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Hw100 Stripdown/service.

Discussion in 'Technical' started by engraver, Jul 14, 2014.

  1. engraver

    engraver Keyboard Hero

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    After finding my gun low on power recently I decided to give the gun a strip and service.

    Ill try and do this in sections as simply as possible, Im not going to get anymore complicated than it needs to be and its the first time I personally have had mine apart so hopefully the last for a while, I may need some correction here and there as I don't profess to be anykind of hw100 expert, and Ive done mine without the need of a reg tester although its easier sometimes to have figures its still possible to achieve what you want with a chrono and experimentation.

    I don't have time today to do it all, so the rest will continue, forgive the bad pictures as I just did them on my phone as I stripped the gun not always taking pictures of what Im explaining as I originally took them for my own reference.

    Anyway I ordered my O rings, and molykote 3 grease online, the O ring kit came with a little diagram telling you where each O ring was intended for (basically a technical name), so that's what I would recommend for following my guide so you know what goes where as I didn't measure the O rings, I think the kit was about £10 posted.

    Firstly I removed the stock barrel clamp and cylinder, so the gun looks like this (with the trigger block removed)

    [​IMG]

    Remove the trigger block via the two 5mm bolts at both ends, it just lifts away (make sure the gun isn't cocked)

    Then remove this little square block with allen screw holding it onto the hammer mech,[​IMG]

    I then wanted the hammer out of the gun to degrease it, so firstly you must tap through this pin holding the side lever in position.
    [​IMG]

    I used a bit of wire with a bend in it, as the hole is actually on an angle, [​IMG]


    The hammer and connecting levers should just slide out now, this is what it should all look like, be carefull not to drop the little triangular block as it all slides out because that holds the sidelever return spring.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    You can see the factory grease, so at this point you can degrease everything, not forgetting the inside of the action slot.
    [​IMG]

    You are now ready to separate the two halfs of the action, via these two bolts.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Once removed the two halfs can be persuaded to wiggle apart, gently, and this is what your left with.[​IMG]

    I then removed the barrel via this grub screw, be carefull, it may be worth spraying a bit of wd40 down there beforehand.

    [​IMG]

    So up to this point this is what you end up with, don't worry about the few other bits on the picture below Im getting to that.[​IMG]Ive got to rush now, but this will be continued!!
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2014
    Robbo3 likes this.
  2. SteveO

    SteveO Top Poster

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    This tutorial is going to be very useful and popular methinks! :up:
     
  3. bigbadbear

    bigbadbear Donator

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    :up:spot on top job so far:D:D:D
     
  4. The Robin

    The Robin Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    Looking good, that little triangle block is a little bit of a fiddle when refitting and remember to cock the trigger before refitting, I didn't and it fired on the side lever but I soon worked it out.

    This step by step guide is going to go down a treat, plenty of people have a hw100 but not much of a step by step guide out there, looking forward to the update pics on this :up:
     
  5. meerkat1

    meerkat1 Keyboard Hero

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    just like a haynes manual ... excellent !!
     
  6. engraver

    engraver Keyboard Hero

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    Ok lads so far so good, Ive got another ten minutes or so.

    The next bit is an important part of the gun the breach block.

    [​IMG]

    This is removed via the two 5 mm allen bolts placed diagonally from each other.

    Behind this breach block lies the main valve, and spring, so be carefull as there will be a slight pre load.

    [​IMG]

    As you can see Inside the breach block is where the main valve seats, and there is a small white washer at the end of the hole in the middle, that can be replaced when the gun goes back together, be carefull not to damage the area around where the valve seats.

    [​IMG]

    Around the valve seat area is also a crush washer that is disgarded every time the gun is taken apart and put back together, but iirc if you replace this with a 12x1mm you don't have to replace it everytime.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    What your left with is the front half of the action, I had left my barrel on until this point and as you can see the breach seal on the actual barrel can be replaced if this is damaged or hardened in anyway, to remove it you need a needle or a pin and you can stick it into the seal and lift out to replace a new one, smeared with a little Molykote, this can be done easier with the barrel out.

    [​IMG]

    There were a few tiny marks in my valve seat, so I found a little tap wrench I made, with a rounded end, and using some 0000 wire wool I pushed the round end of the tap wrench in gently and rotated it about a dozen times with light pressure, it was enough to make it shine but be very carefull with this, as too much would render the gun needing a new breach block so, if your not confident leave that area well alone, just clean it with some degreaser and tissue.

    [​IMG]

    After the polish it was shining [​IMG]

    After its all cleaned up the small white washer at the end of the valve seat hole can be replaced, its usually the only white washer in a kit bought to service an hw100, so its unmissable really, it can be pushed out using a match from the backend be very carefull not to scratch this part of the gun with anything hard or sharp otherwise the gun will truly leak, wood is good;) tooth pick would also work.

    Next thing is the regulator.. I may get half an hour later.
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2014
  7. The Robin

    The Robin Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    Keep it coming, this is a cracking thread :up:
     
  8. Meteor62

    Meteor62 Major Poster

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    Yep thousands of spring gun strip downs but hardly any on PCp which takes the fun out of them in my opinion.
     
  9. Mrman

    Mrman Donator

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    Excellent stuff:up:
     
  10. engraver

    engraver Keyboard Hero

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    Ok the Regulator.

    I used a 10 mm long socket to remove this.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Then I reversed the block and measured the depth of the regulator adjustment screw with a vernier caliper, and also marked it with a marker pen.[​IMG] and afterward unscrewed this fully out.[​IMG]

    Inside you find the beville washers stacked in a specific order, I put and allen key down the middle carefully and tipped the action up catching the beville washers in order, they were as follows (()) (()) (()) (()) these can be cleaned with degreaser.[​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    You can then push through the regulator barrel and piston take note where the O rings are [​IMG]

    There is one on the piston itself you can replace, and one on the edge of the piston barrel, its been said to leave the piston O ring dry. which I did on mine.

    This is the Order of what it looks like inside (~EDIT sorry the order below isn't correct- swap the ends around so that the brass piece goes the other end and the black cap at the beville washer end)[​IMG]

    The brass inlet also splits using an 8mm socket and inside is a little spring and a ball bearing plus a tiny O ring, this looked in tact on mine so I just cleaned it and put it back together.

    To be continued.........
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2014
  11. The Robin

    The Robin Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    Looking good, I've never seen so far into the hw100 before so I'm loving this :up:
     
  12. engraver

    engraver Keyboard Hero

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    Ok so when you rebuild the regulator do it in reversal of dissembly, first obviously replace all the O rings you can find in the reg, the reg psiton O ring can be left dry.

    On screwing home the brass inlet actually it actually buts up to the face of the piston barrel on my gun to form a seal, but I believe the older non quickfill versions had a small o ring fitted on the groove machined into the inside, this had me confused for a minute, as I swore mine had no O ring in place when I took it apart (it didn't) but it looked like it needed one, so I didn't put one there, the Older hw100s may need one though, as the regs design has changed slightly over time on the hw100.

    I think the O ring Im talking about on the kit I recieved was named Tension adjuster, please correct me if Im wrong but thats the one I used anyway and it doesn't leak.

    The regulator piston and main valve outlet are the same size o ring.

    Remember to stack the beville washers in the correct order, and make sure they are clean.

    When you come to put the end cap back on (reg pressure adjuster) obviously measure the number of turns exactly and line up your marks alternatively measure the depth again with a vernier, or like me do all three.

    Then your ready for your new white valve stem O ring into the breach block (if you havent already done that) and also your new breech block O ring, this can be seated into the action and screwed down onto, dont put it on your breech block first then screw it down, if you look at the action you will see the small recess cut into it for this O ring, a bit of molykote will hold it in place.

    Take extra care when lining up the main valve stem, into its hole, and remember the valve sping pressure will be against the breach block so wind each screw a half a turn then the other screw half a turn and so on intil it seats home, remember not to over tighten and to keep the main valve seat and face very clean and grease free before the breach block is put back together, as this can be problematic if the gun has shot a lot over the years it may end up with scoring to it, and possibly needing a new valve or at worst a new breach block as it wont seal but that is rare (so Im told), once a cylinder is fitted it will soon let you know, because if this doesnt seal I can imagine it pouring air from around the breech as soon as you start to fill the cylinder, if this happens drain the air and take off the breech block and have a good look for signs of a broken O ring seal as you may have nipped the O ring by accident.

    You can now refit the barrel with its own new breach seel, I butted it up to the breach block and wound the grub screw in finger tight, again dont over tighten as you could easily strip the thread, if threads are clean and dry then the short end of the allen key is enough to tighten the barrel grubscrew.

    Then your ready to attach a Reg tester if you like in the port on the underside of the action block.

    You can then attach a cylinder and fill it up, to read your reg tester gauge and adjust the screw carefully to what pressure you want, I think a .177 carbine should run at 95 bar.

    By attaching the cylinder at this stage it will tell you if there are any obvious leaks in the system before you fully rebuild the gun, it just saves dismantling again.

    Anyway back to the other half of the action, and this brings me onto the Anti tamper removal.

    There is a small grubscrew on the end of the hammer that is sealed with something like loctite, so you must heat this up with a blow lamp or a gas cooker but get it very hot, then try the small grubscrew and it will come out ( eventually)[​IMG]

    Then its a matter of creating a slot to enable you to turn it in or out, but this unfortunately means you may also cut a slot the outer body depending on how deep you go but mine needed some purchase as even holding it in a vice inbetween two wood blocks I had to swing on the screwdriver to get it to move.

    Ill admit I engraved a slot into mine using a dental burr to begin with but this didnt allow me enough purchase to turn the thing so in the end I had to result to a disc in a dremmel type grinder to cut a deeper slot that way, then you can use a screw driver to wind it in or out then lock it back up with your grubscrew and a bit of threadlock.[​IMG][​IMG]

    Dont fit the grubscrew just yet as this can be done with the gun back together and the power checked before locking it up.

    When your refitting the hammer and side lever mechanism, the fiddly bit is the silver key for the side lever spring but you will see how it goes in and drags the spring along with it into the action, then you hook the silver key onto the end of the spring and push the lot forward, before knocking back home the side lever pin.

    Also remember you can fit a new O ring to the probe which is named probe buffer on my kit, then makes the action smoother on fully pushing the side lever forward.

    The runners inside the action for the sidelever mech can be lubed with a dot of light machine oil, as steel and aluminium don't go well together, so just don't let them run dry as a bone as they will eventually start picking up and dragging.

    Then your ready to fit the small square block that cocks your sears on the trigger as the side lever is pulled back.

    Then attach the two halfs of the action via the two main cross bolts holding the two half together, its also a good time to clean the magazine slot from any lead deposit's [​IMG]

    You can then shoot the gun over a chono and adjust your hammer pressure to achieve the power you want then lock it off.

    Just a quick note my gun did exactly the same 10.4 ft/ibs as it did before the service, and I couldn't adjust the power via the hammer in and out made no difference as its all a balance with your reg pressure, it wasn't until I backed off the hammer pressure adjusted my reg pressure very slightly clockwise that the power came to 11.49 with JSB 8.4 grain, and only 11.59 with Bisley magnums which surprised me as I thought it would do more but I tried them just to see what they would do, but it likes JSB or AA field best anyway.

    JSB were far more consistent though the shots are very close together in power and speed like for example,
    11.49
    11.50
    11.48
    11.50
    11.47
    11.50


    Although I didn't use a reg tester and haven't measured the shots per charge as of yet, so it can probably be improved on yet when I get around to it.[​IMG]

    Once all done and locked off you can fit the little cap at the back of the action, fit the barrel clamp the stock and scope and check zero, you can fit new cylinder and barrel O rings in the barrel clamp also as my kit came with them, (but I have an A&M cylinder on my gun so I didn't need the cylinder one).[​IMG]The kit came with a magazine O ring also but Im saving that as a spare because if they aint broke don't fix them.

    I think the most common leak with an hw100 will come from the inlet valve O ring where the cylinder attaches to the reg, and its a dead simple fix without having to strip the gun down, so if you have a leaky gun check this first.


    Hope this has been of help to someone, and please feel free to correct or clarify things on my behalf as like I say it was the first time I had also seen inside my hw100 and I still intend to check the reg pressure and hammer, to get more shots per charge, plus fit an allen screw adjuster rather than my makeshift screw driver slot in the hammer.
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2014
  13. terry1001

    terry1001 Major Poster

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    Thanks for taking the time and putting in the effort to produce something that is really useful, well done :up:
     
  14. Mrman

    Mrman Donator

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    year this is a great thread, very informative :up: thanks for putting it up.
     
  15. engraver

    engraver Keyboard Hero

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    I took an opportunity to test the hw100 tonight.

    At approximately 35yrds this is what it did so Im happy with that,[​IMG][​IMG] [​IMG]

    It shot 4 mags then ran out of puff so its no better and no worse than it what it was, I suppose It could be dropped in power to produce more shots but inmo if a gun is accurate and consistent at 11.5 ish ft/ibs that is more important to me as a hunting gun than a few more shots and lower power.;)

    The pellets used where JSB I don't know what size a I just picked them up from a pile I have although its the same batch I chronoed the gun with, but I think that pea sized group can be made into one hole with no wind as the card was on a tree blowing around with the breeze and it was 7 shots, so bench rested on a static target I think it would be improved on, I know it can do it so put the pea down to driver error.:up:
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2014
  16. Jackroadkill

    Jackroadkill Donator

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    Stickied!
     
  17. engraver

    engraver Keyboard Hero

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    I missed out the picture of measuring the reg depth with a vernier like so, [​IMG]

    You can also mark it with tippex or a marker pen if you don't have a reg tester but I would recommend you doing both;)
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2014
  18. The Robin

    The Robin Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    Great info, thanks for your time showing us all what is what. It's been really interesting following it all :up:
     
  19. engraver

    engraver Keyboard Hero

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    Thanks Simon, Its been a learning curve for me also, I would love to have a play about with a lighter valve spring and reg tester and adjustable hammer to find out what the maximum shots per charge would or could be, Its a job for a rainy winters day;):up:
     
  20. The Robin

    The Robin Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    Yes now that would be interesting but with the sun out it's a job for a rainy day :D

    I've really enjoyed this thread and been one of my fav reads on here this year :up:
     

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