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Polishing Inside of Cylinder on a break barrel?

Discussion in 'Anything Airgun Related' started by Pete E, Jul 8, 2014.

  1. Pete E

    Pete E Engaging Member

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    Just wondering how you guys polish the inside of the cylinder on a break barrel springer? I was thinking of a 1" mop of some sort on an extension chucked into an electric drill? If anybody can recommend a mop and extension suitable, that would be great..

    Regards,

    Peter
     
  2. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    Broom handle with a slit,sandpaper goes in the slit and handle gets chucked on my lathe,runs at 1,000 rpm with plenty of coolant.
     
  3. TORNADOS7

    TORNADOS7 Top Poster

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    Have often wondered this myself, I thought maybe a small paint roller sponge/mop attached to a rod in a drill chuck with suitable polishing pastes on !!!
     
    ModPol likes this.
  4. radiofan

    radiofan Engaging Member

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    But if you don't have a lathe, narrow down one end and put it into the chuck of the electric drill. High speed will centre the mandrel. Start with 500 grit wet&dry and depending on the results, move on to 1000+ grit.
    Using a mop will take a long time.
     
  5. Jackroadkill

    Jackroadkill Donator

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    I use a very fine motorcycle cylinder bore hone tool.
     
  6. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    If you don't have a lathe,buy one,they're awesome :p

    All grits of micromesh followed by autosol,no need for messy and fast wearing wet and dry.
     
  7. Pete E

    Pete E Engaging Member

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    Mattyts,

    Thanks for that..So is the idea that the sandpaper is wrapped around the broom handle such that it is aa snug fit inside the cylinder, or is it set up like a "flap wheel" ie the paper is not really supported? Any chance of a few pics next time you have it all set up in the lathe?

    I am thinking a plastic shot gun jag might be set up to work in a similar manner, and that could easily be screwed onto an old cleaning rod for chucking in the electric drill...

    Regards Peter
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2014
  8. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    Yes,that's basically it,I don't have any pics as I just make them as and when I need it.
     
  9. dave1962

    dave1962 Posting Addict

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    I saw someone on YouTube use an old spring wrapped in various grades of wire wool.
     
  10. tomsteebs

    tomsteebs Donator

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    One thing to remember is not to sand/polish too much as the lube will then have no purchase on the said item
     
  11. JD

    JD Donator

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    This all sounds abit ott, sandpaper and 1000rpm, you could end up with a cylinder out of round.

    A mop and polishing paste is all you need and doing it by hand gives you a feel for any tight or loose spots in the tube.
     
  12. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    The sandpaper I use is probably finer than some of the polishing paste available so no,you wont.
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2014
  13. JD

    JD Donator

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    That will be what used to be know as flour paper then, to use the term sandpaper makes it sound aggressive.

    When you polish a com tube, its always best to check for tight or loose spots by hand.
     
  14. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    It's micromesh,not flour paper.

    Sandpaper is a generic term for abrasive backed on paper,the same as polishing compound is a generic term for abrasive suspended in a liquid or paste,I have used compounds around 100 grit which would wreck a compression tube.

    You wouldn't have much luck removing any marks left by the factory finish on a compression tube using some polish like Autosol or similar, all you will do us polish the high and low spots making the scratch pattern even more apparent, which is why I recommended sandpaper since it tends to remove metal a little faster.

    Whichever method you choose,you have to be careful as rough sandpaper and even compound will remove a lot of metal very quickly.
     
  15. cloverleaf

    cloverleaf Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    It surprises me that nobody has yet asked the question of whether the cylinder needs polishing in the first place...
     
  16. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    I don't go all out so it's like glass but I do polish it enough so that there's no small edges for the piston seal to rub on but with a scratch pattern still present so the lube has something to key on to,whether or not this is the right thing to do or not,I don't know but it works well for me.
     
  17. JD

    JD Donator

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    Then call it as such, remember there are novices reading your tips, sandpaper is for refinishing your stocks.

    I surprised no one has metioned, cross hatching the cylinder once lightly polished.
     
  18. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    I could say the same about you and your polishing compound but I won't because I'm not picky.
     
  19. 1961nuffield

    1961nuffield Honorary Member

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    Its good after your tuning efforts that the lube has something to adhere to, (cross hatching etc) as its important in the firing cycle of the the air gun.

    HTH

    John
     
  20. 177

    177 Donator

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    ^^ This ^^

    Some say yes, some say no.

    I have a foot in the latter camp, mostly.

    I've shot some beautifully tuned guns that didn't have anything done to the cylinder internals (debur of any slots and opening notwithstanding) and I've also shot other tuned guns that did.

    I couldn't tell any significant difference that could be based purely on a cylinder internal polish alone.

    When I've messed with tuning spring guns I tend to see a major change in firing cycle from buffing lube into the cylinder internal surfaces rather than just slapping some onto the piston front and rear and around the seal on reassembly.

    Ditto to buttoning the piston, or making bearing rings for it.

    Keeping in mind that a good tune is the combination of a lot of things working to (hopefully) compliment one another and create a balance of sorts - at this point I get to reveal my hypocrisy because I do actually do a little work on the internals of the cylinder, but only a little, and certainly not to the extent being discussed here. The work I do is mainly to support buffing lube into the surfaces so it is more a surface prep to get the best out of that rather than anything else.

    Put it like this: I can do just a few things to a spring gun that transform it dramatically. Working on the cylinder internals isn't one of them.

    As per usual your mileage may vary and whatever works is good.

    I'm not saying it doesn't work, just that there are other things that can (and should) be done which combine to a much greater overall whole in my experience.
     

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