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SPA CP-1 (and AirForceOne Trophy) pistol stripdown

Discussion in 'Airgun Data Center' started by RichieRich, Mar 24, 2015.

  1. RichieRich

    RichieRich Ping!

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    Right Ladies and Gents, Here is a stripdown of your CP-1/AF1 Trophy pistol


    You will need the following:
    2mm Allen
    2.5mm Allen
    3mm Allen
    Kitchen roll
    Moly grease
    Tea/Coffee


    Firstly, ensure there is no pellet in the barrel, and make sure there is no CO2 loaded. Myself and this forum will not be held responsible if you are a Div and forget this crucial point and end up shooting yourself in the face. You have been warned!!


    Starting off, Use the 3mm Allen to remove the trigger guard bolt.
    [​IMG]


    Then using a 2.5mm Allen, remove the rear grip screw and seperate the action from the grip.
    [​IMG]


    With the 3mm Allen, remove the rear breech/endcap bolt (the spring is not under tension, just make sure it is not cocked at this stage otherwise you'll end up with an endcap in your eye, or a lovely dent in the wall). Then remove the endcap, spring guide, and spring.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Pull the cocking bolt fully to the rear to reveal the 2.5mm bolt in the breech. Remove this, and the breech block will then seperate from the CO2 tube. (*NOTE* On re-assembly, be very careful when screwing this back in. It is easy to cross-thread the bolt and damage the thread on the CO2 tube, it will require re-threading with an M3 tap set. Replace the M3 screw with one 1mm longer if this happens)
    [​IMG]


    Next, push out the pins in the trigger unit. They come out quite easily. Once the trigger and sear are free, remove them from the unit along with the sear spring. The next pic shows where to grease upon re-assembly. When re-assembling, ensure the pins are flush with the trigger unit, otherwise you will run into issues inserting it back into the grip, and when re-adding the trigger guard.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Using the 3mm Allen, remove the bolt and washer in the hammer. This will be a little tough to start as there is threadlock compound on this bolt. Once removed, slide the hammer out of the tube, then clean the inside with kitchen roll (mine was manky!)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    You may want to at this point, polish the trigger mating surfaces, and the hammer edges. These are the only things that need polishing inside the pistol to give you a better experience with the CP-1/Trophy.
    [​IMG]


    To remove the valve unit from the tube, ensure you have removed the brass transfer port collet and the 2 o-rings. Keep this safe and away from any dirt/debris. Then using a 3mm Allen, unscrew the bolt holding the valve in place. The valve can then be slid out through the CO2 loading end of the tube (to avoid catching any burrs from the cocking slot). Valve seperation is easy at this point to gain access to the internals, as the 2 parts of the valve body unscrew from each other.
    [​IMG]


    To remove the barrel from the breech, use the 2mm Allen to remove the 3 grub screws on the top of the breech. Then slide the barrel out slowly to avoid damaging the o-rings.
    [​IMG]




    Things to note:
    The inside of the CO2 tube does not require polishing, I found it to be quite well finished.
    There is no option for bulk filling, as the capsule seals agaist the valve (unlike the QB78)
    The barrel o-rings to the breech are fragile, so please be careful removing and re-inserting the barrel.
    The front sight/muzzle weight, can be removed with a 2mm Allen and will need the sight post bolt loosening slightly along with removing the lower grubscrew.
    These pistols are LOUD!! They are not backyard friendly, so i would suggest shushing it with one of PorkyYorky's mods, or a Tinbum shroud. Both of these incorporates a foresight to retain open sights, otherwise you can use a 10mm 1/2" UNF silencer adapter in lieu of the muzzle weight with any mod you want. I have tested one with a Hogan Decimeater with the hammer being louder than the muzzle report, but this option would require an optic.
    Removing the rear sight can be done by unscrewing the elevation screw, and the sight will slide off the rail.
     
  2. chrisbaker42

    chrisbaker42 Busy Member

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    Many thanks, what an excellent guide.
     
  3. cloverleaf

    cloverleaf Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    Good work - a nice informative thread and everyone loves pics :D

    I reckon with a new trigger blade and a few geometry changes that could be made into a half-decent true-2-stage unit..
     
  4. Darren Petts

    Darren Petts Temporarily Alive

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    Thanks for the guide. I too reckon that without too much effort a two stage unit can be obtained. A couple of tapped holes and M3 grub screws in the indicated places may well do. Thanks to richierich for the picture.
    [​IMG]

    Alternatively sleeving this pin would leave you with a single stage trigger with much less travel. There's currently a whopping 5mm of travel on mine with little indication as to when it's letting go. It'd also make for more room in the guard.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2015
  5. RichieRich

    RichieRich Ping!

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    I've removed the play on my trigger by other means ;)
     
  6. Darren Petts

    Darren Petts Temporarily Alive

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    Unashamedly stolen from http://www.airrifle.co.za/threads/40793-NYCA-SPA-CP1-Trigger-Mod-Guide and many thanks to the original author.

    The CP1 (or Air force One Trophy, depending where you're getting them) are amazing little Co2 bolt action pistols. They have unbelievable power and shot count and can achieve fantastic groups when in the right hands....they do however have one monstrous drawback, the standard trigger is disgusting! its pretty much all creep and grinding. Being a bit of a trigger nut, i went about finding a solution to this problem. it became immediately apparent that the mod required would be simple and very effective...it was! in fact it looks as though this gun was designed to have a 2 stage trigger but it was just never done during production.

    NYCA have done quite a few of these now and we have it down to a fine art. Here’s how we go about transforming the utterly repulsive standard CP1 trigger into a TRUE 2-Stage Trigger. This is a fairly simple job to perform at home and requires very basic tools however there is certainly a lot that can go wrong and spare parts are not available as far as I know. Proceed with caution! NY Custom Airguns does this mod for only R250 so if you're unsure and want the experts to do it, give us a call

    This mod requires 3 things:


    • 2 grub screws into the trigger blade, one for the 1st stage fulcrum and a 2nd stage stop screw.
    • 2 grub screws into the trigger housing to replace the pin that stops the triggers return travel. These are there to allow space to adjust the trigger once installed.
    • Correction to the sear contact surfaces.


    First things first, we need to strip the action out the stock and remove all the trigger components. Im going to assume that if you are attempting this then you can get this far without instruction[​IMG]


    The grub screw holes in the trigger blade are drilled and tapped. We give 1mm clearance between the rear edge of the trigger and the circumference of the first tapped hole, then 0.5mm between the outer edges of the finished holes. Take your time here, measure correctly and punch guide holes, then drill with a center drill and finally with a 2.5mm drill before tapping.
    [​IMG]


    The front grub screw needs to be rounded and polished as its our primary sear contact, the rear grub screw is used to set the 2nd stage and is left flat.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    The stop pin holes are already the right size for tapping so no need to drill them out. Run the tap through both sides and insert a short grub screw in each hole setting them to protrude about 0.5mm proud of the inner side of the trigger housing.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The last step is to cut down the sides of the sear to reduce the surface area that comes into contact with the hammer. Its then squared off and all the contact surfaces are polished.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]




    With all that done we can reassemble and set the trigger. I have found the CP1 standard trigger spring works well with this mod, its soft enough to produce a light trigger but still hard enough to return the trigger if the first stage is taken up then released.
     
  7. knighthawk

    knighthawk Posting Addict

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    great post
     
  8. oedbachgen

    oedbachgen Top Poster

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    Great strip down, thank you for showing:up:.
     
  9. alanbathurst

    alanbathurst Newbie

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    Location:
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    Air force one co2 seal

    Any idea where I can obtain one of these
    Either just the seal or the brass threaded holder complete with the seal
    Thanks in anticipation
     
  10. Bonedome

    Bonedome Well-Known Member

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    I found that the long trigger travel on mine was leading me to drop the muzzle, (I always found the same problem with the 9mm Beretta 92 as well) so I put a shim in the space between the flat plate on the back of the trigger and the sear. I made it out of a strip of foil from a food carton, folded over several times until I got the thickness and the trigger travel I liked. It's still single stage, but lets off much sooner now, and the muzzle doesn't drop as much any more.

    I'd also recommend putting a spot of glue on the tiny magnet that holds the magazine or single shot tray in place. If you swap between one and the other, the magnet is loose enough to drop out. I've searched my kitchen from end to end on two separate occasions looking for a tiny 2mm silver dot, and have finally learned my lesson.

    Bonedome.
     

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