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A Meteoric Restoration.....

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Halinfax, Feb 18, 2021.

  1. Halinfax

    Halinfax Full time tinkerer and general all round nice guy

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    Gentlemen….

    Once more to the breech as we endure the ravishes of the negative temperatures and bitingly cold Easterlies… and we (being the fools that we are….) spend time in the Shed..

    Once more I was requested by a mate of mine (who has NOWT to do with any forum) if I could “sort out his Meteor” as he managed to pick it up dirt cheap……

    Following the recent successes with the HW30 that I refurbished for him… the Meteor was gonna be a “bread and butter” project as I know them so intimately…

    ”As before ‘Al wi t'little gun,, if tha can do t’rifle…, ahl do t’stock missen..” were the lilting works from this broad Yorkshireman….

    As with virtually EVERY Meteor that I have even encountered…. it was rusted and corroded inside and out… Grade 3 galling on the cylinder tube, the hole where the cocking shoe fits had one side pushed in,
    20210212_122022.jpg

    There were edges on the cylinder and cocking slots that were so sharp you could have shaved on them…
    20210218_225749.jpg 20210218_225831.jpg 20210218_225837.jpg 20210218_225920.jpg

    ...and the spring had more kinks than a “gimps gathering”…(not the first time I have used that phase either…).
    20210212_122013.jpg


    As my mate had NEVER seen a springer taken apart…. I did it there and then as he sat in my Garage at a suitable social distance AND both of us wearing face masks....….

    With the use of the ACME Hals Springer Spring Compressor) made only a few days before for another springer job..) I methodically stripped the rifle before his very eyes…

    The look of absolute bewilderment and awe was priceless as I removed 1 part at a time and showed him what it was, how it fit and what it did….

    However, when it came to removing the main spring, it was necessary for me to grab the coils of the spring in the vice.. and pull like burgery to yank off the cylinder… (THAT’S how bad the sprink was kinked…. and there was some serious galling under the cocking slot.

    At that moment in time, and as every component laid bare on the work bench…according to my mate…. I was “The Springer Whisperer”.

    He went away in absolute raptures of my ability to safely dis-assemble a springer, not to loose any parts and explaining just how it worked…

    So, now came the fun part….. THE FETTLING…..

    After through clean up of ALL the parts, checking to see whats what and whats not…. A number of issues were found as it soon became evident that Mr A.N Other had been in the rifle and …. Not been as mechanically sympathetic as what "some of us" may be.....……

    For example;-

    1) A 6mm piece of metal pin was in the 6.4mm diameter main breech pivot holes…(sloppy and virtually fell out). And the barrel had about 3mm arcing drift in the slotted location..
    So it was necessary to ream out the holes to 6.5mm and to make a new hardened silver steel pivot pin.. and blue it...
    20210212_172139.jpg 20210212_172153.jpg

    2) A 9mm piece of metal bar was in the 9.35mm diameter main spring locking hole.. and had not been notched for the spring guide crown location...
    So, again it was necessary to ream the holes out to 10mm and to make a recessed spring pin from hardened silver steel... and blue that too.
    20210218_174531.jpg

    3) The piston buffer collapsed into a powdering mass when split…and the rubber o ring seal was like Bakerlite….
    The piston head was marked as was the body of the piston slider.


    These were just a few of the obstacles to overcome to try and resurrect the MK5 Meteor….

    Anyway, a new Titan No. 5 spring, breech seal, piston o ring and buffer were ordered and fitted.
    For the record, it was necessary to cut off the 1st 3 full coils of the No. 5 spring and level and polish the end of the spring, leaving about 35mm of coil outside the end of the cylinder body (prior to compression).

    Prior to any external work, I deglazed the internals of the cylinder with a 3 legged honing tool...and polished the inside corners of the cocking slot.

    Upon request I was asked to paint the barrel and cylinder satin black (which I did a little begrudgingly...).

    EVERY sharp edge off all the slots were chamfered and fully de-burred, as was the cocking lever shoe. A delrin "wear strip" was made and fitted into the inside of the cocking arm in order to stop any galling on the cylinder body.
    20210218_225852.jpg


    So all the parts were laid out prior to assembly.
    20210218_174524.jpg

    The piston head polished as was the piston body. New O ring and buffer washer fitted.
    20210212_124733.jpg

    The trigger sear was polished parallel and the contact surfaces polished too.

    And as a "just in case due to the barrel slop in the breech arms, I made 2 off 0.005" brass shims (just in case...)
    20210213_105042.jpg

    And just to make it look a bit better, the rust on the trigger guard was wire brushed off and the metal work was re-blued...
    20210218_225907.jpg

    The correct application of moly grease to the steel to steel interfaces as well as the coils of the spring... and the whole lot was finally assembled this evening ready for testing in the morning...

    So for you delectation, here is the finished item....

    ADDITIONAL NOTE, the rifles owner will strip and finish off the stock....

    20210218_225749.jpg 20210218_225831.jpg 20210218_225837.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  2. shergar

    shergar Big Poster

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    Might need to fit a rubbing strip to stock under articulated linkage to avoid the double click when cocking rifle. I used ptfe sheet but any hard plastic will do.
     
    Halinfax likes this.
  3. paj

    paj Posting Addict

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    Thanks for a nice write up, should be very useful info for many.
     
  4. Peddy

    Peddy Posting Addict

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    Nice job and write up Hal. Reminds me of a nasty mk5 I did a similar job on apart from the barrel shims. Did you machine down the domed piston head or did it come like that? Did you fit a hw breech seal? After opening the transfer port mine it shot very well at 11fpe with superdomes, with original spring from protek. What's yours running at now with the titan spring?
     
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  5. Kj1

    Kj1 Posting Addict

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    Proper job, nice write up n pics :thumb:
     
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  6. Molgraze

    Molgraze Donator

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    :thumb:
    Brilliant reading Hal, Glad you’re back in the mix!
     
    Halinfax likes this.
  7. Halinfax

    Halinfax Full time tinkerer and general all round nice guy

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    Heyup Shergar.. yes mate, its proud of the top face of the cocking arm by about 0.75mm. cocks quite smoothly now..
     
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  8. Halinfax

    Halinfax Full time tinkerer and general all round nice guy

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    Heyup Peddy, The piston is as it came out (except for me polishing it up), fitted a standard BSA seal and the TP is as is.

    I did make a "high compression piston" for my own Meteor when I re-did that last year...

    From L to R... standard piston, one I made some 40 years ago and the "high compression" piston made..
    20200503_141001.jpg 20200503_141037.jpg


    Am hoping to get it through the chrono tomorrow using some JSB RS pellets...

    Will keep this post informed...
     
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  9. Bozz

    Bozz Posting Addict

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    As usual a fantastic write up and full of knowledge keep it up Kidda your the king . Graham.
     
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  10. Peddy

    Peddy Posting Addict

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  11. Halinfax

    Halinfax Full time tinkerer and general all round nice guy

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    Cheers mate, I too made a steel top hat counterbored for the locking nut that held the head on...

    I pulled the rifle apart this morning and decided to lose another coil off the spring and to tickle the piston face flat (as you mentioned).

    I also noticed that the barrel pivot pin was 0.7mm too long and was slightly restricting the arms of the stock from "cradling" the steel arms of the breech so that got tickled and re-blued..

    I may make some brass inserts for the stock side screws as they are WELL WORN and don't give a "positive" feel when nipped up. I may also tap out the breech arm holes to M5 and make new screws too... (its the habitual tinkerer in me!!!!!)

    Will re-assemble (again) and test it through the chrono.
     
  12. Lostkiwi

    Lostkiwi Tomorrow will be a good day.

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    Great write up Hal.
    Always good to read your clear and concise posts about fettling stuff. :thumb:
     
    Halinfax likes this.
  13. ggggr

    ggggr Crap old gun tinkerer and wine maker

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    Al--Firstly, congratulaions on doing a good job. Secondly, the person who had the gun probably wasnt as much as a DIVI as you suspect.;) When you mentioned the galling on the underside of the cylinder, I thought it was because it was a Mk5 Meteor, with the built up cocking arm. I do not like them as they have a habit of doing what you have said. If you check the number on the breech block, it is a TH number which is a Mk5---------so somebody has swapped to a 1 piece cocking arm to sort the problem out! From memory you either have to crush the cockiing arm a little or open the slot in the breech block. Also I think the pin is a tiny bit different in size.
    If you look at the 1 piece coccking arm while cocking the gun, you will see that it moves away from the cylinder and cannot cause that damage, so that rubbing strip isnt necessary.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2021
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  14. Peddy

    Peddy Posting Addict

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    You do right with the brass inserts. Worn stock screw holes is main cause of the breech jaws being opened up. I also put a small washer on the barrel plunger spring to add a bit of preload so the lock up was solid.
     
    Halinfax likes this.
  15. Halinfax

    Halinfax Full time tinkerer and general all round nice guy

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    Heyup Gggg, thanks for the comments mate... Indeed, when cocking the gun with the single arm cocking lever there is no probability of the arm galling.. BUT.. I did it just the same!!!!
    The Prefix was a TH 93**** so between 79-93... :thumb:
     
  16. Halinfax

    Halinfax Full time tinkerer and general all round nice guy

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    UPDATE..... following 2nd strip down and removal of another coil and re-forming, machining 1.00mm off the piston face and lightly grinding/polishing the "seam" inside the piston body and another full re-assemble.. the action was a lot smoother and definitive.

    Testing through the new chrono with a 10 shot string I got these readings...

    Pellet used - JSB RS .22 0.87gramm 13.43 grain

    Max fps 538.4 (8.65 ft/lb)
    Min fps 532.2 ( 8.45 ft/lb)
    Ave fps - 535.4 (8.55 ft/lb)

    10 shot spread - 6.2 ft/sec

    Average Power - 8.55 ft/lb

    The bloke was MORE than happy with that.
     
    Peddy, shadowryder, paj and 2 others like this.
  17. steve9956

    steve9956 Keyboard Hero

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    Great write up buddy, keep up the good work! :thumb:
     
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