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Question Polishing the hammer

Discussion in 'Anything Airgun Related' started by ajs193, Jul 21, 2015.

  1. ajs193

    ajs193 Donator

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    Not wanting to hijack mikey's Hammer and rail polish thread (here), i thought I'd start another thread.
    I can understand how polishing the hammer rail can improve consistency, I've polished the rail on my S410. Nice and shiny now and it feels much smoother all round :)
    While I was there I cleaned the inside of the hammer, got all the crud out, same stuff that was on the rail. Couldn't polish the inside really but cleaned it out as best I could.

    Maybe I don't understand what's meant by polishing the hammer but I've just watched a youtube vid that shows the external body of the hammer being polished. I cannot for the life of me see how that effects hammer movement in any way, it seems purely cosmetic to me.

    What am I missing?
     
  2. Ghengis57

    Ghengis57 Engaging Member

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    Link to the video please?
     
  3. ajs193

    ajs193 Donator

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  4. Gunfun

    Gunfun Engaging Member

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    No its not cosmetic,
    When you have 2 rough metal surfaces sliding in direct contact, wear and friction will be very high. But if the 2 metal surfaces are flat/smooth enough that a film of oil is trapped between the surfaces and no metal to metal contact occurs the friction and wear are vastly reduced. If the 2 surfaces are so smooth that oil cannot be trapped between them then the wear and friction can increase.
    So the point of polishing the hammer is not to get it to a mirror finish (say 3000 grit) but to have a surface that can hold oil (maybe 1200 grit) to prevent metal to metal wear/friction.
    I don't know the exact surface roughness required to hold different viscosities of oil. Springer tuners had a similar problem with polishing the compression chambers, in that if they went with too finer grit/polish the piston seals would not be lubricated, maybe they could advise of a good grit to get the required surface finish.
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2015
  5. mick 1986

    mick 1986 Keyboard Hero

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    I think the term "polish" is misleading, and should really be changed to "honed". As has been said, polishing it too much creates friction, but honing it will allow it to hold oil. I usually stop at 1200 grit when honing metal items.
     
  6. radiofan

    radiofan Engaging Member

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    Most of the external body of the hammer doesn't come into contact with anything, so it's a bit of a waste of effort IMO. However, there are surfaces that the springs come into contact with, so polishing these surfaces may result in less friction as the gun is being fired.
     
  7. ajs193

    ajs193 Donator

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    that was my thinking

    Ahh, that makes sense. I suppose if you're after absolute, maximum performance then every little helps, thanks.
    Do people polish the springs too?

    And, from an obsessive/compulsive point of view, if you're in there polishing the rail you may as well make it all shiny :)
     
  8. radiofan

    radiofan Engaging Member

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    I do polish the spring ends, where they apply pressure. This is quite important for smooth operation, particularly in a springer, where the springs are big and hard.
     
  9. terry1001

    terry1001 Major Poster

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    The hammer itself runs on the guide rail and the only parts that are in contact with the rail are 2 bearings, one at each end. I believe that these are supposed to be 'self lubricating'. I have polished my guide rail but didn't bother with the hammer itself. My preference is to use a tiny amount of a very light oil on the guide, I use an oil designed for use in air tools which is very thin and will deal with a wide temperature range but a sewing machine type oil would probably be fine. To apply the oil I put a couple of drops on one end of the guide and wipe it along and off with (clean) finger/thumb. This leaves a very slight trace of oil. You don't need much and you certainly don't want anything heavy or sticky. Some people like to run their hammers dry but I prefer to lubricate anymoving metal to metal parts.
    The outside of the hammer need not be touched, if you do you should be very careful not to damage the sear profile or it's likely to fire at an awkward moment.
     

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