, I don't feel the need to go to 1500 grit as 1100 or 1200 gives me the finish I want. What most people do not understand is that to achieve a traditional oil finish as suitable to grace the stock on a £30,000 shotgun or expensive rifle, the grain has to be raised and filled. The grain is raised by rubbing a damp cloth over the sanded surface, when it's dry a slight roughness can be felt. Filling the grain is filling the pores in the wood that can be seen on close inspection, commercial grain fillers can be purchased but I find talc, tile grout or even white cement will do, anything that is ground as fine as flour. Once the filling and raising is done then continue with the sanding. If you have a white filler, the minute specs you can see in the wood will disappear when oil is applied. If you are using a wood dye make sure it's a spirit based one and not water based as the latter will raise the grain again.
    P3180384.JPG; P3180383 (1).JPG
     
    jaisalmere and the logun-ator like this.
  18. Dr B

    Dr B Grizzly Airgunner

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    Just use CCL oil (predominately boiled linseed oil). I'd stay clear of Danish oil on walnut stocks. :thumb:
     
    Blackmax likes this.
  19. Blackmax

    Blackmax Forum Rude Guy

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    Danish oil in its various guises and compositions is a hybrid varnish as it has driers added, so if you add tung oil it’ll just sit on the surface.

    The reason I mentioned cutting tung oil is because it wrinkles on drying on its own. Tung oil has excellent waterproofing properties amd the Chinese have been using it on their boats for centuries, so it’s excellent for hunting gun stocks.

    Most wire wool rusts so don’t use it on a stock that has or is being oiled as the fibres will break off and get imbedded into the surface. It’s ok to use wire wool if you’re sanding afterwards.

    With regards to sanding anything above 400 grit is pretty much a waste of time as you’re going to be adding a surface film anyway.
     
    PhatMan, Dr B and Vic Vinegar like this.
  20. jaisalmere

    jaisalmere Quite frankly,my dear, I don’t give a dome

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