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the best way to get rid of pitting on a project rifle

Discussion in 'Vintage collectable airguns' started by valboskie, Feb 12, 2014.

  1. valboskie

    valboskie Busy Member

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    What is the best method or products to get rid of pitting on the action of a rifle.Im trying to restore a 1965 webley Falcon for my son as an open sight plinker.I sanded the bluing off with 80 grit wet and dry nearly 4 hours of sanding and the whole Action looks leopard print .it feels smooth in places but there are darker grey marks and a few small holes.I know a few on here have restored rusty pitted rifles.How did you solve the problem.I want to blue it so any advice would be brilliant.
    Atb
    David
     
  2. OLD GIT61

    OLD GIT61 if no spring it wont do a thing

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    info

    Well if you want to blue it and make a good job,all the marks have to be removed .The finish must be a polished look , so you can see your face in it. Small parts i do on the cooker gas ring till bright blue. Then quench them in oil ,these also want polishing before hand .The marks have to be removed with a file then highly polished.The other way if the action is realy bad spray it with mat black or hamerite it .Also before you blue it or paint it .You must make sure all marks from handling it are removed , or the cream wont take. I have used fine wire wool and the blue chemical and rubbed it till its blue then nutralize it with water. After jobs done oil all metal parts and wipe it with rag .Please use a pair of gloves with the blueing cream,and eye protection.Working safe is the main thing with this acid blue cream.
     
  3. valboskie

    valboskie Busy Member

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    Here are some pictures before I started I have 5 hours sanding done.
    I just used wet n dry and just used it dry.
     

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  4. Meteor62

    Meteor62 Major Poster

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    I always use it wet.
     
  5. thisisdonald

    thisisdonald Engaging Member

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    Another thing to remember is to degrease your wire wool if you are going to use it to rub bluing in with. Some wools are impregnated with oil to stop them rusting.
     
  6. valboskie

    valboskie Busy Member

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    I'm a bit apprehensive about taking a file to the barrel and action I don't want to ruin a near 50 year old
    Rifle.
    If it was worth the money getting it professionally blued I would not have hesitated
    But paying more than its worth is not feasible .

    Donald this was the rifle I was talking to you about to get rust blued and experimented on before
    You risk your tx200.
    If it does not work I will just paint it if it does the we falcon will look nice .
    And I have a webley vulcan you can use as well .
    I will split any cost with you if you need to get a tank made up or gas for your burner for boiling.

    Cheers
    David
     
  7. valboskie

    valboskie Busy Member

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    I'm a bit apprehensive about taking a file to the barrel and action I don't want to ruin a near 50 year old
    Rifle.
    If it was worth the money getting it professionally blued I would not have hesitated
    But paying more than its worth is not feasible .

    Donald this was the rifle I was talking to you about to get rust blued and experimented on before
    You risk your tx200.
    If it does not work I will just paint it if it does the we falcon will look nice .
    And I have a webley vulcan you can use as well .
    I will split any cost with you if you need to get a tank made up or gas for your burner for boiling.

    Cheers
    David
     
  8. thisisdonald

    thisisdonald Engaging Member

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    Once I get my shed built I have a heater to go in it and I can do some more experimenting .. once the good weather cpmes back ill make a start. . I need to do some serious hedge trimming and base building first!
     
  9. Egg

    Egg Major Poster

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    With a gun of that vintage I'd take the plunge and send it for a re-blue. OK, it might not float the purist's boat but it'll look absolutely spanking if done professionally. Then it's just a case of sourcing some new screws and it will look great.
     
  10. terry1001

    terry1001 Major Poster

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    From the photos the pitting looks serious and I can't imagine that you will ever get it all out using wet and dry by hand (it's better to use it wet for most jobs as it keeps the paper clean and it cuts better). Painting s likely to be the only realistic way to achieve a decent finish as bluing needs a well polished surface which is free from imperfections.
    Hopefully I'm wrong and it can be revived and treated to a nice new blue finish, either way it looks like a lot of hard work ahead, good luck with it.
     
  11. OLD GIT61

    OLD GIT61 if no spring it wont do a thing

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    This project will only look good if all the rust is removed.And only way is grind it out or polish it ether way is drastic .It is in bad condition ,if it was mine with history of ownership i would get it done by a good gun shop it will be £100 or there abouts.But if it is just another gun paint it up it will hide the holes in the finish .I have refinished quite a few guns but not in the condition of your gun i would look for a better example.This gun was made in the 1000s so not rare to find a good one.
     
  12. valboskie

    valboskie Busy Member

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    This hw77 mick did is my inspiration showing what can be done
     

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  13. valboskie

    valboskie Busy Member

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    This is how the hw77 project finished its unbelievable his was much worse than mine to start with.
     

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  14. thevoid

    thevoid Posting Addict

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    If the pits are too deep to be polished out then shotblasting is an option, I've had it done to two guns now, a meteor and a falcon.
    [​IMG]
    Makes for a great uniform base to reblue and something a bit different to traditional smooth finishing
     
  15. OLD GIT61

    OLD GIT61 if no spring it wont do a thing

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    The void thats a good idea mate and it takes a lot of hard work off your hands .Let you spend more time on the stock.Bad pitting will take some removing if in a bad condition .The longer they are in the barrel the more material it takes off the other ends of the gun like the sharp parts ,flats and any logo thats showing. Yours looks very good, nice post.
     
  16. valboskie

    valboskie Busy Member

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    here is a little update on my progress with the pitting 10 hours of wet and dry sanding
     

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  17. valboskie

    valboskie Busy Member

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    there is still some pitting but its not as deep.
    so it might be time to think about bluing
    cheers
    david
     

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