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How to zero a scope

Discussion in 'Stickies Only' started by i8allthepies, May 28, 2009.

  1. Springrrr

    Springrrr Active Member

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    The one thing that I have not seen addressed or maybe I missed it was what could / should be the very first step in the process. That is, centering the scope.

    Turn both windage and elevation knobs to both stops and count the number of clicks or full turns between them. Then set the scope to the middle of each. For instance if there are 10 full turns from one end to another, set the scope to the middle, 5th turn from one end.

    Then take a few shots on a large paper target with an X or O in the middle and see where the pellets are landing.

    If very far off, before doing anything else, the scope should be shimmed or the mounts should be addressed to bring the shot pattern close to the aim point.

    The reason for this that the reticule tube in most scopes is held in place by spring tension. If the scope adjustments are at one end or the other, the tension could be unbalanced to the point the reticule may move from shock and the scope will be forever unstable. Plus the fact, if centered, then you have a full range of adjustment on all sides both up and down.

    After centering my scope by taking a file to my one piece mount to get the horizontal point of impact very close before I even touched the horizontal adjusting knob. I shimmed the scope to get the vertical close also. Now both adjustment knobs are within a few clicks of center at 35 yards.
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2014
  2. culcreuch

    culcreuch Donator

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    Really useful article.....its nine years since I last did this, and there have been many reminders. Thanks!
     
  3. NIVEA

    NIVEA Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    Hiya Andy. well done, I found the information on zeroing a scope interesting and informative . . . . . CHEERS
     
  4. toxo

    toxo Well-Known Member

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    This should indeed be the first step when zeroing a scope.
    Another and perhaps easier method is to simply place a mirror touching the front element of the scope and match up the two crosshair images.
     
    ANCB likes this.
  5. Graham Orm

    Graham Orm Active Member

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    Another method that I came across when learnig the process is :

    Set the gun in a solid position so that it cannot move, preferably sat in a v shaped support.

    Set both turrets to mid adjustment as stated above.

    Now adjust it's position with packing underneath it so that your reticle is bang on the bull of your target without you holding the gun.

    Have your target on a large backer so that you can see where the pellet goes and take a shot without touching the gun, just the trigger.

    Wherever the pellet goes, without moving the gun, very carefully adjust the windage and elevation turrets whilst looking through the scope until the cross hair is on the hole that the pellet made. The cross hair will appear to move as you turn the turrets.

    The scope is now zero'd. Adjust the gun so that the reticle is back on the bull and try again. If you've carried out the process without disturbing the gun when taking the shot or turning the turrets, you should be spot on. Obviously you can go through the process again if it's still a little bit out.
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2017
  6. airsporter(1969)

    airsporter(1969) Engaging Member

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    AO paralax gggrrrr this annoys the life outta me.i zero in from 25 yards,aim at some thing 40-50 yards knowhere near,now then non AO i zero in from 25 yrds smashing off i go hunting blagging allsorts from 30-50 yards,i hate that AO it just complicates things.
     
  7. Farmworker

    Farmworker Active Member

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    And remember you don't need to do your scope fitting up so tight you need an extension bar to undo them, mount tops don't need much more than a few inch lbs to hold them in place and the mount screws don't need to be much more, even on a recoiling air rifle you don't need to have the veins in your neck bulging to keep the scope in place.

    paul
     
  8. john harris

    john harris Posting Addict

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    Hi, newbie here. New rifle ans a Hawke Sindwinder scope 6-24x56. Yet to be zeroed. The top turret has markings 0-14 (subdivided into a further 4). It rotates 4 full turns = 240 clicks. This I have centralised to 120 clicks and repositioned at 0. Side turret is marked 0-7, 7-0, so again, 4 full turns. Centralised to 120 clicks and repositioned to 0. Good. Friend will start from this, zeroing at whatever, say 30 yds. He will be moving both turrets. Should I then reposition the marker to 0 again (and now remember this is at 30yds zero. I will obviously be moving each turrets continuously at each time of use. How do I keep track of where my 0 is ??
    Further Q. (Still don't get it !). When when I alter the magnification, will the POI alter ? I have altered anything else, so why would the POI alter - just don't get it
    Thanks again
     
  9. monsta41

    monsta41 Donator

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    it should have resettable turrets, when you have your zero undo the allen screw on top and rotate the sleve with the numbers to 0 then lock it down, then you can work out the ranges for the markings...then when after you change the range...zero on the scale will be back to where you zeroed at
     
  10. Bigjimknickers

    Bigjimknickers Busy Member

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    that last one has an excellent method!
     
  11. Bigjimknickers

    Bigjimknickers Busy Member

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    Quick question.
    my scope has AO on it, but only down to 30 yards, how do zero at 10 yards? Just leave it on 30?
     
  12. robs5230

    robs5230 Oversprung

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    do you mean its only marked at 30 for the first setting or it wont twist round any lower than 30 ?

    Depending on the scope it may be possible to reparallax it by moving the lenses but that will make all the marked out distances way off. They're unlikely to be accurate as is though.
    Parallax error is increased by high mag so again this is a factor.
    Best advice I could give is physically check whether you have parallax error by looking through the scope and moving your head / eye around the reticule. If the crosshair remains on target, no error regardless of what the graduations say on your AO.

    A scope with parallax correction set at 30 should be useable below 30 as long as mag isnt too high
     
  13. monsta41

    monsta41 Donator

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    that seems a lot..my sidewinder goes down to 10 yards
     
  14. Bigjimknickers

    Bigjimknickers Busy Member

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    It twists lower than 30 but has no marks for 20, to be honest I don’t really understand the marks on it, it seems to jump about?
    i only tried 10 yards as the video stated set the ao to 10 & the mag to maximum ?
     
  15. Mobike

    Mobike Member

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    Brilliant!as someone new to airguns after a 20year break you just answered the question before I posted it : )
     
  16. pjgtech

    pjgtech Where we're going....we don't need roads...

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    What do people us to pack scopes, when centering? I've read about people using small bits of old film and also tinfoil?

    what is your scope packing material of choice and why?

    Ta :cool:
     
  17. Rob-ontarget

    Rob-ontarget Donator

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    In the past ive used cut up beer can.. Dont know if this is the correct way but has always worked fine for me.
     
  18. smithys

    smithys Busy Member

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    as some say yes simple plum line shooting bags or rest couple of little spirit bubbles, set it up right you can zero in five shots total providing weather conditions are perfect for it,
     
  19. TinCan Tony

    TinCan Tony Can I video that?

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    My scope is zero'd perfectly at 25 Metres, but the elevation is cranked up as high as it will go. This means I need a couple of mil dots holdover at 50 Metres. If I want to zero at 50 Metres is this just a case of packing up the front of the scope and then turning the elevation back down to be able to zero at 25 Metres again?. If so, how do I know how much packing (thickness of) to put under the front of the scope? Obviously, if I bought a different scope I'd buy it with new mounts too. That way, I could remove the original scope from the rails with the mounts intact. Does this make sense?

    All suggestions greatly welcome.
     
  20. r10hunter

    r10hunter Honorary Member

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    You need to pack the rear mount not the front one.

    There are various calculators but with an airgun take your bits with you to the range and pack the rear of the scope until you achieve the desired zero.
    There is no reliable way to work it out unless you know a whole load of variables.
    Why do you want to zero at 50 it’s a long way for a reliable zero on an airgun. 30m will give a far truer zero easier.
    If you want to be accurate at 50m a good method is to play with your scope magnification until a mill dot or the top or bottom of one is exactly on.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2018

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