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Technical Cp1 Stripdown Guide (cp2)

Discussion in 'Air Pistols' started by Nubble, Apr 4, 2019.

  1. Nubble

    Nubble Donator

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    CP 1 Strip-down guide

    A step by step guide on how to strip your CP 1 pistol (or CP 2).

    [​IMG]

    Well I have finally taken the time and got round to writing this guide and uploading it to the forum for anyone new to the CP1 or for any forum members wanting to carry out any modifications to their CP1. This could include any cleaning, polishing or maintenance work, swapping a trigger spring, hammer spring or even if you get a stuck Co2 bulb.

    The whole process is very simple and can be tackled by pretty much anyone, it requires the minimum of tools (a couple of hex keys) and takes about 20 mins.



    I know this subject has already been covered on this forum before and admit I am not the first to have written instructions on ‘HOW TO….’
    https://www.airgunforum.co.uk/commu...-trophy-pistol-stripdown.194015/#post-1240752 by @RichieRich
    however since the forum switch over it is now missing it's photos which add to the description.
    As a result I thought I would do a bit of a thread update and strip my CP1 and record each step for anyone wanting to do the same.

    I have found that removing and assembling the parts in the order described is the best way that works for me especially paying attention to the notes on reassembly. Depending on your situation and what you want to achieve you may or may not have to remove all of the parts listed.



    A brief description…...

    The CP 1 is available under different guises, SMK Trophy, Kandar, Silesia, Zasdar, Air force etc but essentially they are all the same gun the only main difference being which side the cocking bolt is on and a variation in stock design.

    The CP2 is similar in construction with just a few minor differences. Where possible I have included these in the instructions.


    The CP 1 [CP 2] is an extremely easy gun to work on. Cheap, widely available, accurate, simple in design and construction, fun to shoot and it is an incredibly capable and enjoyable little pistol. In standard form out of the box it is perhaps a little clunky for my liking but it takes very little to get this lovely little pistol shooting nice and sweet.

    [​IMG]



    To start……

    MAKE SURE YOUR GUN IS SAFE.

    That means remove any Co2 bulbs and make sure it is not loaded before starting any work.

    It sounds common sense and it is!


    It helps if you have a bench, table-top, workmate etc. You can even do it in your lap if you like but a bench or table is better so that you can lay the parts out systematically as you remove them. Take photos before you remove parts and as you go if you are not sure, it will help you remember how it all goes back together again! I tend to work off a board laid across my lap and use an old sweatshirt to sit the gun on whilst working on it, I then spread the parts out on the bench as I remove them.



    Tools……

    [​IMG]

    A 2.5mm and 3mm hex key (2mm for cp2)

    A small pokey instrument such as small precision screwdriver, hex key, toothpick etc.

    A little moly grease for the reassembly of the hammer etc.

    It helps if you have a rag or two so you can clean parts as you remove them.



    One further note, for clarification where I state “remove the 2.5mm bolt” I am referring to the size of hex key required for the head not the actual size of the bolt!



    The process….



    1. REMOVING THE STOCK

    First I loosen the hex bolt in the rear of the stock just a turn or two using the 2.5mm hex key(does not apply to the CP2).

    [​IMG]
    I then turn the gun upside down and remove the hex bolt holding the trigger guard on using the 3mm hex key and lift away the trigger guard along with the bolt.

    [​IMG]

    I then remove the 2.5mm hex bolt already loosened in the rear of the stock. The stock can now be separated from the action.

    [​IMG]



    2. REMOVING THE TRIGGER

    Take your pokey instrument and remove [push out] the pin toward the rear of the trigger blade (the lower centre right of the 3 in the photo).

    [​IMG]

    The pin will drop out easily so make sure it doesn’t disappear down the edge of the sofa or off the workbench etc. I usually just put slight pressure on the trigger blade and the pin almost falls out.

    Next swing the trigger forward and remove the pin holding the trigger in place. Recover the pin and withdraw the trigger from the housing, and finally remove the pin holding the hammer latch/sear plate.

    [​IMG]


    If you are removing a stuck Co2 bulb skip to step 4 Removing Breech and Barrel.



    3. REMOVING THE HAMMER SPRING

    Usually at this point I screw the 2.5mm bolt back into the hammer tube end cap as it helps to lift the cap off in the next step.

    Using the 3mm hex key remove the hammer tube end cap bolt. It is located underneath the rearmost part of the action - see photo [It holds the air tube to the rear of the breech block and passes thru the end cap]. There should be no tension on the spring seeing as you have the trigger removed so make sure you are not inadvertently holding the bolt back. You can withdraw the end cap by the 2.5mm bolt that you forgot to screw into the end of it!!!

    Hex key inserted to show which bolt...
    [​IMG]

    Tip the action rearward and the hammer spring and spring guide will fall out. The hammer will slide down the tube but will not come out yet!

    2.5mm hex bolt screwed back into end cap... Spring and spring guide
    [​IMG]

    *On the CP2 there is an end cap and spring guide combined. It is a plastic affair and a tight fit in the end of the tube, you may need pliers or similar to tug the end cap from the tube. Be careful not to damage it with the pliers and use a twisting back and forth motion (clockwise/anti-clockwise).


    4. REMOVING THE BREECH AND BARREL

    With the hammer spring now removed we can separate the air/hammer tube from the breech block. Draw the bolt backwards to expose the 2.5mm *bolt in/below the pellet tray at the breech.
    [​IMG]

    On the CP2 you will need to slide out the single shot pellet tray.

    Loosen and remove the *2.5mm bolt carefully whilst holding the tube and breech block together.

    Once the bolt is loosened sufficiently the tube and breech block can be gently separated. There is an [upper] O ring located in the breech that may fall out. Be careful not to loose it.

    [​IMG]

    With the breech and air tube separated you can now remove the hammer from the hammer tube by unscrewing the 3mm bolt located in the top of the hammer/air tube.


    If you wish to remove the barrel there are 3 small *bolts holding it in place at the very front of the breech block. Slacken and remove the bolts then using a gentle twisting to and fro motion remove the barrel from the breech block. You may need to replace the O rings.



    * These bolt may be tight if it is the first time you have taken them out. Proceed with caution, make sure your hex key is located well and it fits nice and snug. When removing the breech the end of the pellet probe is ever so slightly in the way so take your time and be careful. Don’t be tempted to use the ball end of the hex key if it is really tight, you may snap it off. Use the hex end.

    *The bolt on the CP2 is 2mm hex



    5. TRANSFER PORT AND VALVE ASSEMBLY

    Now the transfer port and valve assembly can be removed from the air tube.

    Remove the front cap from the end of the air tube (the one that holds the Co2 bulb in place). Use the 3mm hex key to loosen but not remove the bolt from the underside of the air tube directly opposite [below] the transfer port. This is the one located in front of the trigger housing, indicated below.....

    [​IMG]

    Once slackened a turn or two you should be able to remove the brass transfer port from the top of the tube simply by lifting it out of place. If you cannot easily remove it slacken the bolt underneath a little more. The transfer port needs to be removed before the valve assembly can be slid out from the front [muzzle] end of the air tube. [You can now remove your stuck bulb if you have one].

    There should be a [lower] O ring in the top of the valve assembly, recover and inspect.

    [​IMG]

    If you wish you can simply unscrew the valve assembly to gain access to the internals. Be careful not to damage the O ring between the two halves. The pellet probe can also be removed at this point if needed. If the Co2 seal has gone and needs replacing the brass retaining ‘collet’ in the front of the valve assembly can be carefully unscrewed and removed along with the piecer and valve seal.


    Now you have your pistol stripped all parts should all be cleaned and any necessary work carried out before reassembly.

    Whilst I have the air tube out I usually clean the inside with a sort of pull thru whilst it is empty.

    If you have any silicone grease you can apply the lightest smear to the O rings before refitting. When re-fitting the hammer I smear the lightest of coatings of moly grease onto the contact points.

    I do not lube the trigger or sear plate/latch pin. There is no need once they are polished.





    Reassembly……..

    Reassembly is just a case of reversal of the strip-down paying attention to the following points.

    Ensure all bolts are tightened properly before proceeding to the next step.

    I would normally give the metal parts such as the breech block and air tube a nice wipe with oil before fitting together or putting back into the stock.


    Refitting the valve assembly…..

    Fit the [lower] O ring in place in the top of the valve assembly before sliding [valve assembly] into the air tube with the O ring facing up, push it gently into position using one of your hex keys whilst watching for the O ring to line up with the port hole in the top of the air tube.

    Refit the 3mm bolt to the underside of the air tube and into the valve assembly but do not tighten it! This will allow you a little ‘wiggle room’ to seat the transfer port into place later.


    Refitting the hammer….

    Next slide the hammer back into the tube so that it is touching the valve assembly and secure the hammer in place with the 3mm bolt.

    Fit the transfer port in place ensuring it is seated correctly [flat] and move the hammer back as far as it will travel.

    Locate the [upper] O ring either on top of the transfer port or inside the breech block and then carefully align the breech/barrel assembly with the air tube before fitting them together.

    Whilst holding them together push the pellet probe forwards to make sure it operates as it should and is located with the hammer correctly. The probe should lock in it’s usual ‘closed’ position. If it doesn’t you will need to remove the breech block from the air tube again.

    If all of the above is OK draw the pellet probe rearwards to it’s ‘cocked’ position and refit the 2.5mm hex bolt [small bolt in the breech block/pellet tray].

    Once this is completed I finally gently tighten the 3mm bolt securing the valve assembly.


    The last few parts……

    Slide the pellet probe forwards and refit the hammer spring, spring guide and end cap. If the 2.5mm bolt is still fitted into the end cap remove it so that you can refit the stock [very easy to overlook!]

    Refit the sear plate ensuring the trigger spring locates into the small hole in the underside of the air tube/trigger housing.

    Then fit the trigger and trigger stop pin.

    Hold the action upside down and slide the stock over the action and secure with the trigger guard and end cap/stock bolt.


    Da Naaaa! :thumb:


    Once all back together I usually check the cycling of the gun and dry fire without a Co2 bulb fitted to make sure all is ok.

    After you have done it a few times you will wonder why you thought it was so hard! :cool:


    If you need more in depth info on which parts to polish or replace then click here.
    or search the forum.

    Carrying out all of the modifications in the link should give you one lovely, sweet shooting, little pistol.

    Changing the trigger spring and grub screws on mine made a massive difference not only to the feel of the gun but also my accuracy and the polishing really smoothed everything out.

    Replacing the grub screw gives you more room for adjustment and helps you to balance travel and break. I like mine with hardly any travel and a smooth, light break.

    Swapping out the hammer spring for a lighter once will give an increased shot count. I think I have finally settled on one and I am currently averaging 70+ shots at around 3.5fpe (in .177). I really want to get it running just a little lower.


    Finally.....

    My ‘cheap’ CP1 pistol is a joy to shoot. I would thoroughly recommend anyone with one of these pistols to carry out these few simple alterations. It will transform the way your gun feels and shoots and makes so much difference. If you don’t own one then buy one. They are great, fun, ‘cheap’ little pistols for very little money. Great for 6-10m target or further if rested.


    Shameless plug......

    I will normally have trigger spring kits in stock, supplied over length for you to trim to suit. Either post on my sales thread or PM me. Likewise with hammer springs.

    https://www.airgunforum.co.uk/commu...p1-spring-kits-cp2-pp800.259265/#post-2102715

    If you need seals for the CP1/CP2 I can highly recommend @ped for any replacement seals.

    There are a couple of places offering tuning goodies for the CP1. A quick internet search should throw up a few results.


    I hope some of that helps. Enjoy your pistol and thanks for reading.



    Nubble
    :thumb:

    April 2019.

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2019
  2. QuoVadis69

    QuoVadis69 Donator

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    Fantastic guide Nubs now I know exactly how it should be done ! :p

    Thanks for taking the time to post I'm sure it'll be useful to many others. :up::up::up:
     
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  3. Nubble

    Nubble Donator

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    Nice 1. Cheers Qv
    :thumb:
     
  4. Rattymcrattyface

    Rattymcrattyface Nobody's honkin' Manilow

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    Excellent. Enjoyable read. thanks Nubble:thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb:
     
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  5. pbrown

    pbrown Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    Brilliant, thank you very much for putting this together :up::up:
     
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  6. Brimfire

    Brimfire Engaging Member

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    Nicely done Sir!
     
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  7. That hurts

    That hurts Barely Active

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    Excellent Nubbs and qualifies for 'sticky' status :up:
     
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  8. oedbachgen

    oedbachgen Top Poster

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    Excellent write up in stripping and refitting CP 1 pistol (or CP 2), with pics Nubble:thumb:
     
    Nubble likes this.
  9. Simonix

    Simonix Engaging Member

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    Nice write up.

    These are actually very easy to work on. I have carried out a few mods to mine and fettled it to become a fantastic little pistol/rifle (mines the CP2).
     
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  10. Nubble

    Nubble Donator

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    OOOhhh...... excited now! Do wee need a poll. :p

    Thanks to all for the kind words.
    :thumb:
     
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  11. mikeyhall1

    mikeyhall1 2018 Forum Nice Guy - Pepe Le Pew

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    :claping:
    Sticky I think ?
     
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  12. Simonix

    Simonix Engaging Member

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    Also, Nubble’s trigger kits for these are spot on!
     
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  13. pjgtech

    pjgtech Erm, what? who? when?where? why?

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    Wow, many thanx for that, :D very useful info.

    Does this need to be saved as a STICKY mods? :)
     
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  14. Nubble

    Nubble Donator

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    Pretty please mods.
    :cool:
     
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  15. Nubble

    Nubble Donator

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    Thanks for the recommendation Simonix.
    :thumb:
     
  16. ped

    ped Posting Addict

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    nice write up and thanks for the plug for the seal kits
     
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  17. Tadpole

    Tadpole Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    I must be feeling good about something ... well done a lot of work gone into getting this together ... :nicethread:
     
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  18. mikeyhall1

    mikeyhall1 2018 Forum Nice Guy - Pepe Le Pew

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    Congratulations on the “sticky” Nubs - and sincerely a massive thanks for putting this in to words and pictures.
     
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  19. Nubble

    Nubble Donator

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    Cheers Ped.
    :thumb:
     
  20. Nubble

    Nubble Donator

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    Awwww shucks... :oops:



    Thanks guys.

    .... and thanks all of you for your comments and kind words thus far. I must admit it did take a little while as some of the photos I took weren't good enough... :eek: Still enjoyable putting it all together tho.

    Nice to know it's liked and appreciated.


    Cheers all
    :thumb:
     
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