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Question Gunpower Stealth Bushing venting (again)

Discussion in 'Anything Airgun Related' started by carnivore, May 29, 2014.

  1. carnivore

    carnivore Industrious Member

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    Having bought a stock Stealth rifle I am looking to do the usual things to improve the performance. I am not interested in increasing the power but decreasing the 'bark' it makes when shooting. Venting the front barrel bushing is the easiest thing as it allows air to flow into the frame ( I calculate the frame volume minus the barrel and front bushing volume @ 31.1 cc. However, if I vent the rear bushing as well I can access a further 15cc of space in the preload spacer. If I were too fill the breech end of the preload spacer with a tight fitting rubber bung backed up with a washer to take the spring pressure, surely, I must achieve a better result? What do you think?
     
  2. vitalich

    vitalich Keyboard Hero

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    i had both bussings drilled through on my stealth (and it was factory-made or some kind professionally made kit),

    two things i've added to it:
    - added 7 washers ans 8 spacers to standard moder (8 chambers)
    - added some soft syn-fiber wrap round the barrel between bussings (I think wire wool can be also used nicely)
    All this allowed to seriously reduce sound level
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2014
  3. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    I wouldn't use wire wool,if it ever gets wet or damp,the rust fuses it together and it pretty much sets solid.
     
  4. vitalich

    vitalich Keyboard Hero

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    Sure stainless or non-ferrous wire wool should be used, not B&Q one.

    Like this

    http://m.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=stainless+steel+steel+wool&_pgn=1&aspects=MT_ID=10&cmd=SREF
     
  5. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    Stainless would be fine,its used in cars for that exavt reason.
     
  6. ALEXON

    ALEXON Engaging Member

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    Drilled bushings, not advisable to drill the rear bush. You run the risk of lead dust blowing back into your face. Further the lead dust will accumulate on the internals gumming everything up over time.
     
  7. oliver13

    oliver13 Donator

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    Eh?

    This is a new one to me, do you have anymore information? I've never seen any lead dust anywhere associated with airguns but if there is I'd like to know about it - I don't want to breath any for a start.
     
  8. ALEXON

    ALEXON Engaging Member

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    Re., lead dust, if you have ever dismantled a moderator that is well used the lead dust will be quite visible inside. You may not be aware of any blowback but it will be there. So proceed at your own risk !!!!
     
  9. oliver13

    oliver13 Donator

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    Fair enough, sounds like it is a component of the muzzle blast so I shouldn't be too worried, as long as I'm at the breech end when it's fired. Cheers.
     
  10. carnivore

    carnivore Industrious Member

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    All good stuff and food for thought. The possibility of lead dust had occurred to me and the inclusion of an o ring between the rear bushing and the preload spacer seemed a good idea. Between the bushings I had thought of cutting 1 inch 'washers' of Scotchbrite and threading them onto the barrel which should also act to collect any dust. Too much?
     
  11. vitalich

    vitalich Keyboard Hero

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    Have you ever seen the stesls not on pix?
    Have you ever had any shrouded barrel?
     
  12. ALEXON

    ALEXON Engaging Member

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    Good man, erring on the side of caution can,t be bad. Any mod to prevent lead dust blowback makes good sense.
     
  13. carnivore

    carnivore Industrious Member

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    At last I bought a drill press and committed to venting the front bushing on my Stealth in the hope of reducing the muzzle report. I took my inspiration for this modification from postings on the American TalonAirgun.com website in regard to their TalonSS rifle which benefits from bush venting but now I doubt that it benefits the Stealth.
    The Stealth has a 305mm (12inch) barrel and is 125mm from end cap to rear bushing. The frame volume from end cap to rear bushing is around 59cc with only about 5cc ahead of the barrel.
    The Talon SS (or our Shadow) also has a 305mm (12 inch) barrel and is 200mm from end cap to rear bushing giving around 95cc, 31cc of which ahead of the barrel.
    That extra space facilitates some decompression of the high pressure air and allows it to find its way back through the vented bushing and into the frame whereas the Stealth spits its HPA straight into the end cap. It should be remembered that America does not allow removable silencers/moderators and so internal silencing such as the ‘Sound-Loc’ baffle set is their way of dealing with the powerful air blast. In the U.K. we can rely on removable silencers/moderators and so the frame length can be minimised in this rifle.
    My conclusion is that I have performed a modification that has afforded no real benefit but which has not marred the rifle, so it was worth a try. If you are considering this I would advise you not to put yourself to the effort.
     
  14. vitalich

    vitalich Keyboard Hero

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    How big are your drills?
    If you add some fiber or rr wirewool wrap around the barrel?
    How did you measured sound level before/after?
     
  15. ALEXON

    ALEXON Engaging Member

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    Good sound moderation on a Stealth can be achieved by fitting a HW silencer via an adaptor!
     
  16. carnivore

    carnivore Industrious Member

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    Vitalich:
    I drilled my bushing with 5 x 3.5mm holes, countersunk on both sides. I haven't tried any packing because it occurred to me, after drilling, that the HPA has no time to decompress before exiting the end cap and that packing the space probably wouldn't make any difference. I only used a couple of pairs of ears to measure the sound and the best I achieved was to flatten a 'crack' into 'boom'. The only way so quieten this rifle is an external moddy, I think.

    Alexon:
    If I can ever get the G.P bean can open I will try to 'weihrauch' it and see where I go from there. After that it will be an adaptor and maybe an MWSS delrin moddy. I am quite tempted to try one of these:

    http://www.mixcthecity.com/Tactical...ise-Reduction-For-AirForce-TalonP-p-3668.html

    as they're made for the TalonP which has the same frame and barrel but I can't get any info on how effective the 'Sound-Loc' system is!
    Any information you can offer will be studied with interest, Airgunners!
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2014
  17. ALEXON

    ALEXON Engaging Member

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    Good day carnivore, there,s a web site across the pond(Talon airgun forum). Give it a Google & do a search for Sound loc system, you may well get the answers you require plus a lot of other useful info., You should be aware that the Stealth produces a lot of noise via hammer slap and you will be aware of this when firing even with a moderator in place. However in my view it is not worth the effort to modify. The hammer slap does not carry the same as the muzzle crack. Anyway good luck with your project. A.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2014
  18. carnivore

    carnivore Industrious Member

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    I've been looking at the TalonAirGuns site for a while, Alexon, but to date have failed to find any quantitative measure of the Sound-Loc's effectiveness. There is a Youtube video on how to fit it but no mention of how well it works, which is frustrating. As far as the GP 'bean can' goes,I can't get the da*n thing open! I've tried heating it and hammering from inside but to no avail. I'm starting to think it's screwed together! Of course, I don't want to damage it but if I can get it apart by some novel method I'll share it with the community. Cheers!!
     
  19. ALEXON

    ALEXON Engaging Member

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    Good day carnivore, if what you are trying is on a tight budget then ok., However you are using a sledge hammer to crack a walnut. Get the adaptor and HW silencer the calibre of your gun. I take it you are non fac? Using the bean can may well cause you problems due to its size, washers & spacers will be hard to locate and will probably have to be bespoke. Anyway ask on here someone may well have done it. An adaptor can be obtained via the bay,s/h silencers do come up for sale but you always have to pay top money to get one. A.
     
  20. Richardhw

    Richardhw Engaging Member

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    The standard bean can usually comes apart fairly easily, you insert a rod through the threaded end and gently tap it around the circumference of the end cap. they are not screwed on, just a push fit so can be tapped out. the trick is not to be too hard on it as you can stretch the metal causing it to be a slack fit on re assembly.
    I also tried drilling the front bush with no noticable improvement, packing the bean can however was worthwhile.
     

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