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A Few Q's About A Restoration...

Discussion in 'Anything Airgun Related' started by R J Molak, Nov 4, 2019.

  1. R J Molak

    R J Molak Active Member

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    Hello all,
    So, as posted in my other post, I have embarked on a restoration journey of my very old and very sorry looking HW80.
    Strip down went smoothly however it revealed a few probs. Besides some external rust I have a piston chamber that definitely will need trueing and a polish. The piston will need polishing and most of the metal needs blacking. So far I have cleaned and degreased all metal.
    Here are a few questions: I'm wandering about blacking or leaving polished (satin) bare steel, what are the pros and cons in terms of maintenance and everyday use (some in field, but mainly on a range)? And who best could help me with polish and trueing of the piston and the piston chamber or could I do it myself with a drill and flap head polishing/abrasive? I'm a newbie to air rifles and newbie at maintanace and refurbishment and do not possess lathe and a mill...lol. And I'm attempting to do the whole project in my spare room. Wife not happy, but compliant...lol
     
    rabbitwrecker and C220w205 like this.
  2. Jagdwaffen

    Jagdwaffen Suns up guns up

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    If I were you matey I'd try and return it back to its original appearance/ condition....blackd for me rather than polished steel. Good luck with it too....

    :worthless:
     
    foxtrott and rabbitwrecker like this.
  3. Blackmax

    Blackmax Rebel!

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    Hi,
    First of all, get a new wife, you can then put the parts all over the house! :laff:

    Secondly, original is best, blacking gives some protection to the metal and looks best. @Paul Chell on here is your man for blacking.

    With regard to the mechanics, post your progress on here with pictures and there'll be people to help and assist you along the way.

    Good luck! :up:
     
    shauny, R J Molak, foxtrott and 3 others like this.
  4. rabbitwrecker

    rabbitwrecker Black Latex Matters...

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    For a reblue, I'd suggest you talk to Paul Chell, (on this forum) - his work is very highly respected... :up:
     
    foxtrott likes this.
  5. Wofty

    Wofty 'This is the way'

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    What do you mean by 'truing the cylinder'?
    It's scored?
    Piston. Stick the latch rod in a drill and spin it up using fine abrasive paper. Cleans up in a jiffy. Only the skirt and behind the piston seal ride the bore. You'll see wear marks. You can progressively polish to a mirror shine.
    I clean the cylinder by making abrasive tools from dowel and using a drill to clean up. It's just a case of blending out any deep scratches.
    As for blue that's a catch 22.
    If you go to an RFD they charge an arm and leg for proper bluing.
    Paul Chell here does chemical blacking but obviously it's not an original finish.
    Cold blue kits are rubbish for longevity.
    You could try a mild abrasive cleaner like T cut to remove the rust then polish up with Renaissance wax.
    It really depends on how you want to restore. As per original or a refurbishment.
    If you search here there's plenty of refurbishment/restoration threads full of info.
     
    foxtrott and rabbitwrecker like this.
  6. R J Molak

    R J Molak Active Member

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    So far the following are barrell before pics.
    IMG_20191102_174146.jpg surface rust, no pitting. IMG_20191102_170821.jpg
    IMG_20191102_170725.jpg
    IMG_20191102_170652.jpg
    Worst patch. The barrell and breach are now for the most part rust free and clean. I'll be posting more pics as I go along.
     

    Attached Files:

    rabbitwrecker likes this.
  7. R J Molak

    R J Molak Active Member

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    Much appreciated. Piston is getting the treatment your way today! I'll post pre and post pics later. Many thanks!
     
  8. Blackmax

    Blackmax Rebel!

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    There's a Rekord trigger service guide I put on here too if you need it.
     
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  9. Wofty

    Wofty 'This is the way'

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    Personally I think if you want to stay original then that barrel has a nice patina.
    Bit of 0000 wirewool and oil and lightly rub it to remove surface rust.
    Abrasives remove rust but also some blue.
    Try the colour match black T Cut gently.
    I'm afraid it's your decision if you want it's vintage appeal or like new.
    With a reblue or chemical black there's no in between.
     
  10. R J Molak

    R J Molak Active Member

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    That's what I've been doing. 0000 wool and oil. I got much of the rust off, because I wanted to preserve as much of the original blacking as possible so I could make a decision later. Would having it stripped back to bare metal and then satined make it more difficult to care for in daily use?
     
    rabbitwrecker likes this.
  11. Wofty

    Wofty 'This is the way'

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    What do you mean by satined?
    Lacquer I presume?
    The trouble with any finish like that is it adds thickness so in areas like the breech its rubbed off. Not really a big problem as you can use a thin wipe of grease there.
    If you like the stainless look I guess there's no reason not to.
     
  12. Bunny-on-Bunny

    Bunny-on-Bunny Posting Addict

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    If you can keep the original bluing keep it.
    If it's coming off then I'd highly recommend sending it to Mr Chell.
    Cold bluing...
    You Can get an 'original' sorta finish but if you're unlucky like me it will cost you 3 kits and third time lucky it'll come out looking 'just about' passable, but will be more more fragile than a box of unpacked Fabergé Eggs.
    My 77 has proven to be a money pit and it's Still only making 6lb/f...
     
    foxtrott likes this.
  13. R J Molak

    R J Molak Active Member

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    PY-4702_Remington-Model-777SB-177_1534880075.jpg
    Stainless steel but not mirror polish, matte stainless steel...I realise it's a matter of taste but what I suppose I'd like to know is how does stainless finish compare to blacked. Would it rust more than blacking? The pic attached is the look I'm considering. PY-4702_Remington-Model-777SB-177_1534880075.jpg
     
  14. R J Molak

    R J Molak Active Member

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    Cheers Bunny, once I get all the metal bits to a decent state I'm definitely going to approach Mr Chell, lots of members recommend him.
     
    Bunny-on-Bunny and Paul Chell like this.
  15. Paul Chell

    Paul Chell Keyboard Hero

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    you can pm me anytime your ready I can guarantee a better than new finish and ive lots of pics to show you if needed
     
    R J Molak, Wofty and Bunny-on-Bunny like this.
  16. R J Molak

    R J Molak Active Member

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    Thank you Paul, as soon as I make my mind up about blacking, I will. I'm struggling wether to black it or polish to bare steel in satin finish... Aesthetics I suppose, but I'd like to find out how practical would stainless finish be. I know blacking is very durable and easy to care for.
     
  17. R J Molak

    R J Molak Active Member

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    You are right, the piston chamber is not scored, but what is scored is the bit close to the end cap where the original spring must have hit it. Do yo think I can leave that as is?
     
  18. robs5230

    robs5230 Oversprung

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    As you seem to be new at the game, go careful with tools / abrasives. Once you remove metal you can't put any back.
    The pic you show of the rifle with a satin finish, will have a coating on it. Personally I'd forget that idea.
    Removing all the bluing and leaving bare metal will make regular maintenence tricky and you'll struggle to prevent rust.

    I'd recommend either just removing what rust you can with 00 steel wool and oil or have it reblacked.

    Very careful with the inside of the cylinder. To get best advice, you'll need to put good pics up of the damage.
    I'd avoid any contact with abrasives forward of the cocking slot if possible as this is the compression area of the cylinder.
    If you go at it a little too hard you may ruin compression.

    80's are worth restoring. A good restoration will increase the value. A bad one won't.
    Good luck.
     
    Peter Norris likes this.
  19. Wofty

    Wofty 'This is the way'

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    If the scoring is down by the end cap it will have no impact on the piston seal and compression.
    I would make sure it's not burred and not worry.
     
  20. R J Molak

    R J Molak Active Member

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    Thanks Robs, this makes sense. Blueing it is then. I'm looking to have the 80 as maintenance free as possible when complete. Thanks for the lowdown on the stainless steel, that helped.
     

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