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Good news DIY HOME MADE MOD -Cheap-easy-effective-make your own silencer

Discussion in 'Anything Airgun Related' started by Nubble, May 4, 2017.

  1. Nubble

    Nubble Donator

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    DIY HOME-MADE MOD

    Step by step guide on how to construct a cheap and effective moderator for little or no cost. All of the materials can be sourced quite easily but I just used what I had to hand.


    Firstly the design brief for this mod was that it was to fit a Crosman 2250 and it had to be made out of bits I had lying around at home (no financial outlay). Now I'm very practical and have an inquisitive mind, so for those of you that don't I thought I would take a few snaps of my latest creation in the hope that you can use and adapt to suit your own needs.
    The first moderator I made (MK1) was 130mm long and made of plastic pipe and used the neck and cap off a couple of pop bottles for baffles.It was more of an experiment than anything. The MK2 had a cotton wool fill, then I discovered hair curlers and ureka! MK3 which is 180mm. I was curious if the extra 40mm would make it any quieter.


    OK so here are the bits you will need plus the most basic of tools, drill, stanley knife, junior hacksaw and maybe some 5 min epoxy.
    Materials:
    180mm x 32mm dia waste pipe (black) - 200mm x 15mm polypipe (white) - 4 half inch washers - Hair curlers; I used 3 different sizes 15mm, 25mm, 40mm 3 of each. Note It's the 25mm ones which are important. Plus a cork or two.
    View attachment 158397


    Cut both pipes to your desired length. This one has a 180mm body with the 'inner' pipe protruding 20mm at the 'adaptor' end so whatever your chosen length cut the small pipe 20mm longer than the 'body'. I have the luxury of owning a half inch UNF tap (oooohhh) so I have cut a thread in one end and screwed in an adaptor for the Crosman. This is purely for illustrative purposes so you can see which end is which during all stages of the assembly. If you do not have a tap buy one, or if you have a 13mm drill bit you can carefully ream out one end of the pipe which can be screwed onto an adaptor or perhaps the end of your barrel.
    View attachment 158398


    Next I drill a series of holes along the length of the 15mm pipe. I start 40mm from the 'adaptor' end with a 3mm bit and drill at 15mm intervals making sure the drill is passing thru both sides of the pipe. I then rotate through 90 degrees and drill a second set of holes which are exactly half way between the first set of holes. I then repeat the whole process using a 5mm drill bit.
    Drilling the first row of 3mm holes
    View attachment 158399


    I then countersink all of the holes by hand removng any burrs etc in the theory it will allow the air to escape easier. I also run a round file down the inside of the pipe and generally fiddle and fettle it with a combination of needle files and Stanley knife!! I also take off the shiny finish from the pipe to help the glue 'key' later. It should look something like this now....
    View attachment 158400


    Next the hair curlers. I remove the (pink!) outer covering from the smallest and largest curlers. Keep the 25mm ones intact they are important and are an integral part of this unique ! design. Cut the covering from the large roller in half ACROSS it's length. i.e. from one side to the other NOT one end to the other.
    View attachment 158401


    Next wrap the piece of covering from the smallest curler around the pipe and slide on one of the washers to the midway point of the pink covering. This will also help to hold it in place for the next stage. I actually found it easier to slide the material inside the washer, then slide onto the pipe. Study the photo. It should explain all..................
    View attachment 158406


    Repeat this so you have two sections with two washers on the pipe. Next wrap the half section from the big (40mm) roller around the pipe, over the top of the first layer (so the joints are staggered) and inbetween the washers. There will be a very slight overlap. Now remove one of the washers making sure that the first layer stays in place (In the photo it is the uppermost washer to the left hand side) Take the 25mm roller and slide it into place over the first and second layers until it sits against the lowermost (adaptor) end. Slide back on the washer you removed, easing over the first layer until it sits against the 25mm roller. See the next photo you can just make out all 3 layers.
    Sliding the 25mm curler down over the first two layers
    View attachment 158407
    Curlers in place ready for second washer....
    View attachment 158408


    Repeat until you reach within 20-25mm of the end of the pipe. Next I trial fit one of the corks inside the 32mm pipe. I then cut a 5mm piece of cork from the section with the most snug fit and drill the centre out to 14 or 15mm. You can of course cut a square out with a stanley knife and 'backfill' with epoxy later but it must centralise on the inner pipe. Next I noticed a rubber doorstop on the workbench and with a bit of cutting, drilling and fettling with the stanley knife I had a very reasonable 'plug' for the end. *Note. The humble stanley knife is the most usefull of tools and it never ceases to amaze me the number of times it can be called into action! If there isn't a Saint Stanley then there should be!
    Cork and doorstop!
    View attachment 158409
    Next photo shows finished assembly prior to final fix!
    View attachment 158410


    With this next step it makes sense to do a trial fit before final assembly. *See note at end of section.
    Assuming you have got 'just the right fit' with the door stop, insert the inner assembly (ooh technical term) into the 32mm pipe, doorstop end first. Push the entire assembly inside and thru the 32mm pipe until the doorstep protrudes approx 15-20mm out from the end. It should be a nice snug fit. Mix up some epoxy resin and apply a very small amount around the doorstop where it meets the (black) pipe, like barely a smear, like the least you can get on there with one of those coffee sticks you get from KFC, not great big blobs, and then carefully push the doorstop back into the pipe slowly and watch for glue oozing out. If it does you have either reached the perfect point or you have put way too much on..................! I warned you !............... So wipe it off very carefully and push until it fits pleasingly in the end of the pipe. This is down to you. Mine sits about half a mil proud with a perfect bead of epoxy around the join between pipe and doorstop. If you rotate gently and slowly for a while the epoxy will set nice and even. Beware tho as it has a tendancy to 'creep' when you are not looking and you will end up with a blob somewhere........once the epoxy has finally cured I then fix the opposite end sliding the final washer into place and seating it on the curlers with a squash before applying epoxy to the edge of the washer (inside the pipe) and the centre of the washer. I'm aiming for a nice 'bed' of epoxy on which to seat the last piece of cork and seal everything in place. This piece of cork is slighly thicker at around 10mm thick (or whatever suits). Slide the cork onto the pipe and ease it down onto the epoxy slowly and gently. If you have the perfect fill of epoxy you should notice a slight hint of it around the inner and outer edges of the cork as it begins to ooze out. Again stand it on it's end or rotate it gently for around 20mins checking now and again for runs etc.


    For the last stage I will post the finished article in the following post as for some reason I cannot load the last two photos...........
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2017
    Drumdrumman likes this.
  2. Nubble

    Nubble Donator

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    The last stage. I have simply covered it with camo gorilla tape and I think it looks ok. Obvoiusly the adaptor is still in place to illustrate which end is which. Quite impressive for a few hours work and shows what maybe an over active imagination does. I was just a bit bored one evening!
    View attachment 158411

    Think you will agree the finished article is rather pleasing.
    View attachment 158412

    The best bit is that it cost me nothing however if you wanna have a go at making one then this is your outlay.

    Cost if you were to buy everything!
    15mm pipe £1.89 (2 metres)
    32mm pipe £2.09 (2 metres)
    4 half inch washers £0.10 (I bought 100 washers for £1.09)
    Hair curlers - Poundland
    Epoxy - Poundland (I used a 5 min modellers epoxy. Poundland stuff works tho)
    Cork - Free with every bottle of Cava (treat the missus)

    Testing.
    First impressions are..... well..... impressive. There is no audible note from the muzzle on firing, just a loud (quiet) 'cluck' from the internals of the gun and the 'dunk' as the pellet hits the pellet trap. It works wonderfully. I have not tried it on any other of my rifles yet but on the Crosman the effect is amazing.



    *Additional notes. Once my trial fit of everything was complete I dis-assembled it all and fixed the rubber doorstop onto the end of the pipe using epoxy resin. I stood it upright on a bench and held it in place with 4 carpenters squares to ensure it was sitting square. Watch out for the epoxy running into the inner pipe. The trick is to mix a tiny amount and apply just the bare minimum to hold everything in place, let it dry and apply a second 'reinforcement' coat (technical term). Once that was cured I then reassembled it all from the adaptor end fixing the cork in place first. I then slid everything back on ensuring it was a good fit against the cork. The exit hole in the doorstop is 8mm.


    I hope you find this useful and interesting and can put it to good use, maybe tweak or adapt it to suit your own preferences. I have had only a short amount of time using it so far but I will in due course be testing it out on other guns to see how effective it is on those! but if it can silence the Crosman then it must be doing well.
    Please feel free to leave any comments or advice that may be of help to any other members wishing to have a go at making their own.
    Thanks for reading and be careful with that Stanley knife Eugene.
    Nubble.
    3/4/17
    :) :thumb:
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2017
    shadowryder, Sanguinius and David M like this.
  3. PumpnGun

    PumpnGun Donator

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    Good post Nubble :up:

    Ray
     
  4. Nubble

    Nubble Donator

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    Thanks Ray. Took a while to work out how to load text and photos........
     
  5. Drumdrumman

    Drumdrumman Engaging Member

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    Hi Nubble do you have any re-posts of this where you can see the attachments..You still Salopia based ...:)
     
  6. TargetVermin

    TargetVermin Engaging Member

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    I can’t see the pictures either :down:
     
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  7. carnivore

    carnivore Big Poster

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    No piccies here! Try again please Nubble.
     
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  8. Nubble

    Nubble Donator

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    Sorry Mr Carnivore, it was posted before the forum swap over hence the lack of photies!!
    :thumb:
     
  9. Davie82

    Davie82 Engaging Member

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    This question could easily have been asked in PM! Last reply to this thread before today was May 2017... :facepalm:
     
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  10. cbrdave

    cbrdave Nuts

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  11. shauny

    shauny Top Poster

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    and you really felt the need to post this??o_O
     
  12. Davie82

    Davie82 Engaging Member

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    Sorry mate - should I have asked for your permission first?
     
  13. Nubble

    Nubble Donator

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    Ok. Thread update for those wanting photos :D

    @Drumdrumman @TargetVermin @carnivore @cbrdave

    Plus any others looking this up I hope this goes some way to explaining the process in pictorial format.

    Cheers

    Nubble
    :thumb:



    PARTS YOU WILL NEED

    [​IMG]

    REMOVE COVERING FROM BIG AND SMALL CURLERS, KEEP MEDIUM SIZE AS THEY ARE.....
    [​IMG]



    HOLES DRILLED, COUNTERSUNK, DE-BURRED

    [​IMG]

    ASSEMBLING THE INTERNALS

    [​IMG]

    KEEP GOING, SHOULD LOOK LIKE THIS, LAST SECTION TO GO ON....

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    ASSEMBLED PRIOR TO TEST FIT

    [​IMG]


    FINISHED ITEM IN GORILLA TAPE CAMO WRAP.
    (adaptor for illustration/orientation only)

    [​IMG]



    Hope that helps

    :thumb:
     
  14. cbrdave

    cbrdave Nuts

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    Lovely job cheers bud:thumb:
     
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  15. Nubble

    Nubble Donator

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    No worries.
    :thumb:
     
  16. carnivore

    carnivore Big Poster

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    If the question had been sent as a PM Nubble would not have furnished us with the excellent pictures for everyone to benefit from. Would he?
     
  17. Nubble

    Nubble Donator

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    Indeed not, I would have repeatedly typed out the same answer (roughly), just as I have done twice in as many weeks... :D


    This way I'm saving myself some time. ;)

    (and obviously giving all members the benefit of viewing the acclaimed 'excellent pictures' that Mr carnivore refers to).

    :thumb:
     
  18. Davie82

    Davie82 Engaging Member

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    Fair play - I thought it was yet another needless thread necro, and instead it's worked out just fine. Props to you Nubble for taking the time to re-share the requested pictures. :thumb:
     
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  19. Drumdrumman

    Drumdrumman Engaging Member

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    Nice one Nubble... Many thanks for the pics... :)
     
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  20. Nubble

    Nubble Donator

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    No problem gents. Happy to oblige. Took me a little while to find the pictures. Can't guarantee they are the exact same ones and maybe missing a couple but you get the gist and there for all to see now.

    Cheers
    :thumb:
     

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