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Boiled linseed oil

Discussion in 'Anything Airgun Related' started by lurchermann, Mar 4, 2014.

  1. lurchermann

    lurchermann Busy Member

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    Has anyone used this on there stocks?iv just buyed a bottle of it from shop but been told it's hardest to use.any info plz.just want to buff my stock up really.atb
     
  2. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    I haven't used it on stocks but I use it on beech,walnut and mahoghany to highlight the grain before applying a finish,usually wax.
     
  3. Tripleteer

    Tripleteer Donator

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    Use it sparingly, it can get very sticky. I would thin it a little with some pure turpentine, or white spirit!! atb Paul.
     
  4. steevie dan

    steevie dan Very Active

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    My Daystate walnut stock has had around 11 or 12 coats of boiled linseed oil (not thinned) on it now in a couple of years, paint it on leave for and hour or two to soak in then wipe it over with soft lint free cloth. Then a couple of days or so later do it again and wipe again then give it a couple of days then put the stock back on the gun and use it, repeat every six months or so or when it isn't going to be used for 4 or 5 days. Be careful with the rags and so on that you use cause linseed and some other oils can spontaneously combust so put them in water and then dispose of outside bin etc. Very important that.( FIRE RISK ). Steve
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2014
  5. highland chief

    highland chief Donator

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    as tripleteer sais, extremely sticky if you use too much,:eek:

    gus.
     
  6. darklord

    darklord Can’t beat a tx200 at 30m

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    yep what he said. but best way to apply and easiest is a little in your palm and one a day for a week then once a week for a month. then once a month till you get what you want. let it dry thoroughly in an airing cupboard is best else it'll get sticky.

    thats it. actually its the easiest to use.

    PS im an ex antique restorer so i do know what I'm talking about.

    for best results use water based stain then cut back with wire wool. seal with button polish v thin coat with a v soft brush, cut back again then oil. once oiled seal with a good wax polish.

    done
     
  7. lurchermann

    lurchermann Busy Member

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    Am I better off using somthing else as just want to give my custom stock a new shine ect it's black American walnut ImageUploadedByTapatalk1393957369.006334.jpg the pic of it.has to be somthing can get from a shop tho as don't have eBay ect.
     
  8. lurchermann

    lurchermann Busy Member

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    Am I better off using somthing else as just want to give my custom stock a new shine ect it's black American walnut
     
  9. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    Shines don't usually come from oil,they come from laquer or varnish but you can finish oil pretty well with a lot of buffing to a pretty nice finish.
     
  10. lurchermann

    lurchermann Busy Member

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    It's just to make it look new again really.its mint now but just want to give it a whipe down with somthing really.
     
  11. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    You can't just wipe down a stock that already has a finish on,it needs to be sanded down back to bare wood.
     
  12. Shropshire Shooter

    Shropshire Shooter Well-Known Member

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    Eh? - if you can post on here then you've got eBay - just click here: http://www.ebay.co.uk
     
  13. Shropshire Shooter

    Shropshire Shooter Well-Known Member

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    Oh yes you can (as long as you're replacing like with like - oil on to oil, varnish on to same type of varnish). Whatever you're doing you need to make sure the surface is scrupulously clean (I wipe down with isopropyl alcohol and scrub out any chequering with an old toothbrush). Obviously this is the time to sort out any dents, rough patches etc. but you don't ALWAYS have to go back to bare wood.

    I'm currently restoring a PH Phoenix Mk I stock - I don't think it's had anything on it since it left the factory. Initially I was going to take it back to bare wood, but looking at it I decided that I'd rather it just looked like a well-used and but better-loved version of what it is, basically leave the minor signs of wear and use but bring out the grain and leave it with a nice patina.

    I started off with the thorough cleaning, then broke the original oil finish with 1200 grit wet & dry. Another good wipe down with alcohol to be on the safe side and then hand-rubbed the thinnest possible coat of oil (I'm using "Ultra Old London Gunstock Oil" - I'd got half a bottle left over from a Chamber's kit I bought for another job about 6 years ago).

    It's had about 8 coats so far - each one rubbed in as thinly as possible, then buffed back with a soft cloth before it's had a chance to dry. I leave it at least a couple of days between coats and it's starting to look great. I'll probably give it a few more coats, then if it starts to look a bit tired I know I can just freshen it up in a year or two if it needs it.
     
  14. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    I meant rubbing oil into lacquer isn't going to accomplish anything,some of the daystates have very high gloss varnished stocks on and I can't tell what finish is on it from the picture.
     
  15. Shropshire Shooter

    Shropshire Shooter Well-Known Member

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    I think we're both saying the same thing mate :up:. The one thing I'd say to anyone who is thinking of applying an oil finish is try it - unlike varnish it improves with handling, whereas with varnish it's downhill all the way until it looks so tatty you've got to strip it right back to a smooth surface.
     
  16. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    I've just taken all the varnish off a beech SMK stock and am planning to apply danish oil tommorow :up:
     
  17. Steve K

    Steve K Posting Addict

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    If you apply boiled linseed oil to a bare wood stock, and rub it in hard with the palm of your hand, you will if you build up enough heat by rubbing produce a sheen quite quickly, sometimes even with the first coat depending on the wood.
    Smooth walnut will give great results.

    If the stock has varnish or laquer on, the oil will not penetrate, so is pointless, btw, sanding a stock isn't a great idea as it is removing wood and profile from the stock. Wire wool or scourer is a better option
     
  18. mattyts

    mattyts Donator

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    I won't use wire wool on stocks heavily since seeing a stock turn orange due to the fibers of the wire wool being embedded into the open grain and rusting once a finish was applied.
     
  19. Shropshire Shooter

    Shropshire Shooter Well-Known Member

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    A tip I've found works is to use a damp (just water) cloth to buff between coats. It seems to give a smoother finish without leaving any dust or lint behind.
     
  20. Geordie

    Geordie Donator

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    Lads!
    It's one of my stocks that's finished in CCL. I advised the OP to get himself some liquid beeswax polish or summat similar as he just wants to bring back a bit of sheen. He can't seem to get any liquid beeswax so he ended up with boiled linseed. As he's not done any stock re finishing I advised that linseed might not be best for him;)

    I've agreed to send him a wee bit of CCL but I still think he'd be better with a liquid polish that he can apply with a cloth without removing action from stock.

    Hope that straightens things out;)

    Keep your comments coming though guys, very interesting:)
     

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