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Erma Elg 10, project continues

Discussion in 'Vintage collectable airguns' started by Deejayuu, Sep 22, 2014.

  1. Deejayuu

    Deejayuu Donator

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  2. flatrajectory

    flatrajectory Keyboard Hero

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    Looking fab. Fingers crossed for you.

    Pete.
     
  3. davymole

    davymole Donator

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    shows you have more patience than me ,dave
     
  4. Deejayuu

    Deejayuu Donator

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    Managed a bit more on the Erma. Ditched the aluminium flitches for stainless.
    View attachment 108420 View attachment 108421 View attachment 108422

    The fit is quite faithful by my standards. A slight kink in the alignment along piston slide which may be fixable with sensitive dressing of holes around the bosses
    before final fix. Must go. Got some screws to find and trim to length.
     
  5. Deejayuu

    Deejayuu Donator

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  6. 1961nuffield

    1961nuffield Honorary Member

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    I'd use a bit of thread lock if the part is subject to vibration.

    John
     
  7. Deejayuu

    Deejayuu Donator

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  8. Deejayuu

    Deejayuu Donator

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    Spring/piston service Erma Elg 10

    Well how I do it!
    Remove single stock screw and slide stock backwards out of frame
    Remove 4 cover screws and slowly slide cover up and off frame taking note of safety catch/spring which is not fixed in situ.
    [​IMG]
    Beware most pins in trigger block, anti bear trap etc are a light push fit and can work loose during handling so tape both faces if unsure
    Press/Punch out the barrel/dummy magazine pins from right to left. Fiddly but I prefer to press interference fits in/out. Less risky.
    [​IMG]
    Barrel/mag and stock for-end can be removed from frame as a unit but I prefer to remove separately.
    Clamp the frame firmly in soft jaws :rolleyes:
    [​IMG]
    Fit spring clamp. Note the small socket as a dolly to protect the soft barrel housing.
    [​IMG]
    Use a soft lever to raise the spring/guide a little to enable the clamp fork to fully engage the spring coils.
    [​IMG]
    Compress spring just enough to clear the frame and slide soft lever to support the cylinder/piston assy.
    [​IMG]
    Now the tricky bit. Carefully release the spring force. Beware the tendency to "knee-joint" as the spring guide clears the piston bore.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Spring/guide/piston can now be removed leaving the compression cylinder in place.
    The cylinder is connected to the cocking linkage by interference fit pins accessed by disconnecting the main cocking link.
    The main cocking link pin is a light push fit.Note return spring.
    I then remove the one indicated by the screwdriver. This is also "handed" but looking carefully the splined end can be seen so press/punch from opposite side.
    [​IMG]
    Reassemble in reverse order. Place spring in link. Slide link/spring into position to insert main pivot pin. I find it useful to feed the hook end through
    the cocking slot (2nd photo) temporarily.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Now the hook end can be pushed down through the slot and the spring locating pin inserted.
    The sleeve was puckering with the spring so I had overdone the wraps. Hence stiff cocking. Outer sleeve modified guide sleeve unchanged.
    [​IMG]
    Cocks and fires nicely to me. Then again I'm no judge.
    [​IMG]

    If anyone needs this as a document ask away. ;) Apologies for any talking down. Just trying to help :confused:

    Blemish on stock is reflection from my teeth :D
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2015
  9. Deejayuu

    Deejayuu Donator

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    Been asked about muzzle energy but I have not tested it except the time honoured "galvanised bin"!
    Here's the bean can at say 10 yds.

    Entry Exit
    View attachment 109317 View attachment 109318 Very pleased for such a small compression volume.

    I feel a trip to Daveymole coming up. Just hope he hasn't shot his Chrimbo present to bits yet!
     

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