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Rig Run Down

Discussion in 'Archery' started by nav2009, Feb 9, 2019.

  1. nav2009

    nav2009 Donator

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    Just thought I'd give members a run down of my archery gear and it's purpose. Compound bows are complex machines which need tuning for draw weight, draw length, arrow rest tuning, D-loop tuning, sight tuning etc.
    Cam tuning
    First off we see the cam on the lower part of my bow limbs. On there are settings from A to P. There are two sets of settings the outer setting is where the string will stop (draw stop) the inner setting is where the string will pull to before it reaches your draw length, both have to be the same and in my case it's letter J which is 25.5 inches.
    cam.jpg

    The Limbs

    The Limbs are adjustable with the allen key bolt you see at the end of the limb, on my bow this is adjustable so that you can adjust your draw weight from 45 to 70LB. Mine is set at 53LB which you set by following the guide in the manual.

    limb.jpg limb bolts.jpg

    The Arrow rest
    The arrow rest is a piece of equipment where your arrow rests while you take your shot. There are three types, a biscuit rest like the one below where your arrow sits in the middle of a circular group of bristles, a blade rest where the arrow sits on a simple blade or a drop away rest where rest drops away from the arrow upon release. I have all three and prefer the biscuit rest. The rest has to be set up perfect so that the arrow is released perfect from the bow and you'll see those adjustment knobs on the below picture. Cost is about £50 for a biscuit, £40 for a blade and £25-£100 for a drop away.

    arrow rest.jpg

    The front sight
    This is a Tru glow 5 pin sight. Top pin is used at 10 meters but bottom four are not in use at the moment till I start shooting longer distance. You need to be paying at least £70 for a decent sight. Rear site is one I built myself from a cheap sight and allows me to shoot without a peep sight.

    front site 2.jpg
    rear.jpg

    D-loop
    A D-loop is placed on the string where the arrow nock fits to the string and is held there with serving string. This stops the D-loop from nipping the arrow nock during release. The D-loop has to be fitted with precision and square to the arrow which requires spirit levels and a bow vice which I've also acquired. You then need a release aid to fire the bow if you use the D-loop system. You can fire finger style but I wouldn't recommend it with high powered bows.

    dloop.jpg

    Rod glide
    Not an absolute must but makes the bows buss cables running more efficient. This Saunders hyperglide does the trick for £20

    glide.jpg

    Release aid
    I have two, the Truball short n sweet is my choice, £60 and the other was £40. Don't skimp on release aids, you need a reliable aid. They are strapped to your wrist, they clamp onto the D-loop and then you just pull the trigger to loose the arrow.

    release aid.jpg

    Arrows
    You can't use cheap arrows made of fiberglass on high powered bows, they will just shatter and are dangerous. I use Maximal edge carbon at £60 per dozen with blazer vanes and nocks, their stiffness (spine) must match your bow power which in my case is 500 spine and they must be cut an inch longer than your draw length. There are an whole host of different arrows ranging from £3 each to £20 each, you get what you pay for basically.
    Bow bag
    I paid £40 for mine which holds the bow, arrows and accessories in different pockets. You need one for the same reason you need a gun bag.

    bag.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2019
    foxtrott, QuoVadis69, Gunfun and 3 others like this.
  2. PumpnGun

    PumpnGun Donator

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    How far they've come since I was a kid, almost unrecognisable :thumb:

    Ray
     
  3. mikeyhall1

    mikeyhall1 Pepe Le Pew

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    Wow I never knew there was so much to it!

    Very interesting Roger, thank you.

    Especially as I’m now becoming interested in giving it a go.
     
    foxtrott likes this.
  4. foxtrott

    foxtrott Big Poster

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    Hi ive had a hoyt compound bow with the same set up the true glow pin sight and biscuit rest etc but i shot with a glove and no D with a peep sight used to love it people who have never used one would be surprised how accurate they are.
     
  5. nav2009

    nav2009 Donator

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    I'd like to eventually end up with a Hoyt, they are among the best bows out there but you're talking a minimum of £600 to a couple of grand. My PSE Stinger is a good starter bow at £210 for the bare bow and it has an ATA rating of 316 fps where as an Hoyt will be a better rating of 340 fps and shoot super smooth. PSE also make more advanced bows which are much more expensive as do Mathews, Hoyt, Bowtech, Bear, along with a few other top brands. Very much like air rifle brands where you get what you pay for but you usually find the top bow makers don't really make a bad bow like in air rifles.
    All those brands including mine are made in the USA and most of them carry a lifetime warranty so if anyone wants to get into archery stick to those brands.
    The stuff to keep away from are the cheap Chinese stuff with no warranty such as Topoint, EK, Monster, etc. There is no warranty backup or after sales support from those brands. Just don't go there.
     
    foxtrott likes this.
  6. foxtrott

    foxtrott Big Poster

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    Agreed pal merlin archery do some nice bear packages have you a pick of the sight you have instead of a peep cheers
     
  7. nav2009

    nav2009 Donator

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    Got my arrows, my sights and kisser buttons from Merlin. Good place. Using a peep slows your string down by about 8fps and the kisser another 5fps so I don't use a peep for that reason. My rear sight is just a bracket from a front site placed on the bow in reverse with a metal pin bolted to it. It gives you about 12 inch between the front and rear sight so it's like shooting a pistol where you align front to rear. You can buy rear sights but they are £150 so I made my own


    Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk
     
    foxtrott likes this.
  8. foxtrott

    foxtrott Big Poster

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    Oh so its not on the string you line it up though the string
     
  9. nav2009

    nav2009 Donator

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    A lot of people who don't use peeps just look down the right side of the string (right handed archer) and align their eye with right edge of the string and sight. The rear sight I fitted you do the same but instead of aligning the edge of the string and the front sight you align all three so that the front sight appears in the narrow gap between string and rear sight. Moving your head from side to side will make the front sight disappear so it works just like a peep but it's not on the string.

    Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk
     
    foxtrott likes this.
  10. foxtrott

    foxtrott Big Poster

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    Ah i see ive tryed using no rear sight or peep but is harder to judge elevation
     
  11. nav2009

    nav2009 Donator

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    My rear sight is set up so it's elevation pin is dead level with my top foresight pin. This keeps your head in the most consistent place because its exact for both H and V. You align the rear sight to the foresight from side to side then up and down just like iron sites on a rifle or a pistol. The peeps work OK but slow the string down and can twist around and need a retaining lead fastened to the bow. Not my thing

    Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk
     
    foxtrott likes this.
  12. N.Vodden

    N.Vodden Member

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    Nice rig :) If you are looking for an accurate and repeatable shot, ditch the whisker biscuit rest and shoot off a blade or if you prefer a captive rest try a dropaway. They are far more consistent and reliable. If you shoot a blade, i highly recommend Launchtec synthetic blades - they don't corrode or bend.

    Regarding the peep, the weight will slow the arrow down by sub 10fps but that much speed loss is negligible at the ranges you will be shooting a bow at, the difference of a few clicks on your sight tape at your longest distances and the consistency and accuracy you gain far outweighs the loss. Peep twist can be corrected by adding/removing twist to the string. You need a bowpress to do that but if you don't have one your local archery shop can help.

    If the arrow speed loss bothers you, you can compensate for it by adding 'speed nocks' - brass nocks crimped onto the bowstring a few inches from the cams. The extra weight in that position adds momentum as the string is reeled in by the cams and actually produces extra speed.

    It's trial and error, add 1 to each end and chrono, then another pair and chrono etc until you find the sweet spot where adding more starts to slow down. Cover them in heatshrink for a pro look ;)

    Good choice on the HyperGlide as well. I put one on my old Bowtech Guardian and Commander and they make a total difference to the draw cycle, much smoother and less resistance.
     
    foxtrott likes this.
  13. QuoVadis69

    QuoVadis69 Donator

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    Very interesting insight, much more technical than I would've imagined. Thanks for sharing. :up:
     
  14. Drake267

    Drake267 Keyboard Hero

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    07CA4C71-7B33-4378-BB86-8FB181BDE110.jpeg E39606ED-9BAC-4942-BF2E-83CE76CDEB5D.jpeg CB0CDF94-0E3B-4165-967A-B0F0C0BCAABC.jpeg And just to show the difference in types of kit here is my target compound bow. The ops is a more versatile kit that in the states would be used for hunting with the biscuit rest and pin sight. Used over here for target, 3D and recreational use. Mine is a more dedicated target rig. Bit heavy to carry round a 3D course really. Used with a peep sight as it’s needed to look through to focus the scope, simply line up the peep with the scope onto the target. Much more like a rifle sighting system. Though in practice not that easy! Not yet anyway.

    Mybo Origin in lizard green, set at 50lbs draw weight, £800
    Shibuya carbon sight and Mybo ten zone scope, peep sight on the string. £300 ish
    Spot Hogg infinite edge blade arrow rest £70
    Mybo certo long rod and side rods, QR attachments, mybo side stabiliser mount £220 ish.
    Hoyt wrist sling £20
    Extra rod weights.£12
    Truball wrist release £45 though this will be upgraded to a thumb release, £200
    Easton ACC arrows, 8 of these, £14 each
    Bow bag £40
    Arrow case £25
    Hoyt field quiver £58
    Mybo sureshot target bag £49
    Arm guard £15
    Sundries, string wax, arrow lube, bow stand, targets £30

    This is pretty much what the sale of my fx impact paid for. Great hobby, I’ll be getting a field recurve bow to shoot 3D at a local club to me so will put that up once it’s complete. Totally different set up and much cheaper. Just as much if not more fun though!
     
    nav2009, N.Vodden and foxtrott like this.

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