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Remington Express strip-down

Discussion in 'Stickies Only' started by webfranglais, Oct 30, 2015.

  1. webfranglais

    webfranglais Active Member

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    Warning.
    I do not accept any responsibility for any damage during strip down. This is purely a guide to how I proceeded and is in no way an official tutorial, you will be undertaking any strip down of the Remington Express at your own risk.


    I will start this strip-down at the point where the stock has been removed as it is the same as most other air rifles, you remove both stock screws near the breech and the two on the trigger guard and remove the stock.

    Once stock is removed, you must tie the cocking arm to the compression tube to stop it moving as this may damage the piston liner.
    105923.jpg


    To remove the trigger unit and the spring, spring guide, piston and piston lining, you first have to remove the safety. This is done using the following method.

    1), Cock the trigger by pushing up on the sear in front of the trigger unit with a screwdriver (or similar) and at the same time pull back on the hook at the rear of the trigger unit until you hear it click into place Fig 1.
    105924.jpg


    2,) At the rear of the compression tube you will see a small pin (bottom left), this pin has to be removed. To remove this use something pointed and press it against the pin as it runs through the hole on the side of the compression tube at the rear of the trigger unit and push the pin towards the back until you can see about 1 or 2mm of the pin sticking out Fig 2.
    105925.jpg


    3), Now place your thumb over the hole and pull the pin out the rest of the way, you will feel the short pin hit your thumb, this stops the safety spring unit flying out Fig 3.
    105926.jpg


    4), Turn the compression tube over and tap it onto a towel to catch the two pins and spring, you should now have 2 short pins, 1 long pin and a short small spring Fig 4.
    105928.jpg


    5), Now rotate back and forth the safety catch and pull at the same time, the safety should pull out quite easily. If the safety spring does not come out at the same time, you can get it out with a small screwdriver Fig 5 & Fig 6.
    105929.jpg
    105930.jpg


    6), It is worth un-cocking the trigger at this point by pulling the trigger, you do not have to do this, but you run the risk of losing the pin on top of the trigger unit that holds the sear down and stops it hitting the inner wall of the compression tube, un-cocking lets the sear touch the pin and keeps it under pressure, if cocked it just falls out Fig 7.
    105931.jpg

    7), Now you can remove the trigger unit in the same way you would for many other rifles, put in spring compressor and push out the two pins and slowly unwind the compressor.

    8), Remove the spring and guide. Now you can unscrew the bolt holding the barrel to the compression tube at the breech, release the cocking leaver from its bonds holding it to the compression tube and gently remove the cocking foot from the piston and compression tube Fig 8.
    105932.jpg

    8), Gently remove piston and liner with a flat head screwdriver and you are done.

     

    Attached Files:

    Balders and Sean110 like this.
  2. flatrajectory

    flatrajectory Keyboard Hero

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    Excellent job. Should be made a sticky.
     
  3. webfranglais

    webfranglais Active Member

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    Many thanks.

    I will have to make an addendum to this guide as I have the newer safety, on the older ones there is no pin holding in the two little pins and spring. On the older ones the first small pin is actually a threaded grub screw and is inserted a certain number of turns, this is what holds it together.
     
  4. Jimmypie

    Jimmypie Pffft , Pop , Twang , Bang

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    Excellent , the Remington is going to be my winter project , thanks for sharing !
     
  5. webfranglais

    webfranglais Active Member

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    My pleasure.
     
  6. Jackroadkill

    Jackroadkill Donator

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    Done.
     
  7. webfranglais

    webfranglais Active Member

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    Thanks.

    Here is a pic of what can happen if you try and break the barrel or cock the rifle out of the stock.

    I removed the dents in the piston liner (as seen in Fig 9) by inserting the correct sized socket from a socket set to fit the inside of the liner and tapped it gently with a hammer until it could pass the dents. It worked well although it left scars. I will be replacing this part at some point but it does not seem to hinder performance.

    105938.jpg
     
  8. webfranglais

    webfranglais Active Member

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    Here is a pdf version for those who prefer to print off and follow.
     
  9. webfranglais

    webfranglais Active Member

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    Older Model Safety

    2), If the retaining pin shown in Fig 2 is not present you have the older model Fig 10. This uses a grub screw as one of the shorter pins seen in Fig 4. To remove the grub screw, spring and short pin, you must undo the grub screw with a 2mm allen key Fig 11, counting the amount of turns it takes to disengage. This is important when reassembling the safety as too many turns and the rifle will not cock and too few and the mech will go out of position and the safety will not work and may also make it impossible to cock the rifle.

    105989.jpg

    105990.jpg
     
  10. webfranglais

    webfranglais Active Member

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    Also, I must give my thanks to Lyn Lewington whose tutorial in Airgun Shooter (May 2015) was used as inspiration for this guide.
     
  11. webfranglais

    webfranglais Active Member

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  12. digitalxspace

    digitalxspace Member

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    Excellent guide, i just bought this rifle:)
     
  13. webfranglais

    webfranglais Active Member

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  14. eggfoo

    eggfoo Newbie

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    Thanks for this. Had mine (new) out the stock today to polish the sears in the trigger. Was going to take a look at the piston washer as I've heard these can show factory damage. I gave up when I could not find the safety grub screw, but all is now clear thanks to your guide and I have seen the pin so know how to do it now. Mine shot terrible groups out the box with some Remington pellets but I dug out some .177 JSB Exact and these are grouping very well on my 20 yard range with a decent scope. They are 4.52 mm but I've ordered sample packs in 4.50 and 4.51 to see how they group, along with some Webley express and bisley mags. So far I'm impressed by the grouping but it is pellet fussy.
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2016
  15. eggfoo

    eggfoo Newbie

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    By the way. There was a ragged flap of fine plastic on the moulding line on the inside of the exit hole in the foresight which was sending pellets all over place from new. I only found it when I was removing the foresight but it's worth knowing if you are buying one.
     
    Gary Jones likes this.
  16. webfranglais

    webfranglais Active Member

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  17. webfranglais

    webfranglais Active Member

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    Thanks for the compliment. I am glad it helped.
     
  18. sidney

    sidney Big Poster

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    Im having some trouble fitting Tinbums maxi kit to mine.
    In the above picture, in the piston there is what looks like a top hat. Is that meant to come out when fitting the kit? I can't make it move at all, but that, along with the new longer spring and top hat supplied with the kit, make the rifle impossible to reassemble.
    The new spring is a good 3 inches longer than the old one.
    Help!

    Cheers, Sid
     
  19. Tinbum

    Tinbum Delusions of adequacy

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    If you'd contacted me it would have been easier, but....

    As per the description, the supplied spring is an export power one. I mark that in bold, put extra bits in the description telling people this, but still every day I get at least one email telling me the spring is longer than the one in the gun.:rolleyes:
    If you are in the UK it will be longer and far more powerful than the one you currently have. It will probably need shortening to stay at sub 12, but the spring tips video on the website will help with this.

    Mail me a photo of te "top hat" you have in the piston. There should be nothing in there when fitting.:)
     
  20. sidney

    sidney Big Poster

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    If you look at the photo (fig 9), follow the slot in the piston towards the piston seal, you'll see what looks like a metal top hat. The piston liner sits over it during normal operation. That's the bit I'm on about. Is that meant to come out?
    I knew the spring would be slightly longer, but wasn't expecting 3-4 inches tbh, especially as the original spring wasn't under powered.
    As usual, I've probably missed something glaringly obvious!
    Many thanks TB.:up:
     
    Wesley87 likes this.

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