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Refurbing a stock...advice please.

Discussion in 'Anything Airgun Related' started by BunnyBeware, May 11, 2012.

  1. BunnyBeware

    BunnyBeware Banned

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    As above. I've just bought a BSA Superten and it's in need a little bit TLC. I spoke with John Bowkett today and it's heading down for a blueprint in a couple of weeks. In the meantime i'm looking at refurbishing the stock as there are a few minor dings on it.

    My queries are;

    What's the best material to use to rub out the scratches...sand paper, fine steel wool or something else?

    Do i have to remove all varnish/oil from the stock to achieve an even finish or just the areas required?

    Which varnish/oil should i use to treat the stock once rubbing down is complete?

    If i just rub down the areas required will the varnish/oil look different to the rest of the stock or will it blend in un-noticably?

    Is there anything that i've missed out that i should be doing?

    Thanks in advance :)
     
  2. toytown

    toytown Honorary Member

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    you will have to remove it all mate varnishes and oils are oil based so they wont take to the original surface without keying it first and the areas taken back will always be lighter unless your a master at blowing inn., as far as scratches i just sand them out if they arnt too deep. if they are deep then sand them the best you can and the dampen the area and the timber should swell and reform.

    when sanding always go with the grain and use P8O first and then go over again with fine paper. a really nice finish is a dark Danish Oil, ive done a few stocks with it and am in the middle of a repairing a Webley Exocet stock that i have just first coated.
     
  3. hounded

    hounded Honorary Member

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    How bad are the scratches matey ? If you can post some pictures of the said stock damage ie the scratches it will be easier to advise from there :)
     
  4. BunnyBeware

    BunnyBeware Banned

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    Cheers H. It's mostly very small dents that would hopefully steam out though there is 1 fairly deep scratch about an inch long that would probably have to be filled as sanding it out would i think be very noticable. Any advice on fillers?

    By the way...it's BSA Superten BBK mk 3 i think so if anyone knows whether it's an oil or a varnish?
     
  5. hounded

    hounded Honorary Member

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    You will be suprised how deep an indentation you can steam out with a bit of patience .
     
  6. cloverleaf

    cloverleaf Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    Beech or walnut is the all important question ;)
     
  7. BunnyBeware

    BunnyBeware Banned

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    It's a beech stock :)
     
  8. BunnyBeware

    BunnyBeware Banned

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    I'll try get a few pics on tomorrow...just heading out with the 97k to pop some bunnies ;)
     
  9. cloverleaf

    cloverleaf Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    In that case I'd strip the whole thing with Nitro Mors, steam out the dents, sand it with progressively finer grades of paper on a small rubber block (freehand in the curvy bits) and finish it. Varnish doesn't take well to spot repairs so IMO you're best off refinishing the whole lot.

    As regards the finish, oil is more forgiving and easier to repair in the future however it takes a while to get done. Varnish is quicker but you have to get it right first time and as above it's a pain to repair if it gets damaged. Traditionally beech stocks are varnished and walnut is oiled ;)
     
  10. highland chief

    highland chief Donator

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    hi mate

    beech is quite soft, dents will steam out, but defo stick to oil, as above.

    cheers

    gus
     
  11. cloverleaf

    cloverleaf Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    Just to add, you'll want to stain it before oiling or it will remain very light ;)
     
  12. BunnyBeware

    BunnyBeware Banned

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    Thanks for all the excellent advice guys. I'll get some pics on tomorrow. As i said, the dents aren't bad and would hopefully steam out. It's just the 1 scratch that i'm concerned about.
     
  13. 1961nuffield

    1961nuffield Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    Tru oil gives a nice finish and is quick to apply.

    John
     
  14. shepp

    shepp Engaging Member

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    If you stain it then make it two shades darker than you want it, you will be surprises how much it will lighten when sealed and oiled.
     
  15. BunnyBeware

    BunnyBeware Banned

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    Hey guys. I've done a bit of sanding and steaming and it's all going well thus far. I'm just about to hit it with the Nitromors to remove the rest of the varnish.

    I'm looking to achieve a dark so which stains would you recommend to darken the stock before applying the finish which will most probably be an oil of some sort? :)
     
  16. hounded

    hounded Honorary Member

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    When you say dark how dark do you want ? For a nice dark finish I've used ronseal dark oak stain and it still shows the grain nicely defined when oiled .For something of a medium darkness birchwood casey walnut stain works a treat .
     
  17. highland chief

    highland chief Donator

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    hi mate

    i just used colron deep mahogany wood dye on my superstar then 10 coats of tru-oil, it looks amazing, the colron will not raise the grain, but just make sure you lightly rub with 0000 wire wool in between coats of the oil.

    cheers

    gus
     
  18. BunnyBeware

    BunnyBeware Banned

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    You got any pics mate? :)
     
  19. highland chief

    highland chief Donator

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    PM your email addy mate

    cheers

    gus
     
  20. BunnyBeware

    BunnyBeware Banned

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    Is this just the typical type stain that you'd find in B&Q?

    I think i'm looking for a deep mahogany finish. :)
     

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