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Project: Stinkray Mk2 Quattro

Discussion in 'Technical' started by MrBadger, Jun 15, 2021.

  1. MrBadger

    MrBadger Busy Member

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    A few of you may have seen my stock woes on another thread here about my (deep breath) Turkish Webley Stingray mk2 powr-lok Quattro in the fairground calibre.

    This rifle was an accidental purchase (you know, as you do), has zero sentimental value, and has a pretty horrid trigger (feels like full release weight on very back end of second stage) and harsh cycle. However, it keeps coming to hand for re-inspection when I’m on boring work calls an I just don’t think I can let it beat me!

    One major downside is that aside from one parts breakdown, I can so far find pretty much zero technical documentation on this particular generation of the rifle. Which is nice :rolleyes:

    My to-do list:
    1. Strip the action and (world’s wiggliest) trigger unit
    2. Remove approximately one whale’s worth of grease
    3. Assess, polish and replace any internal niknaks
    4. Reassemble
    5. Adjust or tune trigger
    6. Cringe/Test
    7. Stock fix, refurb or replacement

    It’s not worth real money, so I’d rather not sink actual cash into a sub-optimal rifle, but this feels like it should be perfectly fit for purpose to be left in a slip in the barn for farm plinking and rat handling, surely? I can’t sell it as it is, well, not for real money anyway, so figured I push my limited skills a bit further than my last (and first) project TX200.

    With that, I set off to find my largest hammer and longest roll of duct tape.

    Any pointers or suggestions welcomed with open arms. I believe these Turkish gen Webleys share parts across various platforms, so any interchangeabilities you might know of would be great to hear.
    1621947961369.jpg 1621947961407.jpg IMG_20210615_153939.jpg 1621947961382.jpg
     
    td_boy likes this.
  2. MrBadger

    MrBadger Busy Member

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    Just looked at the stock screw pic and checked, and actually behaves like that screw hole is actually a mil or two further forward than the other side, as the screw head has clearly been pushing forward into the forestock. Will get the callipers out. Could also be the bracket on the action, I suppose. Hmm. Off to measure some things….
     
  3. MrBadger

    MrBadger Busy Member

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    Right side stock screw hole is indeed a whisker under one full mil further back than the left, so will have been stressing for over a decade.
    Feels like it will be easier to bang a different stock on rather than try to recentre it with an insert.
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2021
  4. the logun-ator

    the logun-ator "can i,? wey aye man!"

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    yea not the best built of brake barrels.
    i had a mates in a bit back,his cocking leaver kept falling out.
    no wear on the leaver but the cocking slit was 2mm wider in the middle than the ends
    quick squish in the vice followed by ''sell it'',and it was gone.
    i bought the same stock off the bay for 40 bar,currently has an early vulcan living in it.
    ide still have one for the collection though just to show how poo they are compared to the mk1 i have.
     
  5. monsta41

    monsta41 Donator

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    my brummy mk1 is really well finished internally :) and shoots better with the tbt kit inside
     
  6. MrBadger

    MrBadger Busy Member

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    This thing is not pretty inside. At all.
    Spring guide had to be yanked out of the spring as it’s exactly the same od as the spring id, plus think the spring is a bit kinked.
    Everything is sharp as feck!! Really not a well manufactured item, which is sad.
    Decision time now as to whether I get a new guide, and maybe spring, and maybe piston seal, and maybe stock…..
    Or just put it in a bin somewhere……
    I deeply regret parting with cash for this, but I’m learning from it I spose
     
    monsta41 likes this.
  7. monsta41

    monsta41 Donator

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    just use it as a learning exercise then matey, there might even be a few bits knocking around on here in peoples bits drawers... wouldnt be a bad idea to ask, you might get it back up and running on a smaller budget
     
    paj likes this.
  8. MrBadger

    MrBadger Busy Member

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    This is a good plan, as looks like Hatsan 55 or something is the same rifle, so chances of some odds kicking around might be greater.
    I’m tempted to Emery down the guide so the spring can actually move, then apply considerably less grease and rebuild and see how it does. If it’s less of a c0ck then maybe look to replace the stock once I know it’s worth it.
    Really don’t like the idea of this thing beating me, so will probably be an ongoing slow burner!
     
    Byronic and TORNADOS7 like this.
  9. MrBadger

    MrBadger Busy Member

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    I used this Hatsan 60 strip guide to strip it. Thanks to @Meteor62 for the original material :thumb:
    Pretty similar aside from only two pins in mine for releasing the back block and trigger unit, not the three shown on his mod60. Very helpful pointer regarding the zip tie for keeping the safety in one piece.

    Looks like tbt no longer do any kits for these, but still going to try shaving the guide and reassembling first to see if it’s worth any more hassle ……
     
    Byronic and cloverleaf like this.
  10. Lukeypoodle

    Lukeypoodle Posting Addict

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    A friend bought the gas ram Webley branded hatsan synthetic (VMX?) round a few years ago, he couldn't get on with it said it was very inaccurate couldn't zero it etc etc.

    The pellets were those awful Napier power lube monstrosities, he'd bought a combo from mole Valley farmers and they'd thrown them in. Wonder how many rifles get abandoned by new shooters because the pellets thrown in are gash.

    Gave him a couple of tins of FTT and zeroed it for him and he's pleased as punch with it. I think the Hatsans are much better with the ram, my 95 vortex is lovely to shoot if quite crudely finished.
     
    MrBadger likes this.
  11. MrBadger

    MrBadger Busy Member

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    I think the vmx might be the one I quite fancy a barrel swap with, if it’s the full shroud one? You’re right about the high turnover of new shooters. Neighbour bought a similar package from Mole but he didn’t have a clue that it would even need zeroing (don’t ask) so was very disappointed that it hadn’t automatically adjusted itself to zero at his garden’s length :facepalm: it’s not always the shop’s fault!

    Such a shame that these appear to have been thrown together with no finishing or qc. The stock looks like the inletting has been done with a hatchet, and the more I look at this stock I just think it’s destined to be a bit of test wood for future stains and paint experiments :(
     
  12. MrBadger

    MrBadger Busy Member

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  13. Lukeypoodle

    Lukeypoodle Posting Addict

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    You'd be surprised how nice a bit of walnut might be lurking.

    It was fully shrouded like an old theoben, quite liked it.
    IMG_20210613_162507258.jpg
     
    MrBadger likes this.
  14. MrBadger

    MrBadger Busy Member

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    Ooh, that’s kinda purdy
     
  15. MrBadger

    MrBadger Busy Member

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    Reassembly of the pig complete, and even the trigger mech (didn't dowel it) went back together fine!
    Remarkably it shoots a bit better. Ten pellets through at an average of 10.6, which may we'll change as it settles a bit. Shall keep an eye.

    Now to start researching the quattro trigger, as needs a lot of adjustment to make it nice.

    Now considering trying to set an insert in the broken side of the forestock and soaking that whole leg in superglue :D

    There's a lot of clunky action noise so will soft bed it once I've decided to fix/replace the stock. At the minute though it seems like cheapy used stocks aren't very common any more :(

    Anyway, if this can group reasonably at 25 or so yards once the stock is fixed, it might actually become my new farm daag!
     
  16. Byronic

    Byronic Good thing we are all different, eh?

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    Look on the bright side?
    It's only a cheap gun, costing you mainly your time - and looks an interesting project.
    Good results so far?
     
    MrBadger likes this.
  17. monsta41

    monsta41 Donator

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    you should try to get one for a mk1, even bad ones are rare as rocking horse do do
     
    MrBadger likes this.
  18. MrBadger

    MrBadger Busy Member

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    This is very much my state of mind right now. If it hadn’t worked when reassembled, then it’d have been in the freebie section, but as it’s actually already improved it shall be an ongoing project for now.


    Fair point, but at least the mk1 was popular and decent, so should be more of em about!

    I have just found that the broken side of the stock had two grippy washer thingies in it, not one. Not sure if a previous owner thought this might help, or whether it’s another production line c0ck up that has contributed towards me crack.

    I’m leaning towards maybe moving the stock screw hole forward a bit to where it’s level with the bracket on the action, as well as the outer recess for the head. Thought glue a dowel in the old hole, superglue the cracks, then redrill and extend the countersink in the right o_O

    This shall be no show n shine winner for sure! Seems sacrilege to say as it’s walnut, but may even paint or platidip the stock.
     
  19. monsta41

    monsta41 Donator

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    @nath92 fixed mine, maybe message him when his ban is up, its not too expensive..... or if you pm me a picture of the damage i can contact him on your behalf for a quote
     
    Byronic likes this.
  20. monsta41

    monsta41 Donator

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    This was done when Nath was doing a forum offer (£65),just at the exact time i got it off a forum member @Stevie Darling for free as it was broken, Nath repaired the break and stained and refinished the whole stock (beech), i cant even see the repair, and i know its there :up:
    Then i had @Blackmax fit a @Tinbum hatsan spring guide and tophat and @bl4de made the shroud/silencer.

    If you want to keep the gun then id say its worth it, even just to see how good you can make it..

    I'll never let this one go :up:

    stinger.jpg
     
    Byronic likes this.

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