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New to all this. HFT scope setting advice needed

Discussion in 'Target Shooting' started by GridNorth, May 27, 2015.

  1. GridNorth

    GridNorth Busy Member

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    I'm just getting into HFT (not interested in competition shooting but I like the environment)and need some advice. I bought myself an Air Arms TX200 with a Nikko Stirling 3-9x40 Mountmaster with Side IR. My scope is currently zeroed at 30 yards but I haven't had a chance to work out holdovers etc. although 1 x mildot at 40 yards seemed to be quite consistent when shooting at metal targets. I did try an air rifle club as a guest,which is where I managed to get the scope zeroed, but it's a bit on the expensive side so I will not be going back.

    Question 1. What is Side IR and what do I do with it?

    Question 2. Holdover/under. I heard somewhere but can't remember where that if you zero a scope to 19 yards you only need to holdover at the furthest distances eg. 45 yards and that most other targets will be hit using the cross hairs. Bear in mind I am currently crap at this.

    Question 3. Apart from driving for an hour to my nearest HFT range I can only manage about 10 yards in my garden so how can I set my scope up? Chairgun looks very good but I do not have access to a Chronograph. I have seen one for the iPhone that uses sound but is this any good?

    All the gear and no idea :)

    Alan
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2015
  2. milek

    milek Honorary Member

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    Hi Alan. Side IR is actually two things. Sidewheel parallax adjustment with illuminated reticle. You can forget that bit for the purpose of HFT. Side parallax allows you to set your chosen parallax where a target will be perfectly clear. Some way above that or below that distance the image will become progressively blurry. I parallax at 30 yards which means I will start to see blur at around 38 yards and as low as 15 yards. The blurr helps me range estimate for the further and closer shots.

    If you choose 30 yards as your parallax point you will be able to zero also at 17 yards to get your primary zero point. For years I have placed target at every five yard increment from 8 yards to 45 and from this I can see where my holdover/under points are. Chairgun gives you a clue but I would rather find out the best way in the field.

    Sounds like you went to Glevum? A few of the Cheltenham lads come to Furnace Mill on a Sunday where we have targets at every imaginable distance up to 55 yards and HFT courses that you can shoot all day for £7. If you come to FM one day and meet up with the lads you might be able to car-share and save some cash.

    The iphone chrono app is a waste of time.
     
  3. GridNorth

    GridNorth Busy Member

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    Thanks for that. Yes it was Glevum. They are all very friendly but for what it has to offer it's very expensive. I was at FM yesterday but just spent the time plinking. I need to take it a little more seriously next time. I'm afraid I can't make Sundays nor Saturdays for that matter. My main hobby is rock climbing and the only time I can get partners is at the weekend. I took up shooting as it is something I can do mid-week. Being retired it's weekdays that I need something to do but thanks for the offer. The problem, as I see it, is that at FM I can't set up my own calibrating targets.
     
  4. milek

    milek Honorary Member

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    Rock climbing, hate heights, I don't like being this tall (those on here will know what I mean by that)

    FM has targets (paper) from 15 to 45 freshly printed each morning. If you zero at 30 aim at each new distance target dead on. Study how far the poi has shifted and measure it in mil-dots. My 45 yard is a full mil-dot over. My 10 yard is two mil-dots under. from 15 to 20 its pretty much on and only the 20 & 25 yard marker where I hold under by a quarter of a mil-dot. Hard to explain unless I was there. You might bump into one of the regular members any day of the week and they will certainly help you if you ask (but they do talk funny).
     
  5. GridNorth

    GridNorth Busy Member

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    OK will do. Thank you very much Milek. Don't know when I can get back however. It's just that little bit too far to be convenient but I do think it's good value for money. I had hoped for some sneaky way of doing this at 10 yards and extrapolating. Nothing worthwhile is ever easy though is it.

    Alan
     
  6. Speed

    Speed Busy Member

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    on mine .177 1 mil dot is 45 yard, only way you can really find out all your aim points is shoot groups at various ranges on paper

    side ir is illuminated reticle, ideal for when light is fading, usually red/green

    zero range depends on your setup, i use a 30 yard zero then all my aimpoints are below the crosshair

    at 10 yards you are going to struggle to get a proper zero, you could crono your rifle and imput all the data to give you aimpoints and use your 10 yard mark as your crosshair, my 10 yard mark is 1 mildot down, but to be accurate you need to be shooting at distance.

    where are you planning on shooting if you are not going to visit a range? if you are 100% only going to shoot in your garden at 10 yard zero it to 10 yard
    if you have a farm permission set some paper targets up
     
  7. GridNorth

    GridNorth Busy Member

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    Unless I can find somewhere nearer that is not too expensive I will probably go to Furness Mill. It seems to be well thought of and it is only 1 hour away which is not really too bad. I live in the Cotswolds, you would have thought there would be plenty of places to shoot but they mostly seem to cater for shot gun shooting around here. I can find several clay pigeon shooting ranges all within 10 minutes drive and I can hear shot guns regularly from my house.

    Ian Coley has a range but it's £10 an hour which I think is taking the proverbial.

    Alan
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2015
  8. GridNorth

    GridNorth Busy Member

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    How does one go about getting permission? I only want to shoot at targets and I would have thought that part of the deal with a farmer would be either you get rid of pests for him and/or you share the kills.

    Alan
     
  9. mikmon

    mikmon Donator

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    Hi Alan im the big guy who was talking to you up furnace mill yesterday we will prob cross paths up there again as i get up there in the week sometimes ! ( thats gonna provoke action from the Imp ) if you need to know anything more il do me best to help !

    Mik
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2015
  10. GridNorth

    GridNorth Busy Member

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    Thanks, I look forward to seeing you again. I think I've just got my head around zeroing and holdover thanks to Si Pittaway and the Chairgun software. I wondered why I could consistently hit near to the centre at 30 yards consistently and even hit the bell at 50 yards occasionally but couldn't for the life of me hit the target at 10 metres. It didn't make any sense but I've just been playing around in the garden and now realise that I have to apply holdover at that distance. I was compensating by going in the opposite direction and getting further away from the target. I could see the logic for longer ranges but not for nearer targets. That was counter-intuitive but now I understand. I did have a little play on the HFT range yesterday but I think I'm a long way from being even half reasonable at that. The gun doesn't help, it weighs a ton but I have been told that it's one of the best springers on the market and it has won comps so I can't really blame it on that can I.

    What would you recommend as a zeroing distance? Si Pittaway suggests 19 metres or 24 yards as you then only have to worry about holdover and not holdunder. With my limited skills I'm not sure that it makes much difference from the 30 yards I'm currently zeroed at.

    Alan
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2015
  11. mikmon

    mikmon Donator

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    Hi Alan as you said your just learning so id say zero at 25 yards that way everything else hft wise will be hold over where as 30 yards you get a bit of hold under at 20/25 yards also shooting a spring is a art and getting consistent groups is that bit harder than with a PcP so just keep plodding on and it will come !
     
  12. chevin

    chevin Keyboard Hero

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    What suits me and others may not suit you, I have three rifles set up for HFT my zero is 35yds and parallax set at 25yds with the scope's I have this is what works best for me, my scope's are all 10x42 so fixed mag, as the lads above have said when starting out get plenty of practice in on the paper's, then you will find your best combo of settings, atb.
     
  13. mitigator

    mitigator Busy Member

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    Hello,

    I have just started HFT. So for me - far zero at 35 yds, set parallax (focus) at 25 yds. my r10 .177 on chairgun (and its pretty bang on) says:

    at 12x mag (most use 10x but the maths is easier for me at 12)

    45yds - 0.8 holdover
    40yds - 0.4 holdover
    35yds - far zero
    18-33yds - up to 0.5 holdunder
    15yds near zero
    12.5 yds - .5 holdover
    11yds - 1.0 holdover
    10yds - 1.5 holdover

    so I can zero at 15yds and know ill be thereabouts at 35, then fine tune at 35yds.....


    1 dot windage at 30yds for every 5mph of cross wind.

    simple - got me a 54 on my first ever comp which put me halfway down (or up) the field, which I was pretty chuffed with.

    now all I've got to do is judge distance and wind (which is 95% of the skill in hft!)

    good luck
     

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