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S410 valve problem

Discussion in 'Anything Airgun Related' started by Hoodster, May 2, 2014.

  1. Hoodster

    Hoodster Engaging Member

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    Had to buy and replace my stem valve as my old one was leaking air trouble I'm having is not being able to get the new valve to seal I've rushed air into the cylinder to try build up pressure I've fired the rifle while filling but still the air gushes out. Should I buy and try another valve stem or am I not doing something right ?
     
  2. cloverleaf

    cloverleaf Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    I've had this problem a few times before; having done the same as you (rifle cocked; blast of air, dry-firing to try and seal the valve) to no avail. First inspect the sealing face of the valve and its seat for damage or defects. If you find any in the valve head, replace the valve. If you find any issues with the seat they can be successfully lapped with Autosol to regain their ability to seal.


    The method I use as as follows:

    Cut a piece of 6mm OD / 4mm ID plastic windscreen washer tube to 30-50mm length and push it over the exhaust valve head to a depth of around 4-5mm (a soak in hot water can help here). Clean the valve sealing face and shaft, as well its seat in the exhaust valve housing and the bore the valve stem runs in - you obviously don't want any contamination as this could cause additional damage / make the problem worse.

    Smear a little oil on the valve stem and put several small spots of Autosol on the sealing face of the valve, so that a shallow amount covers maybe 1/4 - 1/3 the area of the sealing face (you don't need a lot). Insert the valve into the valve housing. Either put the valve housing / striker guide rail in a (padded) vice and gently chuck the washer tube in a pistol drill, or use a pillar drill and hold the exhaust valve freehand.

    Spin the drill at maybe 1500-2000 rev/min, gently attempting to hold everything concentric and applying gentle pressure to the parts to keep the valve and seat in contact. I do this for 30-40 seconds. Stop the drill and remove the valve; clean everything thoroughly - valve seat, throat, stem bore and entire valve.

    Drop the valve back into the housing and holding the assembly vertically with the valve head facing upwards, tap the end of the stem repeatedly - if the valve falls back under its own weight you're all good, if it sticks you've probably got a bit of abrasive in there - clean and repeat until the valve will consistently fall under its own weight. If you feel the need lube the valve stem, then chuck it all back together and test!

    I did one recently that wouldn't seal using the method you've tried; lapped the valve and when filling slowly the valve leaked far less at low pressure, sealed at 60bar and is holding air perfectly now :)

    It's worth noting that on the several guns I've done this to, damage to the valve seat hasn't been obvious during inspection (which is partially hampered by the depth to which it's buried in the valve housing) but lapping the valve has always sorted the problem. I've seen seats with patches of oxidation (which haven't always caused a leak) that have cleaned up well with a bit of lapping.

    Obviously significant damage would probably require more serious work or a new exhaust valve housing, assuming your rifle is the current iteration and hence parts are still available.

    HTH, good luck sorting it out ;)
     
  3. Hoodster

    Hoodster Engaging Member

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    Thank you as always in depth and very helpful :)


     
  4. mark112

    mark112 Engaging Member

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    Hi,

    You may also have a slow fill restrictor fitted somewhere on your charging setup. You can usually temporarily remove this to get a better 'blast' of air during initial filling. Obviously cock the rifle during filling also.

    Mark
     
  5. cloverleaf

    cloverleaf Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    No problem always a pleasure to help out a fellow enthusiast :)

    Mark makes a good point about the bottle too; probably worth trying this before reaching for the abrasives, although it sounds like something isn't right somewhere..
     
  6. Hoodster

    Hoodster Engaging Member

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    I just purchased a snap on multi fit kit for my air tank it had a slow fill restrictor in it I removed it and managed to get the valve to seal now, so nice call mate thank you. :cool:
     
  7. mark112

    mark112 Engaging Member

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    Glad it was the easy option Hoodster. Mark
     

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