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Optimum range for zeroing a scope?

Discussion in 'Anything Airgun Related' started by stevieb, Jun 15, 2014.

  1. stevieb

    stevieb Active Member

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    I was wondering what you would regard as the best range to zero in a telescopic sight?

    I have a very basic cross hair model 4x32 mag crosman & intend to pair it with a vintage BSA Airsporter .22. Indeed it was buying this sight - a fiver off the car boot as new condition - which is getting me back into the sport. I know about compensating for range but given the above weapon & the fact that it still shoots well with plenty of power what would you suggest as a datum point?
     
  2. Dag

    Dag Pro Poster

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    Probably best to do a search on zero and zeroing as there have been quite a few threads re this subject. For what it is worth though I'd suggest starting at 15yds depending on garden or range available and work up from there, and also download Chairgun which will give you heaps of info about primary and secondary zeroi points. It's importnat that you do have some idea of your rifle's poewer output so try and borrow, or buy, a Combro or other make of chrono.
    atb
    Dag
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2014
  3. Patrick

    Patrick Donator

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    I would think about 25-30yds would be the optimum range for that scope and rifle combination,ideally it should also be reparallaxed to same distance.
     
  4. Tim_B

    Tim_B Major Poster

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    Optimum zero range can only really be worked out if you have other data i.e. power of air rifle. This is where a chrono comes in really handy (40 quid for a combro will do). Then once you have the data chairgun can really help you out. But theres no substitute for actually shooting at different ranges at targets to get a feel for the scope.

    There is a good sticky on how to zero a scope - start at 10 yards and move out to your desired range.l

    for what its worth my .22's are around 27 yards and my .177's around 35 yards.

    thanks
    Tim
     
  5. oliver13

    oliver13 Donator

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    I zero to 20M because that's the longest range I have indoors, in practise it seems pretty good all round - including with my Airsporter.
     
  6. Accuspell

    Accuspell Pro Poster

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    I think people are being a bit too scientific for the 4x32 and Airsporter combo - a great classic combination which I will hazard a guess is .22. In which case, given the duplex crosshair, sight it in for 28 yards and aim a bit high at 35. Don't bother with Chairgun and all that crap - once you have it sighted in at 28 paces, put a card out at 35 paces and shoot dead on, that will tell you how far it drops. From that you will know how high to hold over at those ranges. You don't need to know beyond because 35 is far enough! For the closer ranges, do the same at 22 yards and see how high it hits. From then on it is educated guesswork and the more you educate yourself, the better your guesses will be. You will enjoy the liberating feeling of using a truly iconic, classic.
     
  7. Bemused

    Bemused Engaging Member

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    I think your intended use will have more influence than anything.
     
  8. stevieb

    stevieb Active Member

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    Old fashioned fella with an old fashioned rifle. I will be using it for hunting bunnies & pigeon etc. This is the rifle. Old scope fitted. I'll post a pic of the new one soon as.

    View attachment 98371
     
  9. Ichabod Armacost

    Ichabod Armacost Donator

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    Nice!!! I still have a soft spot for the old Airsporter. I think it might be nice to find a nice one and give it a bloody good fettling.:up::)
     
  10. Ichabod Armacost

    Ichabod Armacost Donator

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    A man after my own heart!:cool::up::D
     
  11. neiled

    neiled Donator

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    But not of mine...........learn to embrace technology not be frightened of it, I won't use the word Luddite but...............:eek:
     
  12. terry1001

    terry1001 Major Poster

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    As you have a low powered scope you will find that the amount of holdover/under on the reticle is very small so it will be more a case of aiming a touch high or low as necessary depending on the range. It's probably best to work this out by shooting at various ranges to see what it looks like through the scope.
    If you know the muzzle velocity then Chairgun will give you a fair idea of the drop at various ranges (and the remaining power) but it really comes into its own with multi aim point scopes and higher magnifications.
    I would think that a zero range of 25 yards would allow you to aim pretty well dead on out to just beyond that distance and then work out you holdover for 30/35 yards, maybe 40 if you have a particulalry good Airsporter and can get decent grouping at longer ranges. You won't really know until you've shot it a fair bit and checked the muzzle velocity.
     
  13. Ichabod Armacost

    Ichabod Armacost Donator

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    You make some assumptions do you not?:)........................You assume that because I can't be assed with something I must fear it??? On top of that you accuse me of being a Luddite, oh no you didn't did you, because you say you wont use the word you used:laff:

    When yer shillin' runs out, (and it will), what will happen to your technology then hmmmmmmm?

    OK, string tugging aside, :)can you not just accept that some people are not interested in the things that interest you, and even prefer to tackle issues or problems in a different way.
     
  14. Patrick

    Patrick Donator

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    I agree,me too
     
  15. terry1001

    terry1001 Major Poster

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    As I've already given my suggestion to the OP for his query I'm going to allow myself a little latitude and follow the slightly off topic discussion regarding new fangled methods. Some years ago, when software for home computers cost a fortune, the way to compare trajectories (for centre fire cartridges) was to refer to aa book of tables. These had been calculated almost certainly on a main frame computer by the bullet makers and contained all the information you needed to help set up your rifle for longer range shooting. Now the software to do this is available to anyone with a smartphone or a computer.
    My personal preference is to use any available technology to help me enjoy my shooting and by using Chairgun and a multi aim point scope I can increase my hunting effectiveness. Needless to say I do check the computer output by shooting and I check the muzzle velocity with a chrono. These aids aren't essential but they help reduce the length of time it would take to achieve the same results simply by shooting at targets at various ranges - I also use a rangefinder when shooting somewhere new to check out the distances. I have no wish to take part in 'primitive' shooting, I've done that in the past and I'm happy to move on and embrace the future.
    Of course others may choose to enjoy their shooting in a different way to me and I'm pleased for them and wish them well. However when new shooters seek advice on how to do certain things it is only right and fair to give them options and let them make up their own minds when they have sufficient experience. The choice of shooting kit is very personal and it's only experience that allows shooters to make informed choices, that and unbiased advice and reviews from their peers. I do hold strong views on many shooting related subjects but I won't put them forward as the only way only suggest that they are worth considering.
    When I started shooting (which was before most of the members here were born) the way to learn about shooting was from a parent or other adult, there were no on-line forums or internet and only a few books on the subject. We were told or shown how to do things and then tried them out for ourselves and the adapted the advice for our own circumstances. Now the internet is awash with aadvice and stories, many of them are absolute rubbish but how is a new or prospective shooter to know which bit of internet trivia is worth taking note of? We are constantly bombarded with misinformation from all sides, luckily the advice and information on this forum is usually sound but there is a tiny amount even here which is wrong or misleading. Obviously people have their personal preferences and biases in equipment choice and this is both acceptable and good, what is not good is expressing these personal thoughts as factual statements and then abusing anyone who has the nerve to reply with a contrary view or a statement of fact such as 'A is not heavier then B, they do actually weigh the same'.
    Everyone is entitled to their own views on any subject and they are entitled to express them, what they should not try and do is put them forward as fact or ridicule the equally valid (even if wrong) opinions of others. It is also not helpful to repeat stuff which you have seen or heard elsewhere and put that forward as facts, it's ok if you name your source and allow others to make up their own mind but there are too many myths circulating which are often wrong and usually misleading. The written word is not as expressive as a face to face encounter and sometimes people believe anything they see in print when they should treat it all with a healthy dose of scepticism and carry out further research before deciding if it is right or wrong.
    :soap:
     

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