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HW97 Stripdown and tune - UPDATED

Discussion in 'Stickies Only' started by Jackroadkill, Jan 26, 2014.

  1. valboskie

    valboskie Busy Member

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    A brilliant write up very informative and the pictures were excellent.
    Maybe the the mods could make this a sticky .
    Atb
    David
     
  2. Jackroadkill

    Jackroadkill Donator

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    I can't get my head around how to get the mod off, which is a shame because I'd like a MWSS on there. Will keep at it and see if I can work it out.

    I thought about it, but thinking was as far as I got! It cocks pretty well as it is, so I'm not that worried about it. As you say, next time.

    Bet you did worse in the army...

    If the other mods are in agreement I will.
     
  3. mark.177

    mark.177 Donator

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    excellent stripdown guide... i always seem to get so engrossed in what im doing i forget to take pictures that might help others:eek:
     
  4. Bridson

    Bridson Active Member

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    Good write up, what benefits will this give to the rifle? And what do you do if it goes over the limit? How do you get it back down?
     
  5. Jackroadkill

    Jackroadkill Donator

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    This process makes the rifle much smoother to shoot, more consistent, develops less recoil and will make it less noisy. If it goes over the limit they I will remove one / both of the power bands (the Delrin washer-like things that are between the butt of the spring and the spring guide), which should return the rifle to legal power.
     
  6. Jackroadkill

    Jackroadkill Donator

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    As promised:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    You can see the difference between the two springs; the original spring is at the bottom. It's a good 30mm longer than the WW-supplied Titan spring and does not have a top hat (for some unknown reason!). It is also not very straight, the coils are too close and the gauge of the wire is very heavy, hence the twang, recoil and lack of general efficiency.

    [​IMG]

    Here you can see the relationship between the uncompressed spring, spring guide, piston and piston washer. The spring is a much better fit than the original. The amount of dry slide used to lubricate the whole piston is what you see here.

    [​IMG]

    Happily, the internal surface of the compression cylinder had been nicely honed, as seen in the picture above.

    [​IMG]

    This stuff costs a quid and will clean a Tory's conscience in seconds.
     
    MarcShaw likes this.
  7. Jackroadkill

    Jackroadkill Donator

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    Quick update:

    Three coats of Tru-Oil on the stock now; beginning to look good.
     
  8. Jackroadkill

    Jackroadkill Donator

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    Okay, I'll post some tomorrow. It's drying out good and proper tonight, and then tomorrow night there'll be a rub down with wire wool, a buff and another coat. I reckon that I'll have it back on the rifle by Sunday.
     
  9. andy draper

    andy draper Posting Addict

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    Looking at the serial number,it is one of the last 25mm,95/96 ish,you dropped on there mate.Did you find removing the bear trap made any difference in noise? or with the other mods couldn't you tell.Check out the maccari site,he sells delrin buttons that you just superglue to the piston,it saves drilling the piston and compression chamber to button it.Also in the pic in part 2 the bear trap is removed but the bolt that retains it is still screwed into the cylinder.Is this the deliberate mistake,if so I claim my prize of the completed project including free postage :D.
    andy.
     
  10. JD

    JD Donator

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    I don't think this is the first time JRK has stripped the 97 Andy, so the ABT has been removed, with just the stock lug remaining, which is needed to refit the stock.

    I would like to see some chrono results, but I know Jack is busy, so won't keep pushing for the outcome of this test. ; )
     
  11. simes222

    simes222 Donator

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    These are great, I've done my 95 with them (supplied by WW)

    Excellent thread mate +1 to "sticky" it.
     
  12. Egg

    Egg Major Poster

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    Yes & yes :D
     
  13. Jackroadkill

    Jackroadkill Donator

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    Thanks Andy - might look into the buttoning. And no, unfortunately the rifle will be staying with me - until I can swap it for a similarly tuned one in .177...

    Should be all back together by Sunday, so will try for some chrono results then.

    Thought so....!
     
  14. Jackroadkill

    Jackroadkill Donator

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    A couple of pictures for you, John:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    These were post rub-down with wire wool this evening. I've put another coat of Tru-Oil on it, and although it's still not touchable, I think it's going to look amazing! Provided there are no runs, of course.
     
  15. JD

    JD Donator

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    I've thanked you for the above post Jack, but am not sure why and have to ask, are you as tight with the jaffa cakes at tea breaks, as you are with your pictures ?

    And I've got a Hw77 .22 I could offer for a swap, which is nearly a .177. : )
     
  16. Jackroadkill

    Jackroadkill Donator

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    Yes.
     
  17. DenTB

    DenTB Donator

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    Like your clear and easy instructions on that HW my friend . A vid.edited into short sections ,in the same easy to follow style, so to speak. Would get loads of followers on Youtube methinks, What about an HW90 strip, reseal/gasram fix?? Cheers from Perth ,
     
  18. Jackroadkill

    Jackroadkill Donator

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    Hi Den,

    Have never dabbled with a 90 - but watch this space!
     
  19. Jackroadkill

    Jackroadkill Donator

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    Okay, got the rifle back together today. On the first reassembly she was a bit noisy and kicked a bit more that I'd like, so after putting twenty shots through it I stripped it down again and fitted the second Delrin washer to the cocking rod (between the existing washer and the top hat). I thought this might take up the small amount of slack that was present when unlatching the underlever and that this may be the cause of the noise and the slap. Happily, upon reassembly, she came together much better - much quieter and the recoil was limited to a gentle nudge in the shoulder with no muzzle flip. I've since put about ten pellets through and the post-reassembly dieselling has abated.

    The only thing I'm not that chuffed with on the rifle is the moderator; as far as I can tell it doesn't moderate anything. Unfortunately, this being a mk1 97, there's no way of removing the moderator intact. Does anyone know if it's possible to cut the mod off, or will this leave me unable to fit another mod by any means?

    So, just for JD, here are the pics. The stock took five coats of Tru-Oil, gently rubbed down between coats with fine wire wool.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    A recent addition to the WW kits; wasn't that sure if I liked it but have gone with it on this occasion:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Overall I'm very pleased with the way this rifle has turned out; it was pretty average when I got it in terms of performance and aesthetics. A bit of TLC and as you can see she's come out of it quite well. Next job is to chrono it and then find a scope for it - I rather suspect my trusty old Tasco World Class from thirty years ago will do nicely.

    Cheers,

    JR
     
  20. JD

    JD Donator

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    Nice one JRK, going to have to get me some Tru-oil.

    I'm fairly sure the mod come underlever catch is bonded on to the barrel, not sure what adhesive Hw used though, it should be removable with heat, but check to see if there's a little grub screw hiding in there somewhere.
     

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