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Air Arms EV2 Mk4 "Blonde"

Discussion in 'Gun Gallery' started by cloverleaf, Sep 5, 2017.

  1. cloverleaf

    cloverleaf Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    Some musings on a recent acquisition that unexpectedly came my way last week. I probably paid over the odds for it, but have been ruminating on looking for one for LSR for a while so when this one cropped up it was hard to say no, and inevitably little warning signs during testing were downplayed in my head as I was really quite taken by it :eek:


    Background, for those who aren't easily bored

    The EV2 is Air Arms' thirdish stab at a top-end FT rifle; following on from the NJR100 in around 1991 and then the Pro-Target in about 1996. While the NJR and PT were completely different rifles, the EV2 borrows heavily from the Pro-Target, just as much of this platform lives on today in the current FTP900.

    While there are many, many differences, the Mk1 EV2 was essentially a tarted-up Pro-Target with a different finish, a few more features (palm shelf, "windicator", spirit level), the PT's sliding breech arrangement replaced with a sidelever cocking / loading setup and various other little differences. The sidelever made things slicker, but also killed the PT's ambidextrous action and shut lefties out as the sidelever was only ever offered on the RHS :down:

    While there were very few differences between the Mk2,3 & 4 EV2s (which will be covered later) the Mk1 EV2 is significantly different both to all of its successors as well as its PT predecessor, and as such was a bit of an awkward oddity / halfway house between the outgoing Pro-Target and the later Mk2 EV2.

    Headline differences are numerous: the Mk1 EV2 had a silver action block with substantially different geometry to the later guns, a 15mm diameter modified CZ200 barrel (the same diameter as the Pro-Target's tube), a unique lightweight striker, a CZ200 striker spring, blued cylinder and barrel and a silver painted laminate stock with "EV2" decals on the forend. The woodwork was apparently painted to hide the fact that these first EV2s used up the remaining stock of (subsequently butchered :() "nutmeg" laminate Pro-Target stocks.

    By contrast the EV2 Mk2 set the tone for later models with a more purposeful, angular breech block (available in red, blue or black and matched in colour by the muzzle brake and fill valve cover), a 14mm diameter barrel the same geometrically as that used on the S400 MPR (and still used on the HFT500 and FTP900) and a heavier striker (very similar to that in the Pro-Target) with bespoke spring. Both barrel and cylinder were finished in Nickel and stocks were now a very nice grey/black laminate.

    The only geometric differences between the Mk2 and subsequent models are in the stock's adjustable parts - the Mk2 had the cheekpiece, butt pad and palm shelf all mounted on twin rails; allowing translational adjustment only in one plane. The Mk3 got a longer palm shelf, while the cheekpiece and butt pad were now mounted on single pillars with ball joints - allowing not only translation in one plane but all manner of rotational movement as well.

    Finally the Mk4 added this ball joint setup to the palm shelf; requiring changes not only to the stock but the action block as well. I've seen pics on the net of (presumably) early Mk4s that appear to have had the single palm-shelf hole cut into the block post-finishing, meaning bare metal on the walls of the hole.. a bloody poor show on any rifle IMO, let alone one of this price. Thankfully later guns were properly finished and also still retain the two outer holes for the earlier two-pillar setup, so are retro-compatable with earlier parts.


    To the best of my knowledge the last iteration of the EV2 Mk4 was the "blonde", "black and blonde", "blacks on blondes" or "Ebony and Ivory Stevie Wonder special commemorative edition" depending on who you speak to and how childish your sense of "humour"..

    This model was billed as a special edition and ran alongside the standard EV2.. I'm not sure if there was a price difference. The "blonde" is mechanically and geometrically identical to the standard rifle, except that the stock is made from Poplar (the same as the S400/500 "Superlite" stocks as well as countless boxes of matches).

    Aside from its lacquer finish the main stock section is left in the white while the cheekpiece and palm rest were stained black. The action was available in the black colour scheme only (thank fap as it'd have looked like a proper dog's dinner otherwise!).

    Just as with the Superlite rifles the use of a poplar stock pares a lot of mass from the gun (I've heard a figure of 14oz mentioned, which is around 400g or nearly 10% of the rifle's original mass - a significant achievement). The down-side is that the wood is very prone to damage as it's so soft - my example is no exception as it's covered in rub marks and a fairly nasty ding that's broken the surface of the wood.

    Durability aside I really quite like the striking aesthetic of the wood while the lack of mass is noticeable - not just as an absolute but also in the way it shifts the centre of mass forward - which IMO is a good thing.


    My Example

    This particular rifle has a 115xxx serial, which going by S400 serials means it was made in mid 2012 or thereabouts. I'm not sure if I bought it off its original owner, however barring some superficial damage to the stock and a few stains on the Nickel bits it's cosmetically good. It certainly looks pretty unmolested - unfortunately the AT is still all present (which is going to be a sod to remove) but at least this means the gun hasn't been subjected to heavy-handed attempts to remove it.

    What's not so good is that it needs a bit of TLC - namely because the reg's goosed, the trigger's sh*te, it's under-powered and the barrel's lashed to the cylinder. These will be covered below - I'm going to intersperse the rest of the text with not-necessarily relevant pics as I figure the existing wall of text has probably put enough people off already :p


    Here it is as received (short of some alterations to the adjustable bits). It's fitted with a Hawke Sidewinder 6.5-20x42 scope. The aesthetic of the rifle is certainly bold and contrasty, without being garish IMO as it keeps everything pretty much monochrome. I much, much prefer this colour scheme to the "early learning centre" primary colours used on other models, but of course it's all a matter of taste.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The sidelever loading probe setup is nice and slick, although I suspect could be improved further with some selective polishing and a re-lube. The probe has a sprung shroud that butts up against the rear of the breech block during closing and serves to keep some tension on the loading mech. The little steampunk post and wheel on the probe's underside actuates a cocking lever that sets the striker - giving the probe a mechanical advantage over the relatively short-stroked striker and making the cocking stroke longer and lighter. This feature is carried over directly from the Pro-Target and retained on the FTP900; indeed the striker and trigger assy are practically identical and share many of the same parts.

    The rifle has a transfer port adjustor on its front LH face that's covered by the usual AA shear bolt - I think getting this out without f*cking anything up is going to require the help of a grown-up.

    It seems that (to an extent) AA really went all out to cater for the FT brigade with this gun; including provision for a little elevation cheat-sheet on the side of the block; although having to unscrew the cover to replace the sheet must wear thin if forever-fiddling with settings, as seems to be par for the course in FT.

    The scope suits the rifle nicely and I quite like it, although it adds a lot of weight and I suspect renders this setup in excess of the 4.5kg max weight limit for most LSR comps, so I suspect it'll have to go. Also I imagine that a lighter scope would improve balance too.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    As previously mentioned the trigger on these rifles is pretty much shared in its entirity with the preceding Pro-Target and subsequent FTP900. In its favour its usually an excellent unit that retains smoothness, crispness, reliability and feel down to stupidly low pull weights, while also incorporating a raft of adjustment. What's not so good is that the sears are prone to wear, while also apparently prone to QC issues on later examples.

    For now the trigger has two issues (which will be explored at a later date) - the first is that it lacks sufficient adjustment to give a crisp 2nd stage release (there's always a bit of creep) while operation is generally rough. I think this should be easily fixed with a new sear or two, but we'll see in time.

    [​IMG]

    It appears that the later EV2s had a slight cosmetic facelift as the "EV2" script on the breech block became larger with graduated text, as opposed to the smaller, solid font used on earlier guns. In front of this section of the block we can see the barrel support and beneath it the regulator (rearmost), gauge and spirit level mount and a little bit of the air cylinder.

    The reg in my example suffers from the very-well documented creep issue - meaning that once fired the output pressure of the reg slowly creeps up as pressure leaks past the reg's seat.. this manifests itself as low muzzle energy on the first shot after the rifle has been idle for a while. The first shot from this gun was 9.8ftlb, while the second and subsequent ones were consistently 10.8. Energy is obviously a little lower than ideal, while the problem repeats itself so it's clearly going to need some remedial work.

    The reg and cylinder are going to have to come off to sort the creep; which is a daunting task as AA have a fearsome reputation for massively over-tightening these components; for fundamentally flawed and foolhardy reasons that will be touched upon later. It looks like I'm going to have to get some tools made for getting these bits apart - the cost of which can hopefully be recuperated through similar work on other peoples' guns in future.. which might of course be wishful thinking as I've only ever worked on one other example of this rifle!

    [​IMG]

    As previously mentioned AA attempted to accommodate a lot of otherwise aftermarket add-ons as standard features on this rifle. Here we see the folding spirit level deployed ready for action. Probably more use than the crib sheet on the side of the action, providing it's accurate of course!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The cylinder is free-floating within the stock; the only points of contact between the action and woodwork being at the block; which is a nice touch as it should rule out the (tbh minimal) potential effects on zero of either the cylinder or stock warping due to internal pressure or temperature and humidity changes respectively. Of course this is all totally undermined by the utterly idiotic decision to lash the bloody barrel to the cylinder at the muzzle - which will be ranted about in detail later!

    [​IMG]

    The offending muzzle / stripper assembly, the details and flaws of which will be covered in the next post. This setup incorporates a fold-out "windicator" hanger; its purpose being to allow light fluffy things like unicorn feathers to be hung from its end to be used in an attempt to gauge wind.

    [​IMG]

    ..continued in next post as I've hit the image limit..
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2018
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  2. rabbitwrecker

    rabbitwrecker The Tree Hunter...

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    That's almost subtle - almost...:D
     
  3. cloverleaf

    cloverleaf Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    ...

    As previously mentioned the stock offers masses of adjustment. The buttpad allows adjustment for length of pull and height, while the "pad" itself can be rotated in three degrees of freedom about its ball joint and the angle of the extensions top and bottom can be changed significantly. The ball joints used on the cheekpiece and palm shelf afford these parts similar freedom of movement; all of which add up to a package that feels immensely (almost intimidatingly) accommodating.

    Along with the general lines of the stock the pistol grip is very similar to that of the Pro-Target, but has a welcome thumb channel for those who wish to shoot thumb-up. Overall the ergonomics of the stock are excellent; the only thing I'm not hugely fond of being the ally buttpad as I generally prefer more grippy rubber, but it's a minor complaint as the angle extensions provide enough location in the shoulder.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Again the down-side of the poplar stock is that it's extremely prone to damage - as can be seen both on the edges of the palm rest in the image above, as well as the worst bit of damage on the LHS shown below. Sadly it really doesn't take a lot of force to cause such marks which IMO makes the material borderline unfit for purpose..

    [​IMG]

    The problems this rifle present are a mixture of design and manufacturing issues; some more forgivable and easy to address than others, and all well-known to many EV2 owners. While none are really insurmountable (sanity and funds permitting) some are pretty basic and IME the most shameful cock-up is the barrel arrangement.

    For those who don't know any pressure vessel (including the air cylinder on a rifle) will change dimensionally as its internal pressure varies during use. Cylinders will expand and contract radially and linearly. In addition and of more concern, if their wall thickness isn't absolutely consistant they can bend / warp away from their centreline. This is why it's a bloody awful idea to attach the barrel to the cylinder - as the cylinder can cause the barrel to deflect as it warps with pressure change; causing zero shift.

    By far the easiest way to prevent this issue is to ensure that the barrel is floating - i.e. it doesn't touch anything other than the action block at the breech end. This is a nice, simple, straightforward and foolproof approach - that indeed AA had already used previously on the Pro-Target Mk3. Yes, on some guns there can be concerns over damage if it's knocked during use; however the barrel on this rifle is stiff enough for that not to be an issue and the block is fairly study. Also since the barrel only projects a couple of inches past the front of the cylinder assy it's less likely to get knocked in any case.

    Sadly for whatever utterly flawed and misguided reasoning AA used during the design of this rifle the air stripper is anchored to the "windicator", which in turn is rigidly fixed to the fill valve assembly of the gun. AA clearly gave the setup some thought as the air stripper contains plain bearings, presumably in an effort to allow the stripper to move longitudinally with respect to the stripper as the cylinder's length changes. However, the stripper still constrains the barrel radially and is quite frankly a bit of an overly-complicated, wholly un-necessary lash-up.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The stripper has a ball-ended boss screwed into its underside which is clamped into the windicator via a grub screw in its side. Presumably the boss is intended to be screwed in or out to correctly align the stripper with the barrel in the vertical axis - a probably soul-destroyingly tedious and again completely un-necessary task if the barrel was free-floated. My setup shows signs of "interference" - especially on top of the windicator which appears to have seen a file in the past. I'm not sure if this happened at the factory during manufacture or after the gun was purchased.. needless to say it's given someone some grief anyway.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    What makes this whole situation even more of a laughable pain in the arse is that since Air Arms evidently can't grasp the concept of the cylinder deflecting with pressure change as the cause of zero shift problems, they torqued the cylinders and regs up massively in the mistaken belief that this would somehow cure the zero shift. Of course this is great fun when the gun inevitably needs to be stripped for the first time - another massively problematic result of the quite frankly sh*te and pointless muzzle assembly design.

    There is one potential little ray of hope; in that the stripper can be inverted and possibly anchored to the barrel using a modified grub screw through the tapped hole for the retaining boss into the timing hole in the top of the barrel.

    Other than the slight aesthetic drawbacks this would bring (this part of the brake has has a shallow slot running across it to locate against the windicator, and mine has a few marks in this area) I'm not sure how good the alignment would be as the internal bearings that sit between the stripper and the barrel only sit rearward of the hole in the stripper and there's a touch of slop in them. I think the stripper is bored to the same diameter throughout (I may be wrong) so it might be possible to reposition some of the bearings or add more / a sleeve; but it'd still be a bit of a bodge IMO.

    [​IMG]

    Ideally I'd like to keep the original stripper if possible as I like the aesthetic and I'm too tight to buy a replacement.. although it's not the best design in the world as the cone sits quite a long way from the muzzle, so it's effectiveness is debatable. Sadly another feature of this rifle that ticks a "yes it's there" box, but doesn't necessarily perform its intended function particularly well.


    So there we go.. in summary we have a reasonable example of a basically sound, well-designed, well-engineered and largely well-respected rifle that's sadly blighted by some poor design choices and common problems.

    I'm hoping to address all of these issues in time - I've got to find a way of removing the reg and cylinder so that the reg creeep can be sorted (and the unit possibly modified), while the AT will have to come out as I'll need to set the gun up, plus it's nasty hateful sh*te that I don't want anywhere near any rifle I own. These are really the first priority, although will take time to get sorted due to the tools required to do the job properly.

    The trigger is going to need a new sear and a good setup (one of the easier tasks) and I need to ditch the horrible barrel restraint system at the muzzle. Thoughts at the moment are an inverted stripper as described above and an HFT500 blanking piece in place of the windicator assembly. If that fails there are other, less favourable options - including an HFT500 stripper, a Rowan stripper or other after market alternative, or a full-on custom effort.

    Congratulations if you made it this far - I'll update the thread in the event of any progress although don't hold your breath ;)
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2018
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  4. cloverleaf

    cloverleaf Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    ..finally what's quite ridiculous is the amount of time I've put into writing this sodding thread - the pics took me bloody ages as shooting such a light subject on a white background required a lot of time in photoshop, while my PC's crashed and I've had an utter nightmare getting the images posted due to the attachments timing out, hitting quantity limits or generally otherwise screwing me over.

    I think just getting this post written has taken me the best part of three hours and in all I've spent far more time talking about the gun than actually working on it - it'd better be sodding accurate when I actually get it finished!
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2017
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  5. Paddler

    Paddler Donator

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    Great write up about a rifle from an iconic series of rifles. You really ought to be on the Air Arms R&D team...

    For the record.. I'll be putting some unicorn feathers up on eBay soon...
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2017
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  6. PumpnGun

    PumpnGun Donator

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    Great write up Mike, thanks for taking the time ;)

    Ray
     
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  7. cloverleaf

    cloverleaf Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    Thanks :)

    I'm flattered but not sure that the good people of Air Arms would agree with you - or that they have an R&D department tbh!

    I'll keep an eye out for your unicorn feathers - I could do with some to go on my fully-working, legal-limit Daystate and non-self-destructing HW99 :p


    Thanks - I enjoy writing them but they seem to be taking up increasing amounts of time that should probably be spent attending to more pressing matters..

    Glad it's appreciated :)
     
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  8. Nobby

    Nobby Posting Addict

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    One of the other differences between the mark 1 and the rest, is the breech design. The mark 1 has the breech end of the barrel turned down, and a brass sleeve fitted. The brass sleeve has the breech O ring groove in it, and also has the transfer port admitting air into the barrel and behind the pellet. Rather like the S400 series.

    The mark 2s and later have no sleeve, all the machining is done in the parent metal of the barrel.

    AA told me the reason was the cost of rejects. If AA machined the mark 1 barrels and made a mistake it would be an expensive dead barrel. Instead they designed the brass sleeve, if that had a machining error it was only a few pence for the material plus the time lost. When it came to the mark 2s, AA negotiated that the machining would be done by the supplier, who then carried the risk of reject cost.
     
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  9. rabbitwrecker

    rabbitwrecker The Tree Hunter...

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    Pfffttt-gun notwithstanding - interesting thread and excellent photos...:up:
     
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  10. RagnarHairybreeks

    RagnarHairybreeks Keyboard Hero

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    Thankyou very much. Highly informative.
     
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  11. Bozz

    Bozz Busy Member

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    Hi nice read i think it took me longer to read than you to write as i had to keep going over bits. By the way it doesn't make you a "POST WHORE" but a "POST NYMPHOMANIAC" unless you are getting paid for it. Graham
     
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  12. MikeBBikes

    MikeBBikes Donator

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    Quite like the look of that!
     
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  13. thumbhole

    thumbhole Keyboard Hero

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    Nice write up Mike. The blonde and black stocks were quite rare not that many about and i have only ever seen and held one. I do have a black and blonde MPR stock and I love that. Its the better looking EV2 you have hold on to it I'm sure you will sort the issues.:up:
     
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  14. stew87

    stew87 Certified

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    Excellent review enjoyed reading it. Very informative I wish you the best of luck with the rifle :up:
     
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  15. jakey226

    jakey226 Busy Member

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    fantastic thread with brilliant photos as always Mike, great read!
     
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  16. cloverleaf

    cloverleaf Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    Thanks for the encouragement everyone :)

    I got the opportunity to spend a little time on the rifle yesterday; allowing me to take a bit more of a look at what I've bought and sort a few small issues.

    First off the stock came off for a general inspection - thankfully no show-stoppers found lurking beneath the woodwork, however a few little disappointments..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Next the side plate came off to reveal the trigger and striker assembly:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Some light scoring was noticed on the action block behind the cocking arm that's actuated by the bolt being withdrawn and acts on the striker during cocking.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    It appears that this was the result of the front face of the arm deforming where it meets the steel peg against which it rests after completing its forward stroke; displacing material outwards and proud of the surface that contacts the side of the action block. This can be seen in the second image below (upper face of bottom LHS part as oriented in the image). Note also the damage on the outside of the large radius from contacting the striker.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Any displaced material and sharp edges were dressed down with a jeweller's file and stoned flat, before being touched up with cold bluing solution as best as possible. The cocking arm appears to be laser cut and has pretty poorly-finished edges; I'm hoping that since the face has now deformed and has more surface area in contact with the pin that it won't cause any more issues in future.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The cocking arm appears to be a different design on the FTP900 so if it has obvious benefits and is retro-fittable, I might look into replacing the existing one.

    Ctd. in next post..
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2018
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  17. cloverleaf

    cloverleaf Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    .. while inside I took a look at the trigger assy as it's nowhere near as pleasant as it should be.

    It appears that the problem lies with the 2nd sear assy. Firstly the notchy pull is most likely down to a poor finish on the contact surface with the 1st sear, while it appears to have been ground flat rather than at a radius of shared centre with the unit's pivot.

    I'll maybe take a look at attempting to correct this with a stone, although how successful this is likely to be is a matter of debate thanks to my own limitations as well as the fact that the top sear runs fairly minimal engagement with the striker and taking too much off the middle sear will prevent the gun from cocking.

    Having recently replaced the same part on a Pro-Target it appears that they're like this from the factory and I've heard rumours of poor QC, so I'm not convinced that simply replacing this part will cure the issue - although it wouldn't hurt to have a spare!

    The other issue with the trigger is that I run out of adjustment before I can get the 2nd stage release as crisp as I'd like. This is apparently due to some d*ckhead attacking the plastic "sear block" with a hacksaw to open up the slot within which the steel 2nd sear sits.

    This allows the sear to deflect downwards to a greater extent, meaning that the sear block needs to be rotated to a greater degree by the trigger to cause the trigger to release. Unfortunately there's insufficient adjustment on the 2nd stage grub screw to achieve this, so a new block is evidently on the cards.

    The middle sear assembly (sear and block) can be seen below:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Note that the 1st stage contact point is a non-adjustable steel ball pressed into the housing while the 2nd stage gets adjustment courtesy of a grub screw. I notice that the FTP900 part contains two grub screws (and hence affords more adjustment) so I'll fit one of these assuming it's a straight swap.

    Having seen some butchered blocks in the name of adding the single-pillar palm rest I checked the underside of the action block; thankfully the hole for the pillar is properly finished (the big one in the middle). The two holes for the earlier two-pillar setup can be seen on either side:

    [​IMG]


    Next up was a quick look at the anti-tamper sh*te to see what I was up against in terms of removal. Perhaps the least offensive bit is the striker spring preload adjustor; which has a sheared boss in its centre in place of a straightforward means of adjustment that would be present in a product sold into any other rational developed nation:

    [​IMG]

    Beneath this "adjuster" is nylon ball held into contact with its threads by a grub screw, to prevent easy removal / unwanted movement during use. This is delightfully covered by a steel plug in the bottom of the action; so this is going to have to come out too:

    [​IMG]

    Finally we have the worst of the lot - the transfer port shear bolt. Getting this out without damaging the surrounding block looks like it's going to be a pig of a job.. as such I'm considering giving it to my tame machinist to do in his mill...

    [​IMG]

    While I was at it I pulled the barrel out and shone a torch into the port to see how much restriction was present by the adjustment grub screw. The answer being "far too much". As can be seen below the screw is impinging quite a lot into the hole, plus appears to be a bit p****d with respect to it (although I suspect this looks a bit worse than it is thanks to the shadow cast by the edge of the port as I was illuminating it with a torch at the breech).

    [​IMG]

    For a given muzzle energy, ideal operating pressure is determined by transfer port side. In a regged gun a lower ideal operating pressure is usually desirable as it gives a greater range between maximum fill pressure and reg pressure; offering more shots per charge. Air Arms have never gone larger than 3mm in the ports on their regged guns, which means they like a fairly high reg pressure (typically around 100bar in this platform). Going to maybe 3.4mm would probably see ideal reg operating pressure drop to 90bar, giving more shots per charge. Larger ports are also less sensitive to pellet mass, which is another significant bonus.

    In this particular rifle it looks like the adjustor screw is restricting maybe 40-50% of the flow area through the port. This means that either the reg pressure is set far too low to operate properly with a port of this size (requiring excessive striker energy to give decent muzzle energy and wasting air) or if the reg pressure is set correctly (for a port of this flow area I'd think that'd be maybe 130-140bar) the gun will have a very small operating pressure range between fill and coming off reg. It will also render the gun open to producing insufficient muzzle energy, which it is at around 10.8ftlb (when the reg's not creeping) - around 0.5ftlb lower than it should be.

    So, clearly 3mm ports are a bit on the small side anyway, without being further throttled by the adjustor. There is a small case for for having the adjustor to allow for fine tweaking / a quick and dirty method to get you out of the sh*te, however this is rendered irrelevant anyway thanks to the AT.. and when a regged gun is being setup IMO it should be done with as large a port as possible and the energy set on the striker.

    I'm not sure how the port came to be in this state - sometimes the screws can move under vibration / other load, or maybe it was just abysmally setup from the factory.. either way I'm really itching to get stuck in and sort it out, making the (currently insurmountable) obstacles in my way even more frustrating.


    Finally, in the interest of removing one of said obstacles I measured the reg up for a removal tool. It has three 3.2mm diameter holes around its 31.6mm diameter, which according to the drill bits I stuck into them to take this picture seem equally-spaced around its circumference at 120 degrees.

    [​IMG]

    Cue the firing up of solidworks and countless nights of indecision before I finally push myself to get whatever contraption I've come up with made!
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2018
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  18. cloverleaf

    cloverleaf Super Moderator Staff Member Mod/Admin

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    Some more inconsequential ranting..

    The rifle feels a lot more slick now that the cocking linkage / lever has been tidied, although it's still not quite right. In addition I've noticed that it's fouling the sideplate slightly (causing to deflect outwards a little) during cocking; so that'll need attention at some point.

    Having removed the portly Sidewinder the gun balances so much more nicely and feels very light for what it is. The scales suggest the bare gun weighs around 4.05kg and unfortunately IIRC the LSR comp rules state a max weight of 4.5kg, so I'll need a really lightweight scope and mounts to get it within the regs. Even the tiny Hawke Airmax 2-7x32 weighs nearly 500g, while the fat b*stard Sidewinder that came off clocked 910g with the crappy Hawke mounts attached.. so that's definitely not going back on.

    I might be able to lighten the rifle somewhat but tbh I'm not going to butcher it just to shoot in a comp I'll probably get bored of anyway. That said, LSR is really my only reason to keep it as this is what I've been using as a motivator to shoot RH.

    Will keep the thread updated as and when but since the rifle needs tools and bits to progress from the sorry state it's currently in, I don't expect rapid progress!
     
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  19. scrane

    scrane Engaging Member

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    I am always amazed at the quality of the EV2 product. It just seems to be the most gun per dollar of any rifle. Now, the regulator...

    You should be able to find a lightweight fixed power scope that would work. What magnification would you want?
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2017
    cloverleaf likes this.
  20. rangelandrob

    rangelandrob Engaging Member

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    while the fat b*stard Sidewinder that came off clocked 910g with the crappy Hawke mounts attached.. so that's definitely not going back on.

    If you are selling the sidewinder I would be interested
    :D
     
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