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Simple night vision build

Discussion in 'Night Vision Optics and Illumination' started by terry1001, Oct 9, 2014.

  1. Funky Diver

    Funky Diver Donator

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    The beauty of it being ABS is that it's rock solid once it's done ... a nice firm fix too :)

    Also seems like the current flopast fittings (at least the one's I've bought) are a nice snug fit between the slide in components so no further fixing required :thumb:
     
  2. Ooops

    Ooops Active Member

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    Funky how did you heat it up, hot water, oven etc? Equally important how did you hold the hot piece while you worked it?
     
  3. Funky Diver

    Funky Diver Donator

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    I used an electric heat gun. You will need something that generates quite a bit of heat as ABS melting point is around 230 degrees Celcius, so any kind of something that will generate that kind of heat will do. Gas hob in the kitchen, etc would do it.

    It doesn't need to be melting point, but enough to make it malleable.

    So far as holding it, I used me hand lol, but angled it away from the air stream of the heat gun so the heat didn't shoot down the tube on to my hand, then slowly rotated it to give it uniform heat distribution. Once it was soft, I just rammed it onto the scope, lined it up so it was straight and left it to cool :D

    Hope that helps,
    Rich
     
  4. Funky Diver

    Funky Diver Donator

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    Hot water won't be hot enough and I wouldn't use an oven as you will heat the whole part and possible distort the whole tube whilst working it. The heat needs to be localised only on the end you want worked.

    ABS is also quite forgiving, if you balls it up, just reheat it and it will regain it's original shape.
     
  5. Ooops

    Ooops Active Member

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    Good info Funky, many thanks
     
  6. rolly512

    rolly512 Member

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    So what's a good or tourch to use I've tried a couple. But nothing seems to give me much more than 20 yards
     
  7. terry1001

    terry1001 Major Poster

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    If you're only getting 20 yard range it's likely that you have a problem elsewhere, what components did you use? A suitable torch would be one that uses an Oslon Black 850nm ir led and which has zoom and 3 power settings. At the moment I don't have any on sale but there are some on ebay which should be ok.
     
  8. DR2501

    DR2501 Donator

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    As this sticky was made in 2014 have the components not been updated? Just curious as I'm going to have a go at making one at some point. Thanks

    .
     
  9. terry1001

    terry1001 Major Poster

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    I will be updating fairly soon.
     
  10. stoogey

    stoogey Engaging Member

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    37 pages late in but...

    the effio E cams are a better choise for a cheepy, the 960H equivilents are in wide angle the image is clearer but it doesnt see as far as an effio E for the same IR sourse (ir filter still attached on both)..at 50 yards the effio see's but the 960H starts blacking out at the edges and the center is darker (but clearer from noise).

    and for a lightweight cheepy with a zoom t-6 torch fitted with an olsan black @ 1amp (not the newer AS), one of the mini cmos cams ir filter removed will get about 100 yards with an 'average' t-6 zoom torch.

    the totch, theres three types, an AA, a 18650 or a bigger 26650/18650 battery, the 26650 is better but the body isnt 30mm for mountign purposes..so a file ir zip ties required. eather way you can fit in ebay cc cv boards to use as a driver and simply glue in a jack socket inro where the the push button used to be.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3000LM-Mi...ch-/272206355118?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368
    (i didnt buy from these, just to show what torch type)

    these boards seem to do all you need but you need 2series or 7.4v on the batteries to get the best, you could set up for a 12v battery if you like, (it lowers the current draw at the battery end though, as in uses even less lol)
    again this sight is for an image of the board.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-1PC...533002?hash=item3f6bbdaf8a:g:T68AAOSw4shX6Iuu

    with two 18650's or more you can simply add one of these dimmers at the battery pack end and it dims from off to full on http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2A-Motor-...000346?hash=item464c03601a:g:NL8AAOSwIzNXOWRA they run cold at 900mah... usable though. (with a buck booste it has to be 'after' the buck booste from the battery or it'll just turn up as you dim and back off when you dont to keep the voltage constant, if its after or between the buck booste and the led it works fine, the buck booste just limits the upper voltage supplied to the dimmer, and it dims as wanted).

    with most or all step down 'buck' boards as your battery runs down the bulb gets dimmer...(imput lowers and so does the out put) the higher the input voltage the less you'll notice it, but non the less...they dim, one answer is up the input voltage the other is go for parralell batteries.. i've piddled about for a while and series seems better for consumption purposes, mainly because after two cells in parralell you dont quite get the full capacity as advertised, e.g. 2 cells in parralell gives 2x, 3 cells in parralel gives 2.75 times and 4 is a cronic 2.2-2.35 x what ever the capacity, verses useing pwm (pulse width) curcuits that lower the amperage draw at the battery end but give an equivilent 'current' to the led. this way with a e.g. cree red at 900mah at the led end theres only a 350mah actual draw at the battery end..working out the math and sitting waiting with a bulb on the go..pahhh taint worth the myther for charging to go any more than a 2 cell parrallel arangement.(even lighter to use 2 single cell packs, one at a time).
    eather way the light dims per battery loss..i.e. more you use the battery theres a dim effect. with a constant current applied its neglable..but there still.

    another way you can feed the led is with a buck booste board theres about 3 types on ebay, which ever or whatever, you get the amp meter out and turn the boards pot untill the desired amperage is reached at the lead end, after that it literally keeps the voltage constant no matter the state of the battery, there fore theres no dimming efect untill the very end of the battery discharge..
    the down side is once the buck booste goes into booste mode it draws more current from the battery than it dilivers to the led, in short a shorter run time but..the illuminasion is literaly constant. (of use on things like logan lamps espetialy, because after half an hour what you thought was 60 yards is now 45-50 yards...may well acount for why you cant shoot past 40 yards on the lamp sort of thing.(because the light changes the perception as the battery dwindles)
    (in booste mode its quite a lot higher draw on the battery)


    all said and done..horse for courses, if you dont mind clicky modes (erghhhh *******inf click click lol) then the torch drivers are very easy and handy to use, just pop in a battery lol. if you want to dim propperly then...its eather 20 odd quid on a fet flash light driver, or click away..and click again and again and erghhhhhh and then strobe in arabic chinese sos and scremmy ab dabs ..you guesed it, i'm not a fan of clicky modes ..
    pro's and cons are, single battery in the torch it's dun and dusted, verses seperate battery in the pocket as large as yu want and a 0-100% dimmer..

    lastly, when powering the screen, cam and torch, dimmers and some of the ebay boards give noise on the screen..so a seperate battery for the torch does tend to sort out nicely..and some piddly small capacity for the cam and screen.(1amp plus on the torch and what? 80mah on the camera and maybe 100mah on the screen sort of thing. theres some very small 12v packs about.(an 1800mah pack would last ooo about 8-9 hours @ a 200mah draw).


    why bother with any of the above? simply..as with lamping yu wants a dimmer, reason? put your torch/ir illuminator on a fence post switched on and walk away, count a 100 odd foot steps and turn around, what did you instantly see?? red ir illuminatoring!! dim it to the distance you need to see and your average opertunaties become more.. blair away and theres a lotta empty feilds.

    it's worth a thought isnt it? and yu cant see IR can you? lmao not even at 70mph hitting a power slide around the local bad bend and 'ooooo theyve had a new cctv cam! with ir's on' lmao..yes yu can see the bulb!!. same as lazer's..very visable indeed!


    regaurding batteries, the 26650's are larger and harder to sourse a torch boddy.. but, yu actualy get a 4200mah cell(4200-4400 is about all yu can get in that size) with an actual 4 amp in it(the torch boddy has room for cheeper circuit boards to fit inside)...with an 18650 the panasonic ncr 3400's give at least 3 real amps in capacity(there isnt any higher than 3300-3400mah... itsa lie if other wise stated), the hype with the new type is its lighter and gives more power per gram of weight..what ever theyre good and diliver lol.
    next, buying those flat cell chinese packs yu know, black or blue box, throw the charger in the bin, theyre really bad, and fire risks too!! regaurding those crappy flat cells? theyre actually quite good lol when looked after propperly, i.e. fit a balnce leed asap! any pack will need balancing sooner or later, the longer its left the more damaged the week cell gets.
    the 'amperage' i'll put the efferts on 'advertised' is a crock, as in they add every figure they find or go into watt hours lol..basically the 9800mah pack has three 4 amp cells making a '12v' pack..i.e. 4.2v x 3 = 12.6, but as with every other pack on the planet theyre eather a 3.6v cell or 3.7v cell eather way the corect voltage is actualy 3 x 3.6 or 3.7...it just works as a 12v pack, as in when its switched on the batteries sag to 3.7v (untill they run down)...duh dahhh, its a 4 amp pack.(in series you add voltages but the capacity stays as a single series and in parrallel you add the capaciries, as discussed above...) nar then, about these 4 amp cells, from new theyre about 4 amp or 4000mah capacity, a few charges in you may well see 5 amp in them..then it starts to reduce as yu charge them more n more, so..ehhh theyre good at the price, they beet the crap outa any 'fire' batteries lol, ultra fire or what ever, the clues in the name..fire, as in a fire may break out lol..1amp cells refurbished.

    with any li lo life etc battery, if you dont know what your doing use protected cells...or you may well kill a few figuring it out lol.

    getting a box for the batteries is harder than yu think..double shrink rap helps but...eather way keep them dry or you'll get a fire instantly.. seriously! i was testing an open pack one night, i actualy saw the single rain drop go in, 1 second later i'm franticly stripping the scope risking fingers n burns to save the scope.. thats 1 single rain drop in the rong place at the right time!...



    edit..erghh cant edit any more you'll have to suffer the grammer lol...you only have to read one bit, i have to live with every peace lol.
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2016
  11. terry1001

    terry1001 Major Poster

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    I can't edit the original post now but here is the original parts list together with a current suggested list. The bits probably won't be the cheapest option but this thread is really about doing it as simply as possible so that almost anyone can build it. Any questions please post on here.

    E700 camera http://www.sure24.co.uk/kpc-e700pub-...2v-dc-internal £68.34
    Reversing monitor http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-800-480-...item5b05b64e8c £16.99
    12 volt battery http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-6800mA...item3cdc7c7b7c £26.65
    2 way power splitter http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CCTV-Camer...item231f421d6c £1.99
    BNC to phono adapter http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-BNC-MA...item27e0640434 £1.69
    Floplast straight coupler http://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-s...ack-of-5/76761 £3.99 for 5
    Floplast access plug http://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-s...ack-of-5/65881 £3.99 for 5
    Figure 8 clamp http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Figure-of-...item462058f55e £4.89
    Weaver base scope mount for monitor http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25-4mm-1-i...item27e41d3714 5.99
    IR torch with mount http://www.airgunforum.co.uk/forums/...rches-for-sale £38

    Camera and monitor with connectors http://www.sure24.co.uk/kpc-e700-tft-camera-tft5-bundle.html £83.94
    Floplast couplers http://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-solvent-weld-straight-couplers-40-x-40mm-black-5-pack/76761 £4.09
    Floplast caps to take camera http://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-solvent-weld-access-plugs-black-40mm-5-pack/65881 £4.09
    figure 8 mount http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Figure-of...499924?hash=item43f5042b14:g:RAgAAOxyB9RS1ZEx £4.49 this is to fit a 1" scope but you can also get them in 30mm and these usually have inserts to fit 1" as well
    weaver base mounts for torch and monitor fitting http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pc-25-4m...970186?hash=item2a6f6bec0a:g:l9UAAOSwQaJXRAld £3.09
    12 volt batery and charger http://elwirecraft.co.uk/el-product...1800mah-2800mah-or-5000mah-for-el-driver-led/ choose either the 1800mah or 2800mah and a 1 amp charger
    I'm not doing any torches at present but the spec required is a focussing torch with 3 power modes and fitted with an Oslon Black 850nm ir led. You will need batteries and charger for this as well and you should look up the threads on this. Decent named cells (normally going to be 18650) and a charger such as the Nitecore D4. Search on ebay for a UK seller and there's plenty of choice.
    Sure24 do offer various adaptors to fit the E700 to some scopes, it's worth calling them to ask about this especially if you have an MTC with a threaded eyepiece but other scopes are catered for as well. The Floplast is the cheapest option but can be fiddly if you have a scope with a big, knurled focus ring at the eyepiece.
     
  12. BLoBacK

    BLoBacK Engaging Member

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    Nickg22 likes this.
  13. terry1001

    terry1001 Major Poster

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    This will also work with some Hawke scopes. It's not quite as easy as sliding the fitting over the eyepiece but not a big deal.
     
  14. Slipperneave

    Slipperneave Donator

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    Great post Terry I'm new to the forum still finding my way around at the moment I see you are a fellow Suffolk resident. Rod
     
  15. HUNTERMAN

    HUNTERMAN Engaging Member

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    welcome to the forum Slipperneave, i am Suffolk born & bred from Stowmarket,
    though for my sins i live in Essex nr Chelmsford now ,very friendly on here and lots of info available.
    enjoy yourself on here and ask if you need any help
    atb brian
     
  16. Slipperneave

    Slipperneave Donator

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    Great post terry looks like an easy build have you or anyone else on here built one yet interested to see reviews
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2017
  17. terry1001

    terry1001 Major Poster

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    I think that quite a few have built these or ones which have been slightly modified and found them very useful.
     
  18. Esinem

    Esinem Active Member

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  19. terry1001

    terry1001 Major Poster

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    The items on my list are all good quality and proven performance so they are suggested for people who want a good result without problems. It's perfectly feasible to build something which works for very little money and there have been quite a few threads covering this but buying cameras and battery packs from ebay or amazon is a risky business especially for those with no knowledge of this type of work.
    The purpose of this thread is to offer a system for people to build easily at home which will offer performance which matches that of retail offerings.
     
  20. stillburning

    stillburning Active Member

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    Great post Terry, thank you :up:

    All the information on the build in the video is clear and your suggested suppliers gave me the cofidence to have a go at this, there are also some useful comments in the rest of the thread.

    The main problem I had was getting the camera attached to the Hawke Sidewinder 3-12 x 50 scope, in the end I filed a slot out of the floplast tube and then heated it with a hot air gun, it slips over but needs a bit of jiggling to get the camera centered up.

    Despite taking the grubber screw out of the camera I cant get more than an eighth of a turn of the lens but the focus is OK on the crosshairs if not really sharp. With the 16mm lens supplied there is some dark round the edges on the monitor image but thats to be expected, the focus on the target is very clear.

    I used high mounts to get the torch out away from the front of the scope and have screwed the base of the monitor into the mount, I bought the mounts from ANT supplies as I couldnt find a 30mm figure of 8 on ebay.

    I used an old camera case for the battery and cables, strapped on with elastic bands but does the job.

    Did some target shooting at 20m in the garden and very pleased with the accuracy, I'm planning on using this for ambushing rabbits and rats on the areas I have been shooting in the summer so have a good idea of the ranges and hope that in the dark I will be within 20m anyway.

    I have taken a couple of photos in case they are useful for anyone else.



    View attachment 169487 View attachment 169488
     

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