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sharpening stone

Discussion in 'Anything Airgun Related' started by Gray 83, Jan 21, 2014.

  1. Gray 83

    Gray 83 Donator

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    Could anybody recommend a good sharpening stone please.
     
  2. milek

    milek Honorary Member

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    What's your budget Gray and are we talking knives?
     
  3. Tripleteer

    Tripleteer Donator

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  4. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    I've always used the diamond grid sharpening plates for turning tools and knives,can use oil or water on them
     
  5. Gray 83

    Gray 83 Donator

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    I haven't really got a budget in mind, yeah sharpening knives mick and I will be sharpening a couple of axes aswell.
     
  6. milek

    milek Honorary Member

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    The lansky kit that jedclampit has is effective on knives but not sure about axes.
     
  7. Barcelona68

    Barcelona68 Banned

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    Best way to sharpen an axe is with an old mousemat and some fine wet&dry.
     
  8. oaktree

    oaktree Member

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  9. Gray 83

    Gray 83 Donator

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    Thanks for the replies chaps
     
  10. Jed Clampit

    Jed Clampit Posting Addict

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  11. Geordie

    Geordie Donator

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    I've got a Lansky too, great for most knives, but not too good for machetes or swords. Or axes for that matter!:up::up::up:
     
  12. Gray 83

    Gray 83 Donator

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    I haven't seen anything but praise for the lanksy kit so it looks like that's the one to go for
     
  13. DougR

    DougR Busy Member

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  14. 177

    177 Donator

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    What sort of knives are you sharpening and what kind of work are you sharpening for ?

    I ask for two reasons:

    1. you should always get the biggest (longest and/or widest) stone you can

    2. depending on the work you intend doing, you will need to work the edge and finish it differently

    I argued the case for a D2 knife a while ago with someone. He was banging on about cutting rope and some of the cutting tests he had read about. I was saying it could cut rope like a champ and outperform a lot of steels and he disagreed. He showed me one of his knives with a beautifully polished edge. I showed him one of mine, set up on a 600 grit stone and stropped.

    Mine ran circles around his for general work, especially gutting, skinning and butchery - his were better for fine carving.

    He had more sharpening stones, steels and other whatnots than enough but the one thing he didn't have was knowledge of how to apply them to get an appropriate result for the work he was putting his knives to.

    I have a couple of commercial sharpening systems but more often than not I use a simple two sided King waterstone to set the edge and then an old 2" wide leather belt stuck down onto a piece of 2x4 pine and loaded with Solvol Autosol.

    Set the edge up on 600 grit, strop half a dozen times each side.

    It will pop hairs off your arm, slice fine paper and is still aggressive enough to make very short work of butchery, rope and other stuff.

    A lot of sharpening guides encourage you to go through far too many labour intensive stages IMHO

    Also be advised that a lot of diamond stones are very easy to lift the particles off.

    For ease of sharpening a longer stone is infinitely more efficient and safer to use.

    Convex blades take a bit of practice to sharpen well on flat stones but Scandi ground knives or anything with a secondary bevel is a piece of cake.

    If you don't want to throw a lot of money at it you'd be hard pressed to better a 600 grit waterstone and a strop.

    Strop often, only go back to the stone when you ding the edge out. If you work the knife until you need to use the stone you waited far too long and went past the stage where a strop could have saved you the trouble.

    Sorry if this is teaching you how to suck eggs :)
     
  15. Gray 83

    Gray 83 Donator

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    It will be mainly two knives being sharpened a lock knife which will be used for general work use cutting rope,banding etc. The other is a fixed blade knife which will be used for gutting,skinning etc.
     
  16. dengiebob

    dengiebob Active Member

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    hmmmm not sure guys i have done a fare bit of blacksmithing i have my own forge in my workshop and have made a few hunting/skining knives i own about half a dozen natural stones these have been collected from car boot sales or off the bay some i paid a fiver for when the stall holder did not know what he had!!. but a good stone on the bay you could pay up to fifty quid or more depending on the grade and quality of the stone my finishing stone is a Victorian cut throat razor stone which i would not swap even for a chunk of gold the same size! avoid anything man made thats if you really want a sharp knife its a skill in using a stone but once you have got the hang of it,it then becomes easy. And if your choosing a new blade try and avoid cheap stainless steel blades yes the might look nice but they never hold there edge i would go for a Sheffield steel blade yes they go rusty if left wet but they will hold there edge ten times longer than a stainless item. in my pocket when i go hunting is a ww2 british army jack knife best blade i have ever owned its within uk law and is all you need in a blade you can still buy them new still packed in the ww2 grease for about fifteen quid little black folding knife with a small spike and a tin opener what more do you need????????????
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2014
  17. 177

    177 Donator

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    If that's what you're doing a simple solution is all that is needed.

    I have Lansky and Spyderco sharpening systems, among others, but I keep using the stone/strop method because it's so effective.

    The ceramic sharpeners are a super-quick way of bringing the edge up but if you need to set the edge to begin with you really need a 600 or even a 400 grit stone.

    If you go with a diamond stone trat it gently - a lot of people bear down on the blade as they pass it over a diamond stone and end up ruining it when they lift the particles out from the adhesive or base...

    I use my knives a lot and they rarely see a stone once the edge has been established. A strop has to be one of the most underrated and least understood method of keeping an edge fettled.
     
  18. 177

    177 Donator

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    Modern stainless steels are outstanding - the trouble with them is they get lumped in with the "stainless is crap" mentality which mainly originates from the widespread use of badly heat treated poor knife stainless like 440A and 440B. Anything that says 440 or Toledo stainless or similar is marketing speak for crappy steel, usually poorly heat treated. If it was good they would give it its proper name.

    Put a knife made from well heat treated ATS34, 154CM, CPM154CM, 12C27, BG42, S30V or similar in my hands and I'm a very happy bunny.

    I've said this before elsewhere but one of the biggest problems with stainless knives is that most people don't know how to sharpen them properly. The trouble with some stainless is that it doesn't actually feel sharp when, in fact, it is.

    12C27 is a prime example - it never feels particularly sharp and it's always a surprise when it pops hair off your arm or slices thin paper curls because it just doesn't seem to have the bite of certain other steels when doing the old 'thumb test'.

    You could sharpen a 12C27 stainless, a D2 and an O1 carbon knife on exactly the same Spyderco or Lansky sharpening system and the 12C27 knife won't feel anywhere near as sharp as the other two, but it will slice like a demon in use.

    Stainless suffers from a 40+ year historical backlog of crappy 440 knives coupled with many owners inability to sharpen it.

    The fact of the matter is that many of today's stainless steels can out-slice some of the traditional carbon/tool steels.

    It took Skoda a long time to shake off a bad reputation - it's about time good stainless knives were judged on their own merits and not the cheap crap we were all being sold for decades.

    Personally I never rated the army jack knife - the marlin spike ruins a secure grip on the knife and makes it uncomfortable for long periods of use and, in my experience, they can be a bit hit or miss on whether they offer good or very poor edge retention. Maybe I've just had some bad examples. I'd take an Opinel over one any day.
     
  19. dengiebob

    dengiebob Active Member

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    i will agree with you on that. there are fine stainless blades out there if i can work out how to get a picture on here (im not good with tech!!) i will take some pictures of my first go at a blade which started life as a very old wood chisel which was topped off with a deer antler handle with a disk of walrus tusk all done on the anvil with charcoal as fuel hardened and tempered
     
  20. tomsteebs

    tomsteebs Donator

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    Cheers for the link, going near aldi today so will pick one up, not a fan of those ceramic v sharpener type ones that I keep getting for free etc...
     

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