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Original Mod 35

Discussion in 'Vintage collectable airguns' started by Paul John Everest, Nov 24, 2018.

  1. Paul John Everest

    Paul John Everest Member

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    DSC05872.JPG DSC05873.JPG DSC05874.JPG DSC05875.JPG DSC05876.JPG Picked up this a while back, an Original Model 35 .22 (Diana)

    Still fires well, has a lot of wear and tear, foresight and rearsight mashed, Stock solid no cracks, a few dings, barrel and cocking lever fine, just needs a good clean,oil, polish, or even re blueing.

    You guys reckon it worth saving or better to break up for spares? thanks in advance
     
    Tadpole likes this.
  2. NeilnrLincoln

    NeilnrLincoln Engaging Member

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    I'd say it's worth saving. I'd give it a go.
     
    Paul John Everest likes this.
  3. Paul John Everest

    Paul John Everest Member

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    Its only surface corrosion , no pitting as such, An old boy i used to work with knew i was into shooting, said iv got an old rifle in my shed, brought it in with a Faux leather case lol, and half a tin of Eley Pellets, wanted £20 for it, i couldn't say no, knew it worth more than that as bits
     
  4. Geezer

    Geezer Busy Member

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    Looks like a 1950s or early 60s model.

    The sights are not the original (no pun) ones. Not sure if they are somehow the remnants of the original ones, or (see below) a home-made replacement.

    The crude attempt at mounting a home-made scope rail (if that is what it is supposed to be) is a great shame.
     
  5. Paul John Everest

    Paul John Everest Member

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    Yeah im guessing 60's guy i bought it of was retiring and having a sort out, Yes Geezer im thinking its a bit of a mongrel lol
     
  6. gixxer

    gixxer Busy Member

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    Early model that, I think the first examples had grooves cut into trigger blade.

    Got one of these and it shoots fantastic to be fair.
    Gave it a gentle fettle I was impressed .
    Trigger was sweet
    Somewhere I have a immaculate never used barrel and cylinder and a stock I believe not seen in decades I bet.

    If you don't wish to 're blue , but some hammerite kurust , it turns it black on rust if you wipe it on off with rag after a clean off of surface rust leaving rust on to cure to turn black.

    I would save it but leave with aged patina.
     
    Paul John Everest likes this.
  7. Paul John Everest

    Paul John Everest Member

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    Is there normally a date stamp on these? if you know
     
  8. gixxer

    gixxer Busy Member

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    I'm not sure on the early 35, if their is it will be on the left side rear above stock line.
    I honestly can't remember and can't get to mine easily.
    Above trigger on main cylinder left side visible above stock line if so.
     
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  9. gixxer

    gixxer Busy Member

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    Careful with that rust if you want it to keep patina, gentle 0000 dry wire wool just to remove loose and smooth surface then kurust ,it should look nice.
     
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  10. Geezer

    Geezer Busy Member

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    The date stamps i think started in the early 60s. The early ones (including one of mine) don’t have them.

    If it has one, it will be a small stamping about two inches in from the back of the cylinder, just above the stock, on the left hand side.
     
    gixxer likes this.
  11. johnbaz

    johnbaz Keyboard Hero

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    I'd be tempted to use coarse wire wool on that, The 0000 is ok for guns that have some nice blueing!

    I was given this mk2 Airsporter, It was in a bad way but no pitting as such, I used oil soaked coarse wire wool and was happy with the improvement!, I don't think the fine stuff would have done the same job, Or if it had I reckon it would have taken ages!!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    And after just ten mins!!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I've a couple of 35's, This one is marked Gecado, This was the tradename for the Original guns that were destined for the U.S., South Africa and Australia, It's .177" cal..

    The stock was refinished here at Custom Stocks of Sheffield!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    This one is marked Original and is .22" cal
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Good luck with the resto (If you go that route), Personally I think i'd get it stripped, Polished and refinished!! :thumb:


    John :)
     
  12. Dag

    Dag Big Poster

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    Does Kurust leave a black finish? I can't recall the actual chemical but it might have been phosphoric acid that I think was used on the US tank recovered and now standing next to the beach at Slapton Sands. Ok, Gurgle to the rescue, it was Fertan and yes it does contain phosphoric acid amongst other ingredients. The tank was stabilised with Fertan and then had a black bitumen paint applied so hardly comparable with an air rifle.
    The Diana 24 that I have just bought has numerous light rust spots to the barrel and I can't decide whether to leave it as the 'patina' of age or use the wire wool and oil and see if I can get it any better than it is now. I would say it is about the standard of johnbaz's Airsporter after he had worked on it.
    Jim
     
  13. gixxer

    gixxer Busy Member

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    The kurust doesn't go all black. On light spots I use cereal box card the UN coloured side and oil and do it gently over days rubbing. Doesn't damage blacking.

    Then I dab on the spot only kurust with fine art paint brush or cotton wool but then dab off excess if any.

    I like g96 paste but it's too black for me ,still not found a nice bluing thouvh
     
    Dag likes this.
  14. Bruno27

    Bruno27 Engaging Member

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    Intrigued: What is UN coloured side? What is your method?
    Thanks
     
  15. crinkle

    crinkle Engaging Member

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    The inside of the box perhaps .
     
  16. gixxer

    gixxer Busy Member

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    Cardboard the grey or manila coloured side not the outer coloured or printed side,add oil to the card and rub.from ceriel packages ,cornflakes so on.

    I have used it to great effect on spots .just takes time and patience without damage.

    Wd 40 on kitchen towel is great too to ensure you leave no rust on metal that will wipe off anyway.

    To test it wipe gun with oil n rag then try wd after on kitchen towel.often gets what's missed.

    I use a hard floor wax old school stuff on rusted bluing,stops further progress. Very good stuff.
     

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