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Question anyone have a hw99s strip down guide??

Discussion in 'Anything Airgun Related' started by gaj1612, May 15, 2015.

  1. gaj1612

    gaj1612 Engaging Member

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    got my self a hw99 and have been reading up on the drop in kits, i was thinking of putting in a WD kit but have never stripped an air gun before.

    has anyone got a step by step strip down guide or anything similar i could go by?

    thanks
     
  2. bhodge

    bhodge Posting Addict

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    Hi mate, I've never stripped a '99 so I'm not the best person to give you the answer. What I would suggest is checking out YouTube, I'm pretty sure you'll find something helpful there.
    Weihrauch's in general are very straightforward to work on, so I'm confident you'll have no problems.
    Atb, bhodge.
     
  3. Taz72

    Taz72 Engaging Member

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    A couple of the mags have done stripdowns but they're on back issues. There is a scan of one on the net somewhere if googled but its only the first half (taking it apart).
    However the good news is it's one of the easiest, very similar to a 95, and there are definitely a couple of decent vids on youtube for that.
    The only key practical differences are the 99 cocking linkage is articulated whereas the 95 isn't, and the stock screws are 2 at the side vs one in the middle. Otherwise its virtually bit for bit the same.

    Points to note are;
    A sash clamp/spring compressor will make the job easier: its not that you couldn't cope with the spring, its just a heck of a lot less fiddly, particularly with taking out and replacing the 4 little b***er lugs that locate the rear block. You'll also need something round and roughly the same size as the inner end block to push against it. I had an old plastic plumbing joint to hand but there are plenty of other bits n bobs you could use.

    Don't just grab the first screwdrivers you have to hand. Find some that fit or you'll chew the screws up. This is particularly important for the breech bolt which needs a really wide, thick one. When I next have time I'll probably grind down an old/cheap chisel to size for mine.

    You will need something to poke out the little lugs. A cutoff small allen key seems to be the easiest tool for this.

    Pin punches for the trigger assembly removal (or a carefully chosen cutoff nail/allen key etc, but careful to not damage them, and to tap them from the correct side otherwise you'll be forcing them in rather than out.

    You'll need something to clean the old gunk out - brake cleaner, meths, IPA etc
    Also a good supply of paper tissues and j-cloths or their pound-shop equivalent.
    A piece of something long, round and non-scratchy for cleaning/ lubing the cylinder will also come in handy - a section of wooden brush stale with a small vertical slot to help hold the cloth is ideal. 2 is even better: that way you avoid mixing your "dirty" stripdown stuff with your "clean" relube stuff.
    Wet n dry 320 & 600 grit.
    Autosol polish

    Don't forget to have some decent lubrication for putting it back together.

    And a healthy supply of time and meticulous patience for your first attempt, which will take at least 3x as long as you expect and twice as long as your subsequent ones :)
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2015
  4. gaj1612

    gaj1612 Engaging Member

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    Lovely stuff, thanks for that. I have watched a video of the 95 being stripped and seems pretty straightforward. Could you suggest a video where things are being done properly? It's the polishing side of things I'm not too sure about

    Thanks for the info
     
  5. Taz72

    Taz72 Engaging Member

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    Can't recall seeing a video of the piston polishing bit but its fairly straightforward. I used my rechargeable drill and some advice I think was from praps tinbum or T20 on here, can't rightly remember.

    Basically, clean any crud and existing grease off the piston (inside and out) and the seal with your cleaning stuff. You might find some bits of swarf here & there from original assembly (including the seal I'm disappointed to say- I did but luckily only on the face, they hadn't damaged the edge)
    Clean up any burrs or nasty edges on the piston's cocking slot. Use something flat for your wet n dry to go around (an old kitchen knife might do at a push) so you're not rounding edges that should be square. (I know very fine files may be better but am assuming just simple basic tools)
    Put something inside the piston to prevent any unnecessary ingress of particles. Protect the latch rod and put it in the drill jaws. Tighten enough to hold but not to damage or scratch it.
    Then you're ready for the fun bit. Spin the piston in the drill. Doesn't need to be too fast. Safer not to be actually.
    Polish the surface with increasingly finer grades, then clean off any errant particles.

    Next with autosol on a j-cloth or clean rag. At all times take care that if (or rather when) it snags, it pulls out of your hands and you release the power. Sounds basic and primitive because it is, but it works, and you will end up with a nice smooth shiny piston, all good & ready for burnishing/buffing with some decent high moly content powder or paste .
     
  6. davymole

    davymole Donator

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    pretty straight forward to strip, watch when you knock out the two trigger pins that you don,t lose the the safety and its spring and the captive nut on the trigger To remove the four blocks grind down a allen key and use this don't use a screwdriver ,when removing the back block I place the rifle end down on a round kids rubber saves marking the ends some people use a coin place it onto the rubber and push down and twist.I do all this on a white sheet makes it easier to find parts that drop/spring out, good luck these are a rewarding rifle to work on the same as the 98/95 all the same method.
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2015
  7. sithe79

    sithe79 Donator

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    Search for username 2lb trigger pull on you tube. He has just uploaded a 99/50 strip down video. His videos are very good, he really knows his weihrauch rifles!
    Hth
    Si
     
  8. HWnut

    HWnut Busy Member

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  9. katluke

    katluke Donator

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    No need to remove the barrel to remove cocking arm from cylinder. Just tap drift pin at the front of the cocking arm ( where it connects to barrel block ) to free the cocking arm from barrel then slide it out.

    sp
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2015
  10. gaj1612

    gaj1612 Engaging Member

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    thanks for all the info, im going to get my scope on tomorrow and have a plink. do a bit more reading up and once ive put some pellets through it, i shall have a go :)
     
  11. That hurts

    That hurts Barely Active

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  12. gaj1612

    gaj1612 Engaging Member

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    thanks for the help everyone, i have watched a few vids and feel pretty confident, i plan on putting a fair few pellets through it first before i strip it down.
     
  13. Samiad

    Samiad Donator

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    If it makes you feel any better about doing it, I'm somewhat of a spoon fed muppet when it comes to taking things apart and putting them back together (mainly the back together bit is my issue!) but I found it so easy that even I can strip, clean and lightly lube mine up in a matter of minutes and it works once it's back together :)
     
  14. Dag

    Dag Very Active

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    I watched Tinbum do mine and noticed the preload was not so great that it required a spring compressor or sash cramp. He pushed the end down onto a delrin washer and that seemd more than adequate to remove the pressure on the pins.
    Perhaps he might like to comment if I have said anything wrong here. Safety is paramount but with care the spring and piston removal isn't a problem as Samiad says.
    hth
    Dag
     
  15. Taz72

    Taz72 Engaging Member

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    It isn't the preload that's the problem, it's the potential b*ggering about with the little lugs while trying to hold a spring in a precise position under slight tension if one of them decides it's quite comfy and would actually really rather stay where it is thanks; Two of mine came out easily, one was a bit more awkward, and the fourth was a little sod which took a few minutes of fiddling and cursing.

    Don't get me wrong, it's not THAT difficult & I'm not trying to say that you absolutely must must must have a spring compressor to do it, but in the same way that you could get a bottletop off with the edge of a wall and a sharp tap, wouldn't you rather make life easier and use a bottle opener (at least for your first try)?

    I don't doubt Tinbum wouldn't have had the slightest problem with it, in the same way that all good engineers/mechanics/gunsmiths have a knack for such things.
    On the other hand, I've watched Don Felder play the guitar solo from Hotel California and that looked dead easy as well... :D
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2015
  16. Ouch!

    Ouch! Donator

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    I used a pound coin to release the preload on my 95k it's no great problem. A very easy stripdown just watch 'the tube of you' and follow the instructions.

    Simples!
     

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