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leather seal thickness

Discussion in 'Anything Airgun Related' started by chefslot, Sep 30, 2014.

  1. chefslot

    chefslot Active Member

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    I was reading the article on how to make a leather seal and in my haist i brought a strip of leather 1/4 inch thick rather than 1/8th. shall i just slice it in half or do you think a thick piece will work? Also i was thinking about using a circlip to hold it on the piston that has a 1mm lip on. Regards jon
     
  2. oliver13

    oliver13 Donator

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    I'd say 1/4" would be pushing it a bit, but leather is flexible stuff when you give it a chance so it might work, I'd use 1/8 to 3/16" myself.

    As for the circlip, I'd have to see photographs to see what you actually mean, I've only ever seen ones with screws/bolts & washers to hold the leather on.
     
  3. chefslot

    chefslot Active Member

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    Hi, yeah i have ordered some more at 4mm. Was tough get to the shape i wanted even after a soak. Also even if it did work it would have left little space in the middle to get a circlip on. Hopefully you'll see the image. The lip is 1mm (15mm shaft, lip 17mm) the circlips are really tight to get on. If this doesn't work i think i will have to drill a hole and thread it in the end.
    View attachment 104478
     
  4. oliver13

    oliver13 Donator

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    Last edited: Oct 2, 2014
  5. chefslot

    chefslot Active Member

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    No it had a plastic moulded one. Is for the good ole mod60s. I just want to try leather, i wonder if it feels any different to shot with. Also think as a shtf air rifle would be more easier to fix if something goes wrong. As i understand it leather is no good for above 12lbs, If i dont like it i could swap back to a plastic job, i just thought why not.
     
  6. oliver13

    oliver13 Donator

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    Well in the interests of experimentation, why not?

    The seal may eventually come off with just the circlip, but if it doesn't come adrift in the first few shots it will probably last for a while. I think you'll need to get a washer underneath, quite a wide one. Maybe you could cut down & drill a Penny Washer to fit
    A traditional leather piston seal generally has a leather washer, a metal washer & a screw or bolt through the middle. http://www.airgunspares.com/store/product/9292/Leather-Piston-Washer-1"/
     
  7. chefslot

    chefslot Active Member

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    Yeah hear what your saying thou i was thinking the circlip would be holding the piston on when cocking back, the force of the piston going forward should hold it all in place when firing. but a good idea about the washer.

    the other thing ive noticed is that the inner leather seal reduces lost volume.
     
  8. oliver13

    oliver13 Donator

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    Maybe go ahead & drill & tap the piston & just do a traditional type leather piston seal installation, if you want to go back to a plastic seal the hole can be filled with a grub screw & some Loctite.

    I think you're right about the forces acting on the seal, the only time the circlip will be loaded is when it is being cocked, the BSA Scorpion pistol piston head is only held on with a type of circlip, a split ring with just under 1mm engagement, & they don't come off when it's cocked, but it is all metal to metal contact.
     
  9. ratman60

    ratman60 Pro Poster

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    hello, back in the good old days it was a common practice to change a leather air rifle piston seal your self but the ones you bought from the local ironmonger were truely stamped out, if i remember correct the thickness was just enough to get in tube and it was just a screw and washer on piston, we softened the seals with neatsfoot oil,
     

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