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fixing gun cabinet to wall, semi detached house?

Discussion in 'Anything Airgun Related' started by mattgriff88, Feb 15, 2014.

  1. mattgriff88

    mattgriff88 Busy Member

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    Hi, i live in a semi detached house that was built in 2011.
    I need to fix a cabinet to a wall and was hoping to put it on to the wall separating the 2 houses.

    I have drilled a small hole to find out whats behind the plasterboard, Basically I have around a 1 inch thick plasterboard and then a 12/13 inch cavity filled with what looks like insulation like the stuff you have in a attic.

    I have poked a metal rod through and im hitting a solid wall after 12/13 inches which is either my next door neighbours plaster board or concrete block or brickwork.

    Any idea if there is a concrete block separating the 2 houses or do new builds only have a cavity filled with insulation?

    Thanks
     
  2. reaper6

    reaper6 Banned

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    Put it on a outside wall in a modern house it will usually mean that its breeze block....no worries though use a chemical fixer for your anchor bolts and it should be fine
     
  3. OzzyJ

    OzzyJ Donator

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    is it a brick built house or a timberframe house with brick rain screen? If its the latter your party wall will be two leaves of timber frame clad with plasterboard and mineral fibre insulation in between. If you have a timber frame house your only option is to anchor to the timber studs as i would recommend plasterboard fixings for a gun cabinet
     
  4. themadspread

    themadspread Donator

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    if your house is dot and dabbed behind it your jack wall (dividing wall)should be a 9 inch concreete block laid flat on its back unless its timber framed.
     
  5. oliver13

    oliver13 Donator

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    Anything is possible with modern builders, the best thing is to make a proper hole & check it out - & hope you don't end up next door...

    If there is some blockwork in there, you can put in rawl bolts or whatever without falling foul of the Party Walls Act, but Reaper6 has a good point - is that the only suitable wall you have?
     
  6. OzzyJ

    OzzyJ Donator

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    He is going to struggle with rawl bolts if its 12-13 inches between the pb and the block. Normally dot and dab would be less than an inch to the block and if its insulated and battened it would be no more than 3 or so inches. i thick its most likely to be a timber frame party wall even if its a brick construction. If there was a foot to the blockwork on both sides of the wall then thats alot of wasted floor space in the average house.
     
  7. mattgriff88

    mattgriff88 Busy Member

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    I was planning on chemical fixing threaded bar with resin.

    yeah it is the only place suitable to be honest, im going to drill a bigger hole I think and have a proper look as mentioned.

    cheers
     
  8. mattgriff88

    mattgriff88 Busy Member

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    Definetley plasterboard and then 12inch cavity filled with insulation and im now expecting it is my neighbours plasterboard im hitting.

    Its shocking to be honest thinking thats all separating me and my neighbour is 2 sheets of plasterboard and some loft insulation.
     
  9. OzzyJ

    OzzyJ Donator

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    perfectly normal but dont go drilling no exploratory holes through into their bedroom;)
     
  10. mattgriff88

    mattgriff88 Busy Member

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    Lol funny you should say that as I was going to drill as i though there was definitely some block or brick then I thought I better not just in case, im sure my neighbour wouldn't be best pleased haha
     
  11. darklord

    darklord Can’t beat a tx200 at 30m

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    plaster board fixings and coach bolts to the floor. mines fine FEOs happy and its solid
     
  12. OzzyJ

    OzzyJ Donator

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    Good idea if its a solid floor. If its timber frame then you will most likely only have 18mm chipboard and I joists to fix to which isnt that solid.
     
  13. mattgriff88

    mattgriff88 Busy Member

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    there is good odds that there is only a sheet of cardboard seperating upstairs and downstairs going on the walls.
     
  14. OzzyJ

    OzzyJ Donator

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    You might be lucky, it might be corrugated cardboard:D
     
  15. Clubshot

    Clubshot Clubshot

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    Do not forget if it's a Fire Arm , Most Fire Arms Officers seem to want to stated where it Should be located -

    Mine is a old house - Lifted floor boards and put in concrete Base - which we secured it in bottom and back

    BOB/R
     
  16. Chinnymonster81

    Chinnymonster81 Busy Member

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    Does your ground floor have a concrete base? If so use a downstairs cupboard and fix to the floor. Then use another set of more appropriate anchors for the wall They will stop it rocking but the floor will supply the solid fix (unless you have the space to lay it flat), modern houses are rubbish for fixing anything securely to a wall. I hate my 1890's Victorian house but at least I know I have brickwork under the crap plaster.
     
  17. Chinnymonster81

    Chinnymonster81 Busy Member

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    They only need to put a nine inch dividing wall in, you probably have a timber frame divider with no blockwork, especially as you are going 12 inches before hitting something that seems solid. It's possible you have 12 inches of insulation each side and a solid block in the middle but very unlikely as that is a huge amount of space to loose as someone else mentioned. My Nans old 1950's prefab was the same. You could hear next door tear their toilet paper. One good kick and you're in nextdoors house. They don't build dividing walls anymore for security as you don't expect your neighbour to smash down the wall to get inside your house.
     
  18. danlightbulb

    danlightbulb Engaging Member

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    Modern houses are a joke, really are. The internal walls in my house are only about 3" thick and hollow, no chance of fixing anything to them.

    But to discover that you don't even have a solid dividing wall between two houses, well that's just awful it really is. Based on what I have read here, I think if I ever bought a new build house I'd be asking for the construction drawings before purchase.
     
  19. mattgriff88

    mattgriff88 Busy Member

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    drilled a test hole to the outside wall.

    There is a 1inch plasterboard, 10 inch cavity filled with insulation, a sheet of chipboard, 2 inch cavity, brickwork.

    the brickwork is only 1 layer wide so no blockwork at all.

    not what I was expecting.
     
  20. EULA1965

    EULA1965 Engaging Member

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    Use long lengths of studding, chemical anchored in,only prob you need long tube on chemical anchor resin gun, so will loose abit, or reinforce wall with big battens each side and in between foe coach bolts, thev platerboard must be fixed to something so theres a starting point
     

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