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SMK TH208 Strip,Tune and rebuild

Discussion in 'Stickies Only' started by mattyts, Feb 20, 2014.

  1. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    First off,let me say that this is my first strip and rebuild project,this is not guide,it is just me documenting how I did things.


    Photos were took withmy phone,I did not initially plan on taking photos so excuse the shoddy pictures.


    This is a work in process,things may be added or changed as I go along,once again this is not a guide,just a small build diary






    I started by removing the action from the stock,done by removing the trigger housing and the 2 screws on the fore end of the stock,being careful to catch any washers that might have fallen out,I then put them in a cardboard tray as not to loose them


    CAM00274_zps13aa6841.jpg

    The next step was to remove the trigger block,to do this you have to remove the 2 largest pins at the back of the action,taking care to ensure the pre load is safely contained.


    CAM00277_zps6918eb81.jpg

    To contain the preload,I placed the action on the edge of a solid table while pushing down on it.


    CAM00278_zps59363244.jpg

    Then I had someone else push out the pins using a small screw driver,while slowly easing upwards to absorb the pre load,the spring was compressed approx 1 –1.5 inch so making sure the pre load is contained is very important.
    Once I had done that,Then put the pins back into the trigger unit to keep it all together,this isn't essential but is recommended.


    CAM00280_zps1b2d2cf0.jpg




    Now that the triggerblock is removed,I could then remove the spring,shown here


    CAM00282_zps70b91aa4.jpg


    Next was to remove the cocking linkage,to do this,I had to remove the pin joining the 2 arms together,these are held in by small circlips which where placed aside for easy retrieval later.
    CAM00283_zps813c2697.jpg








    There is also a small washer in-between which can be removed and the faces polished for smoother cocking


    CAM00284_zpsd0c535b9.jpg


    The cocking arm attached to the piston had to be wiggled free by placing it at a 45 degree angle then pushing forward to release it.


    CAM00285_zpsf74d899b.jpg

    Now the piston can be removed,it took a small amount of force to push this out and there was a lot of grease and debris on it which will be removed later.


    CAM00290_zpse92bd18f.jpg


    All the parts are then placed in another cardboard box ready for de-greasing


    CAM00291_zpsfee8c161.jpg


    With all the parts except the piston in a plastic tub,they were then brushed down with a mild solvent and rinsed.


    CAM00294_zps3e032c07.jpg


    Then placed on tissue waiting for them to be thoroughly dry,I washed the piston separately so I could focus on it a little bit more.


    CAM00295_zps32f14d37.jpg

    While waiting for the internals to dry,I separated the compression chamber from the barrel by removing the small screws holding them together.


    CAM00296_zpsf767d851.jpg


    All mating parts were degreased and lightly honed with 400 grit wet & dry paper.


    CAM00297_zps35912ff4.jpg


    I then set the barrel aside and focused on the chamber, de-burring the cocking linkage slot and area with a small diamond file


    CAM00298_zpsb1489350.jpg


    Then repeating the process with 400 grit paper to get rid of any very fine burrs


    CAM00299_zps47fd548d.jpg




    Then with some light paper wrapped round a dowel I honed the walls of the chamber so that it would be compatible with the piston upon assembly,unfortunately no pictures were taken during this process.


    After that,I had to wash out the compression chamber to be free of swarf and old grease,I did this by flushing solvent through the chamber, alternating between the transfer port and the other side,changing the solvent regularly so it remained clean.


    CAM00302_zps7a5c2ee4.jpg


    Now the chamber was clean,I turned to the spring,paying careful attention to the ends,polishing them by using some scotch brite and 400 grit paper,I didn't spend long on this,just getting rid of any burrs.


    CAM00304_zpsc21ec81a.jpg


    By this time,the piston had dried and I began to polish it,by putting it in a drill and wrapping the seal in tape (you can remove the seal but I decided to leave it on there)


    CAM00305_zps974b46bf.jpg


    Spinning it quite slow and using 400 grit wet and dry paper,lubricated with the solvent soit wouldn't leave any traces,I then switched to metal polish to give it a shine without being mirror polished,I didn't want this and decided to leave the cross hatch scratch pattern on there for the lubricant to 'grip' on to.
    This is the endresult,a piston free of any burrs,pitting or scratches


    CAM00306_zps078f4659.jpg


    After then de burring and honing any other parts like washers or any mating faces and contact points,it was time for a final de grease and wash for all the parts to get rid of any swarf created throughout the polishing process.


    CAM00293_zps01b7e995.jpg

    Now with all the parts thoroughly cleaned,polished and washed it was time to set them on some tissue and wait for them to dry, final assembly and lubrication will be done in the following days.


    I also plan to refinish the stock and get rid of the shiny laquer SMK put on thebeech.


    Updates and data/results to follow

    Thankyou for reading :)
     
  2. Egg

    Egg Major Poster

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    Cracking post chief - looking forward to the next part :up:
     
  3. GIRLYPANTS

    GIRLYPANTS Banned

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    nice1 matt:up:
     
  4. lone wolf

    lone wolf Pro Poster

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    Nice one mate!
    Its nice to see it in stages well done:)

    Not bad looking rifles them smk208

    Gaz
     
  5. doodsy

    doodsy Donator

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    well done matt, good work and well documented, I await the next update :up:
     
  6. andy draper

    andy draper Posting Addict

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    Well done lad,learning all the time,you will be stripping pcp's soon.
    andy.
     
  7. jay5488

    jay5488 Donator

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    That's the T05 trigger unit, the same one as I was having trouble with, any probs reassembling let me know pal!!!! Cracking write up, just done the same on my hammerli springer which looks to be exactly the same action with a different stock!!!!
     
  8. stevemandm

    stevemandm Honorary Member

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    any tips for the young pup mate ?
     
  9. jay5488

    jay5488 Donator

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    When you assemble the trigger unit make sure the plate that runs along the top of the unit, the one with the long spring, you need to make sure that it is exactly central otherwise the piston rod won't catch on the sear, the safety catch won't locate properly either, I find the best way is to build the trigger unit up fit it back in the action then using some long nosed pliers and a small flat head screwdriver gently ease it into position, then slide in the safety catch!!!!
     
  10. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    The trigger is quite alright as it is so I have left it as one piece..for now :rolleyes:
     
  11. Egg

    Egg Major Poster

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    That's the game mate!! They're all trying to sway in there and edge you out of the fettle Matty.... one singer - one song.....use the force! :D
     
  12. jay5488

    jay5488 Donator

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    If you remove the safety catch the chances are the plate will have moved, you will know which one I mean when you look in the top of the unit, I've not done anything with my trigger either, they're ok as they are but it seems after all the googling I did a few people have struggled to assemble them correctly.
    Just trying to help,

    Jamie
     
  13. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    I'll have a look at it tomorrow,I tried to stray away from the safety but if the trigger unit is already misaligned,I may have to fettle that too ;)
     
  14. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    put it all back last night after lubing spring and piston, with thanks to jay5488 for helping out with the tricky trigger.
    put 50 unweighed jsb exacts down it today, and the last 20 were fired over the chrony, and are as below.

    733. 734. 739. 738. 739. 737. 741. 741. 742. 740. 741. 737. 743. 745. 740. 744. 740. 746. 744. 745.

    pretty consistant, and the power was 10.07 to 10.43 ftlb.
    the cocking action and the firing cycle is a lot smoother and quieter, and jamie worked his magic on the trigger to make it much smoother and responsive.
    as you can see, the power is very steadily rising, and i'm hoping it will be somewhere between 10.6 -11 ftlb when fully bedded in after a full tin or so.
    i'm very pleased with it so far, what do you guys think ?
    matty

    ps, thats the action sorted, now to the stock !
     
  15. secretagentmole

    secretagentmole Low down, dirty and quiet...

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    Well done, a comprehensive how it is done guide and well written too!

    Good results!
     
  16. stevemandm

    stevemandm Honorary Member

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    thanks mate, mattys always tinkering with stuff, and this is the biggest strip, fettle and rebuild - and he's well impressed with the outcome and the results so far
     
  17. SteveO

    SteveO Top Poster

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    Well done Matty!

    I found the lacquer was so thick on the XS that using a Stanley blade free hand was much quicker than sanding, Wire wool and then varying grades of wet & dry to finish.

    No doubt you have a plan to tackle it already! ;)

    Looking forward to seeing your stock natural looking, hope it hasn't got any filler in it.
     
  18. stevemandm

    stevemandm Honorary Member

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    he's dug out a tin of nitromors for starters steve - you going on the meet at grumpy's gaff in a couple of weeks mate ?
     
  19. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    Thanks Steve!

    Yep,plan is to soak in nitromores,scrape it all off with a wallpaper scraper or a blade,sand from 120 up to 800 grit paper,stain and oil.
     
  20. SteveO

    SteveO Top Poster

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    I'm hoping to mate providing nothing happens between now and then! The decision is usually left to the last second as anything can happen here! :(
     

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