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Advice Getting the cylinder end off a S200 cylinder.

Discussion in 'Anything Airgun Related' started by Ouch!, Nov 12, 2015.

  1. bugbug

    bugbug Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    bunting ford, Herts
    Have a look at the air arms owners web site , there's a lot of info on the s 200, I have one myself, there's a chap called raj on there who is the guru of the s200 he has a method of removing the end.
     
  2. Ouch!

    Ouch! Donator

    Messages:
    192
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    Location:
    Brentwood Essex
    Right! Thanks to everyone that made suggestions here....With your help; I did it!

    I left lots of WD40 in the cylinder overnight to soak into the threads.

    Then I replaced my soft jaws on my vise with thin strips of soft wood 1.5 inches wide. Then tightening up on the threads with the old brass end installed, I was able to generate enough grip to finally get the stilsons on there (with the XTX tool) and whack them with a hammer.

    This got the thing loose and after a good clean, to get all the WD40 off, I installed my regulator. No evidence of any loctite.

    I managed it without heat and so I'm chuffed!

    I actually found less clamping area with thin strips of softwood provided better grip.

    b****r me, it was tight!

    Thanks for all the help!

    Ouch!
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2015
  3. Ouch!

    Ouch! Donator

    Messages:
    192
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    Location:
    Brentwood Essex
    Oh, and thanks to Derrin from XTX who got back to me and offered to try and get the thing loose for me too.

    Ouch!
     
  4. Paddler

    Paddler Donator

    Messages:
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    Location:
    South Devon where the cream goes on first!
    I'm glad you got it sorted... The chap who once owned my 200 chewed the valve end up a treat. Thankfully when it came to my turn it was hand tight! Think there can be a stick slip action between brass a steel.. The previous person may of only lightly done it up...

    That can happen typically say between stainless on stainless. I wonder if a micro smear of molykote would help disassembly in the future.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2015
  5. Jack's Da

    Jack's Da Donator

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Sunny Sunderland
    I managed to snap the pin on mu xtx tool when I tried. I wouldn't recommend this job to anyone as it a total nightmare. I'm still stuck :eek:
     
  6. Darren Petts

    Darren Petts Temporarily Alive

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Wakefield
    I used the old two x M5 bolts and a large adjustable method.

    Thinking back I remember having to use a hammer to whack the adjustable to shock the thing. Not easy when you are also holding a boa with the other hand! Must have had help but the memory fails me on that one. I do remember the hammer bit though.
     
  7. Ouch!

    Ouch! Donator

    Messages:
    192
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    Location:
    Brentwood Essex
    The way I did it:
    Soaked the whole thing in WD40 or another release oil overnight.(Inside especially).
    Then, to grip the tube at the opposite end with the vice and two thin strips of sacrificial softwood (30mm x 10mm).
    This was on the brass & threads of the other end where the tube is supported by the brass.
    Then, with a real heavy amount of pressure put on by the vice, putting a major dent in the wood!
    I put the XTX tool on the offending end, holding the pins tight in the holes by wrapping with electrical tape.
    Then, with 18inch stilsons, I hit the end of the stilsons with a hammer to shock the threads apart.

    This wasn't easy, but the key is definately generating enough grip in your vice so that it doesn't spin when to try to undo things.

    Best of luck

    Ouch!
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2015
  8. cloverleaf

    cloverleaf Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Oxfordshire
    Similarly I finally got a happy ending with the one I was working on too :)

    Figuring the tube was scrap if I couldn't get the ends out I held it as tight as I could along its length in a vice, using a set of standard flat soft-jaws. Got the tool in the other end and gave it a sharp smack with a mallet, and all became free!

    In retrospect trying to pack out shaped jaws with rubber don't work as it deflects too much, reducing the effectiveness of sharp impacts. Likewise the oil I'd emptied down the cylinder had convincingly failed to make it's way into the threads, so I doubt this helped.

    The heat-cycling might have contributed towards getting the bits apart - however looking at the mechanism that holds the two bits together I don't think the application of heat will help while attempting to separate the bits. This is because the brass will expand at a greater rate than the steel and even if we could heat the steel tube in isolation from the brass end, (the ideal being to expand the steel radially, reducing it's engagement with the threads on the tube) it's still going to expand longitudinally and further increase the load between the two parts.

    In future I reckon the best bet is some shaped jaws about 5" long to run along the length of the cylinder, made out of something resilient and grippy but not elastic - like Acetal or Nylon..
     

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