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Re-building Feinwerkbau 300s?

Discussion in 'Anything Airgun Related' started by Wynne G Oldman, Apr 3, 2014.

  1. Wynne G Oldman

    Wynne G Oldman Engaging Member

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    A question for the experts. I will be stripping down my Feinwerkbau 300S and fitting a repair kit http://foest.eu/index.php?language=en&main_page=product_info&products_id=39 using these links as my guide. I am not 100% clear on whether the piston should be lubricated, or not. I've asked Feinwerkbau directly, and a Sales Lady said that the spring, piston buffer and piston should be lightly lubricated, but with all due respect, she is a sales person, and not an engineer. Is there anyone on here that knows for sure whether the piston in this rifle should be lubricated, or not, and if so, what with? I have bought a tube of Feinwerkbau Special grease.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nimz5d8RERQ


    http://www.**************/showthread.php?545563-Inside-the-Feinwerkbau-Model-300s
     
  2. Jackroadkill

    Jackroadkill Donator

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    Yes, a light lubrication will be fine.
     
  3. Wynne G Oldman

    Wynne G Oldman Engaging Member

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    Thanks Jack. Here's a link that should work to the article that seems to be censored on this forum. Perhaps because it links to another forum of a similar name. If I've broken any rules, I apologise.

    http://lincs-hft-club.co.uk/index.php?/topic/1692-feinwerkbau-model-300s-strip-down-guide/

    The reason that I ask as to whether the piston should be lubricated, or not is that this chap, who seems to know what he's talking about, says that the 300S piston is designed to run without lubricant. The trouble is, who do I believe?
     
  4. harryholic

    harryholic Active Member

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    I believe its correct that they can, and some recommend them to run dry - but this was probably as much to do with the potential for old fashioned lubricants effecting the old seals, and not really being as good as modern types. The engineering quality is top end, and nothing is stressed heavily in a standard state of tune.

    My 300 was rebuilt with a tiny amount as an added precaution, its 40 years old, and had a hard life so tolerances wouldn't be as perfect as when it was new, and runs no issue.
     
  5. Wynne G Oldman

    Wynne G Oldman Engaging Member

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    Thanks Harry. I've sent another email to Feinwerkbau for clarification.
     
  6. DUNKS

    DUNKS Big Poster

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    I think lube is OK. I have serviced a couple of these guns and just could not bring myself to assemble them dry and clean.
    BUT WHEN THEY SAY LIGHT THEY DO MEAN LIGHT LUBE I used moly paste and then polished it all out in the comp chamber.
     
  7. Wynne G Oldman

    Wynne G Oldman Engaging Member

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    I have sent a rather grovelly email to Feinwerkbau, requesting a copy of the factory service manual for my 300S. You never know. :D
     
  8. wonky donky

    wonky donky Donator

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    If your going to lubricate a 300s piston use Feinwerkbau special Grease & use it Very Very sparingly, the use of lubricant in these area is for assembly purposes only..........be warned, the special grease will diesel if over used.


    You won't have any difficulty servicing the rifle, one area that may sometimes be a bit stubborn to remove are the 2 pins the sled slides on once the "E" clips have been removed. The factory way of removing stubborn pins is to lift the rear of the sled, once the recoil lug has been removed, putting tension on the pins. then tap the rear of the sled & the pins will move forward.

    Upon assembly it's important to check the safety mechanism that holds the piston back when the loading lever is open actually works as it should. It comprises of a horse shoe shaped piece that has a slot in it.
    When assembled properly it slides under tension from a spring lever held by a pin. there's a small pin that fits under the sprung lever the loading lever presses against when closed. You can manually operate this & see it working if you look down inside the action from the rear when the trigger assembly is out of the rifle.

    Should you find yourself needing any other parts for your 300s I probably have the largest stock of 300 spares anywhere in the UK. Ratchets often break!

    Hope this helps in addition to the other information you have.
     
  9. 18 Wheeler

    18 Wheeler Busy Member

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    Any lube in the cylinder is unlikely to stay were you put it for long given the metal piston ring.

    Why would you lube the piston buffer? It doesn't contact the cylinder side walls. I'd ignore any advice from someone who recommends lubing the buffer, it suggests they don't have a clue as you suggest in the quote above.

    Follow Wonky Donky's advice. There is no need to wet lube inside the piston assembly.

    These guns were designed to run dry for a reason. Lubricant viscosity changes with temperature, and hence could affect performance, running dry removes/reduces this variable.

    When rebuilding a mod.150 I tried a few things and settled on burnishing moly (Dri-Slide) into the cylinder walls and piston , plus a tiny amount of Moly grease on the bearing faces of the spring. A pea-sized blob of grease, half on each spring end, this had no performance effect but did cut down on post-shot spring resonance. HTH
     
  10. Wynne G Oldman

    Wynne G Oldman Engaging Member

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    Great stuff. Thanks very much for the advice Gents, much appreciated. Wonky Donky, I think that I came across some of your advice when I was Googling this very issue, and it's good to know that you have parts. I will be sure to contact you if I need any, thanks again.

    So just to be clear, it's perfectly OK to re-assemble the piston without any lubrication? This would be my preferred method, after thoroughly polishing everything, or is it best to apply a very small amount of Feinwerkbau Special Grease?
     
  11. wonky donky

    wonky donky Donator

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    I myself would not polish anything provided all looked ok. The lady you contacted was probably refering to the lip on the buffer that fits into the recess in the piston when she said lubricate the buffer. This is good advice but use so little that it's not visible, you can also use silicon oil...........LESS THAN THIS AMOUNT, a lot less in fact. It's just to ease the buffer into the recess. Apologies for the dirty hands!

    It won't hurt to use 18Wheelers method for spring lubrication done very sparingly. I'm not in favor of using grease in match rifles because not only can it cause inconsistency for various reasons but it will also pick up dirt & other unwanted debry over time & start acting like an abrasive.

    It's surprising how much dirt gets in there.
     
  12. Wynne G Oldman

    Wynne G Oldman Engaging Member

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    Thanks again. By polish, I just meant make sure that everything is spotlessly clean and degreased, not getting a buffing wheel on it. I now feel confident that I'll get it right when I rebuild the rifle. The parts should arrive sometime this week, I can't wait. :D
     
  13. DUNKS

    DUNKS Big Poster

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  14. Wynne G Oldman

    Wynne G Oldman Engaging Member

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    I have a feeling that it may be similar, if not worse. :D
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2014
  15. Wynne G Oldman

    Wynne G Oldman Engaging Member

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    Well, the repair kit turned up today, and I had it installed in a couple of hours. A fair amount of that time was taken up with cleaning. The piston buffer was quite a bit worse than the one in the previous photo, and the springs were a fair bit shorter than the replacements. Anyway, it's working great now, thanks very much for the advice chaps. Just one question. After cocking the rifle, when I push the cocking lever back towards the gun, it takes quite a bit more force to engage the catch. I'm assuming this is because the breech seal is new, and it'll become easier after it's compressed a bit?
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2014
  16. wonky donky

    wonky donky Donator

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    Yes it can be a bit tight especially with the new Green breech seals. If you had a shim behind the old seal & put it back with the new one, remove it. It's not often they are shimmed though.
     
  17. Wynne G Oldman

    Wynne G Oldman Engaging Member

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    I thought that was it. I thoroughly cleaned everything, and there was no shim. The breech seal had been replaced quite a while ago, but the piston buffer was the original. It looked a bit like a big crusty Polo mint. I had another reply from Feinwerkbau, and the lady who emailed me said that their engineers said to lubricate the piston with a small amount of Feinwerkbau Special grease, so I gave it a very thin coat. Thanks again for all your help. Just got to learn how to shoot the bloody thing now. :D
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2014

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