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      by Published on 11-06-2014 11:31 AM  Number of Views: 7504 

      In my experience air cylinders for filling PCPs are one of the least-understood areas of airgunning; an issue compounded by the fact that there doesn't appear to be a whole lot on info about on the internetz.

      While undeniably utilitarian and wholly uninteresting compared to other bits of shooting kit, air cylinders are an integral part of the ritual for many of us with PCPs; so it pays (literally) to get a decent example that's suited to the task in hand.

      A quick look on ebay will illustrate the ridiculous amounts of money people will pay for cylinders that are effectively worthless; I've also noticed a few "got this off ebay / a mate / a bloke down the pub" posts on the forum too. In an effort to prevent the good people of AGF being ripped off, here's a quick and dirty guide to buying an air cylinder.

      I don't claim to know everything (so please correct me if you spot an error and something I've neglected) however paying attention to the factors listed below will get you a long way towards the getting the best compressed air storage for your money.


      Pressure

      Typically air cylinders are available in three working /service pressures (often expressed as PW or PS) - 207, 232 and 300bar.

      Air rifles are usually filled to around 180-200bar - so for our purposes the cylinder is effectively empty once it falls below this pressure. Assuming a 200bar rifle fill pressure, a 207bar cylinder only has a 7bar "head" and hence won't give many fills. with 32bar of head a 232bar cylinder will give around 4.5 times more fills than the 207bar cylinder (assuming the same cylinder capacity) while a 300bar cylinder will give 14 times more fills than the 207bar bottle and around three times as many as the 232bar item.

      Because of the above it's advisable to go for a 300bar cylinder. 232bar in larger sizes is OK at a push while 207bar cylinders should be avoided full stop. Pretty much all new cylinders are 300bar, however there are plenty of 232 and 207bar units on the used market.

      Cylinders are tested to 150% of their working pressure; so a 207bar WP cylinder would be tested to 311bar, 232bar WP to 348bar and 300bar WP to 450 bar test pressure. Be aware that sometimes sellers quote the test pressure rather than the working pressure (mistakenly or otherwise ) - seeing any of the test pressures mentioned here (or indeed anything over 300bar) stated as the working pressure should set alarm bells ringing.

      The working and test pressures will be stamped around the bottle's upper hemisphere; just below the neck. Working pressure is usually expressed as "PS" while test pressure is most commonly written as "PT" - for example a 232bar cylinder will be marked something like "PS232BAR PT348BAR".

      The pressure information on this 300bar cylinder ("PS300PT450BAR") pictured below can clearly be seen in the middle row of text, above the date:





      Capacity

      Most commonly cylinders come in 3, 7 and 12 litre capacities; however other sizes do exist. Cost per unit capacity does come down as capacity increases (at around £140 a 3L 300bar cylinder costs about £47 per litre, while a £195 7L 300bar cylinder costs around £28 per litre), however consider how much air you're likely to use as well as storage and carriage. Larger cylinders are inevitably both bigger and heavier, so factor this in when buying.

      You can't really consider capacity independently of pressure. At 300bar, a 3L cylinder is perfect for most recreational users of 12ftlb machinery (I'd expect maybe 15-20 fills of a full-length Air Arms S410 of 212cc capacity from such a cylinder). A 7 litre will be of more use to those who shoot a lot and people with FAC air, while units of this capacity and the larger 12 Litre bottles are great for sharing or club use. At 232bar anything less than 10 or 12 litres is best forgotten IMO.

      In keeping with the example given for pressure, a good rule of thumb is that a cylinder at 300bar will hold about as much "useful" air as a 232bar cylinder of three times the capacity - so a 4L 300bar cylinder will give as many fills as a 12 litre 232bar cylinder (and is a lot smaller and more manageable).

      As with pressure, capacity in litres is usually stamped on the cylinder - the bottle in the image below has a capacity of 15.0L:





      Material

      Cylinders are typically available in one of three materials - Steel, Aluminium and Composite. Cylinder test intervals are the same regardless of material - being defined instead by the valve type fitted (see below).

      Steel is the most common material, it is also the heaviest but arguably the least potential hassle. Steel is a sturdy and predictable material but can corrode (then again so can most other things); with internal corrosion being the most potentially dangerous.

      Aluminium is significantly lighter than steel (although wall thickness for a given pressure will be greater due to the materials lower strength), although again it can corrode and can also suffer from issues relating to constant and cyclic loading. Apparently the alloy used for some earlier cylinders is prone to cracking so may require a crack test in addition to the standard hydrostatic test.

      Composite cylinders are usually constructed from carbon fibre and/or aramid fibre (kevlar) reinforced plastic, sometimes with an internal aluminium liner. These cylinders are the lightest of them all, however due to the difficulty of identifying damage in composites (as well as their very low strain to failure behaviour, meaning they give little warning before they let go) they are usually given a finite lifespan after which they cannot legally be filled (they're still subject to periodic hydrostatic testing during their lifetime). This lifespan is usually in the order of 10-15yrs, but of course it pays to check before parting with cash!

      Note that composite cylinders will not have identification / specs stamped into their surface - instead it will be etched, painted or stuck on (at a guess - I've not handled many).

      Of the three I prefer Steel (since I'm tight and want the cylinder to last forever ) however if you feel the mass advantage of other materials is critical you might think differently.



      Valve Type

      The type of valve fitted to the cylinder is of great importance to shooters.

      When PCPs were just becoming available cylinders intended for the much-more-established diving industry were used to fill them; all of which were (and are) subject to a 2.5yr test interval. As the demand for cylinders to fill air rifles increased, bottles began being supplied with dedicated valve assemblies; incorporating (in addition to the usual valve knob and threaded DIN outlet or A-clamp post) a bleed valve and pressure gauge. Since these cylinders are unsuitable for use in water, they're designated "surface use only" and are subject to test intervals of 5yrs on account of their less corrosive operating environment. A good, common example of this valve type is the Midland Diving Equipment (MDE) "Jubilee" valve.

      The cost of a test for either valve type is the same (typically £20-£45, depending on where you are in the country). It makes sense to take the "surface use" cylinder over "sub-surface use" alternatives; since over a reasonable lifetime you'll pay half as much for tests and be without the cylinder for less time. It's worth noting that some cylinders with sub-surface valves occasionally crop up with "surface use only" stickers on them - since the test is defined by valve type most people consider them to still be subject to the shorter test interval


      The cylinder pictured below has a surface use / 5yr test MDE Jubilee valve fitted:




      Despite being a bit less common than the MDE valve, the Hydrotech valve shown below is also surface use / 5yr test as it has an integrated gauge and bleed:




      Conversely the Faber cylinder shown below is fitted with a 2.5yr-test sub-surface valve - since it has not integral gauge and bleed assembly:




      One final thing to remember regarding valve type is the additional DIN-fitting gauge and bleed assembly required for sub-surface cylinders - often this is not included used and will cost around £60 new / £35 used, like this one:





      Test Period

      The remaining test left on the cylinder is a very important consideration when buying. Primarily it shows how long the cylinder will be able to be filled before you have to incur the cost and hassle of testing. In addition, there's always a small element of uncertainty and risk when testing, since the cylinder could theoretically fail and become a total loss.

      A cylinder is an unknown quantity if untested; reducing the value by significantly more than the cost of the test alone. As an example, a used 3L 300bar that might be worth £70-90 with a test would only legitimately be worth £20-30 out of test, if that.

      Depending on the cylinder's valve type (as explained above) it will need testing either 2.5 or 5 years after manufacture. When tested some centres stamp the new expiry date on the cylinder (which is usually highlighted / corrosion-proofed with paint), while the more common / recent method is to attach a sticker to the neck area. Such stickers are blue and display a grid of months on one side and years on the other - the appropriate test expiry date is punched out on each side.

      These two features are illustrated in the image below; it can be seen that according to the sticker the most recent test expired in Jan 2010 and the cylinder had been tested twice before that - as indicated by the gold-painted stampings beneath the sticker.




      Finally it's worth noting that cylinders are only required to be in test to be filled, not used. This means that you can extend the life of your cylinder somewhat by getting it filled just before the test period runs out; maximising the period between tests.



      Condition

      The most important surface on any bottle is its interior, since this is subject to the most stress. Unfortunately this is also the hardest to inspect; which is only usually done during a test. That said cylinder with significant external corrosion (on metal cylinders) or damage are best avoided and give a clue to how they've been treated. In addition be wary of cylinders that have been stored empty / with their valves open, as this could promote internal corrosion.



      Age

      To an extent the age of a cylinder goes hand in hand with its pressure and valve type; so if paying attention to these factors a lot of old cylinders should be ruled out anyway. If given the choice a newer cylinder is probably a safer bet, all things being equal; however the condition and remaining test period are more important.

      The manufacture date should be stamped on the top of the bottle with the other information (pressure, capacity etc) and is usually expressed as year/month - so a cylinder marked 2013/08 would have been manufactured in August 2013 (the date can be seen in the first image in this post that also illustrates bottle pressure specs).



      So there we go. It's a bit of a minefield (that's fairly easy to negotiate once you know how ), and knowing a few key things can help you identify the difference between a cylinder that's worth the asking price and one that's literally worthless.

      As a rough guide, used 300bar 3L, surface-use cylinders are worth maybe £70-90 if in test, perhaps £20 if not. Around £110-130 tested / £30-50 untested is a fair price for similar 7L cylinders, as is maybe £140-160 tested / £40-60 untested for 12L types. New cylinders have recently come down in price so it may take a while for the used market to adjust.

      To be honest I'd always look for a 300bar steel cylinder with surface use valve and at least 2-3yrs of remaining test. Large capacity surface use 232bar cylinders might be worth a look if tested and dirt cheap, as might sub surface 300bar cylinders if you can stomach the drawbacks of either type. Aluminium and composite items might be worth a look if weight really is a problem, although be aware of the potential issues. Avoid 207bar cylinders completely as they're effectively worthless.

      Also remember that even if it's free, a low-pressure, sub-surface bottle with no gauge assy or test will potentially cost a lot more to get going than a used bottle of better spec, will cost more in the long run and still won't provide an ideal solution. Just because it's free, doesn't mean it's a bargain!


      ..and in my head I imagined that all as a few paragraphs tops

      I hope this post will reduce the frequency of future forum threads devoted to the purchase of overpriced and unsuitable scrappers - there's no longer an excuse for not knowing what to buy
      by Published on 13-03-2013 21:57 PM  Number of Views: 4794 

      I thought I would take the time to explain the differences between a spring and a Gas Ram/Strut as there is a bit of confusion and misunderstanding of the differences of operation between the two. I make no claim to be an expert on either springs or physics. (Mods, you might want to make this a ‘Sticky’)

      So, first of, lets look at the two items in question.

      Spring.



      A Spring Airgun is powered by a coil spring that has evenly spaced coils known as a ‘Linear rate’ spring. The spring is manufactured by winding round section (or sometime square section) spring steel in a coil to give the classic spring shape. The spring works by placing the steel in torsion when it is compressed. That is to say, the steel is actually twisted every slightly along it’s length when compressed. The spring steel wants to always resist this torsional twisting and this is what makes the spring to return to its untwisted state and in doing so, provides the force that acts against compression.

      So, if you paid attention in your physics class at school (who didn’t? own up) you may remember something called ‘Hookes Law’. Basically this chap called Hooke came up with a simple formula that states if a spring is deflected (compressed or stretched) by a force X and compresses/extends by a factor of Y, then for a compression force of 2X the spring will deflect by a factor of 2Y. Put in simple terms, if 1kg of force compresses the spring by 1cm, then 2kg will deflect the spring by 2cm. 8 kg will deflect the spring by 8cm etc etc. There will come a point when the force applied to the spring will cause the spring to fail, this is known as exceeding Hookes law. Have you ever held a small extension spring from a ballpoint pen and stretched it and noticed there comes a point when the spring no longer keeps its shape? in this case the force you applied has exceeded Hookes law.

      Hookes law explained;





      Key Point –

      The fact that with a spring, if you double the force, you double the amount of stretch/compression of the spring. If a spring is compressed with a force of 10kg and the spring is then restrained (held back) it has the force of 10kg (latent energy) wanting to extend it back to its natural uncompressed/stretched state. In a cocked spring air rifle, the force used to compress the spring is the same force that wants to extend the spring and push the piston forward. When fired, at the halway point of the pistons travel the force acting on it is also halved.

      Gas Ram/Strut



      In a gas ram, there is sealed cylinder within which is a sealed piston attached to a compression rod. In front of the piston is a gas (air in most cases). When the compression rod is pushed into the cylinder, the piston is moved forward and compresses the air in front of it. Gases or in this case air, don’t like being compressed and instead want to return to their pre-compressed state which in most cases is atmospheric pressure.

      So, if after paying attention in your physics class you remembered Hookes law, you may have stayed awake long enough to remember Boyles law. Now this chap Boyle was interested in Gases and what happens when you compress them. He came up with another simple formula that states that the absolute pressure and volume of a given mass of confined gas are inversely proportional, if the temperature remains unchanged within a closed system. In other words, when the volume is halved, the pressure is doubled; so if the volume is doubled, the pressure is halved. So in our Gas Ram, if we compress the volume of gas inside it by halving it (by pushing the piston against it) the pressure of the gas is doubled. All very good, so know if we halve the volume again with more compression, that pressure is again doubled to what it was. In other words, unlike a linear spring rate where everything is double X = double Y, in a Gas Ram, the compression rate is not Linear but progressive. With each bit of compression movement, we need a lot more force to overcome the pressure of the gas. People often notice that an Air rifle with a Gas Strut is harder to cock at the end of the stroke because the force acting against the piston is becoming greater and greater but disproportionate to the amount of force on the cocking lever. This is Boyles law in action.

      Boyles law explained and demo;

      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Bo...w_animated.gif



      Key Point –

      With a Gas Strut in its compressed state, the initial force acting against the piston will diminish faster as the gas is allowed to expand against the piston and the relationship of this force to the pistons movement is NOT LINEAR. If a Gas Strut is compressed with a force of 10kg and the piston rod is then restrained (held back) it has the force of 10kg (latent energy) wanting to extend it back to its natural uncompressed/stretched state. But by halfway through it extension, the force is not 5KG but proportionately less.

      What does this mean in terms of the difference in ‘lock time’ between the two?

      By the term ‘Lock Time’ we are referring to what happens when we pull the trigger and the energy stored within either the spring or Gas Strut is released.

      Spring gun

      By remembering our key point, in the spring gun the piston is forced forward with a progressively diminishing force exerted by the spring. Without getting into the physics of acceleration and in order to keep it simple, when the trigger releases the sear the piston is pushed forward with a relatively smooth acceleration force along it length of travel. As we know, every force has an equal and opposite force and in this case, this produces the familiar backwards nudge of the gun we call ‘Recoil.

      Gas Ram

      Again, by remembering our key point that the compression of the strut is not linear, when the trigger releases the sear, a greater amount of force than in a spring gun (due to the compressed Gas) pushed the piston forward very rapidly but this force rapidly diminishes along the pistons travel, however the force exerted in the initial phase of the acceleration more than makes up for the rapidly diminishing force as the piston moves forwards. Again, we know that for each force there is an equal and opposite force and in the case of the Gas Ram, the force is rapid recoil that is over very quickly.

      To put the comparison between the two into layman’s terms, imagine two cars, one powered by a large petrol engine, the other by a short burn but powerful rocket. The petrol car will accelerate rapidly but progressively (spring gun) and the rocket car with shoot forwards more rapidly but runs out of puff shortly after. In an air rifle, it is this initial acceleration that is the part that we are interested in.

      What does all this mean in terms of shooting a Spring Gun or a Gas Ram?

      Gas Rams are a bit like Marmite, you either love them (many do) or some people just don’t get on with them. In terms of shooting, with a Gas Ram the initial recoil kick is much sharper but lasts less time, whereas in a spring gun the recoil is smoother but over a longer period. There are many arguments for accuracy with both spring and Gas Strut but it may be that the shorter ‘snappier’ recoil of a Gas Ram may upset the aim less as it is over and done with so quickly whereas with a spring gun, the shooter must ‘follow through’ with the shot for longer.

      Q&A’s

      1. Q -Will a Gas Ram make my spring gun a PCP?
      A – No it won’t. It is a Gas Strut Air Rifle

      2. Q – Can I fit a Gas Ram conversion to any spring gun?
      A – Not all air rifles. Due to the design of a Gas Strut, they can only be fitted into Spring Guns that DO NOT have a rod running through the centre of the piston for the trigger sear to engage (as per HW’s and Air Arms & Others)

      3. Q – Will a Gas Strut make my rifle quieter internally?
      A – Yes it should, as there is only the strut and the piston without any spring or guides to rattle around inside the rifle when firing

      4. Q – Will a Gas Strut improve my air rifle?
      A – in many cases YES, however they are like Marmite and not all guns seem to suit a Gas Ram conversion

      5. Q - Will a Gas Ram keep is ‘power’?
      A – In theory, if it doesn’t leak any gas it will last indefinitely at the same power, however they do tend to lose a bit of gas over time

      6. Q – Are Gas Rams better suited to FAC levels?
      A – Gas rams can be used at below and above FAC levels but for VERY high power FAC levels it can be argued that a Gas Rams is better suited than a spring.

      7. Q - Can I leave a Gas Ram cocked indefinitely?
      A - As long as no gas (air) leaks out, a compressed gas strut will retain its extension force indefinitely but in reality, a certain amount of gas leakage over time is to be expected.

      8. Q - Are Springs or Gas Rams affected by temperature?
      A - A spring on it's own won't be affected by normal ranges of temperature it will encounter in use, however, the grease that is lubricating it will, becoming more viscous in the cold and less viscous with heat, both of which will have an affect on it's operation. In theory, a Gas Ram WILL be affected by temperature since it contains sealed gas and with a rise in temperature, the gas will want to expand and in theory exert more force. However, I have yet to see any evidence to back this up to date.

      Lastly

      I make no claims to be an expert on either Gas Rams, Springs or Physics. If anyone feels that any element of this post needs correcting then please PM me, let me know the problem and if required, I will amend the post accordingly.

      Hope you enjoy the read and find it interesting.
      by Published on 18-12-2012 17:43 PM  Number of Views: 5546 

      The Scottish Government has announced that it will introduce a law requiring that all low powered airguns be registered. It hasstated that it will not consult on whether or not to introduce this law, only on how it will be introduced.
      The only way forward at this stage to help prevent this draconian piece of legislation being enacted is for all shooting disciplines from throughout the UK and right thinking people to come together and express their feelings. If it is not stopped, further restrictions will follow.
      The “proposals” can be read through this link, worth doing to see how ill thought out and undemocratic they are.
      http://www.basc.org.uk/en/utilities/document-summary.cfm/docid/EDAB451D-4992-46C2-A36905E394383BB8
      The introduction of this law can be stopped but this will require action from the whole shooting community.
      Please sign, as a first step, the BASC led petition at:
      https://www.change.org/en-GB/petitions/scottish-government-to-drop-all-proposals-to-licence-air-weapons-in-scotland
      Please pass this on to your fellow shooters, friends andfamily and ask them to sign as well.
      Many thanks
      by Published on 17-07-2012 07:32 AM  Number of Views: 31679 

      Well thanks to some of you guys helping with testing, Chrono Connect Mobile is now available on Google Play!

      It comes in 2 flavours, Lite and Pro.

      Lite

      The Lite version has all the basic functionality you need to read the speed of a shot from your gun. You need to enter 3 distances, the pellet weight and the pellet BC value ( Most available at ChronoConnect.com ) and you can begin shooting.



      The app will display the speed of the pellets, the power it equates to and the min and max values recorded for each.

      Pro

      The Pro version has many more cool features such as,


      • Unlimited shots in one go ( no 3 shot 'Lite' limit ).
      • Full list of shots in the string.
      • Graph of shots in the string.
      • Full shot and string management.
      • Comprehensive pellet database ( no need to manually enter weights and BC values for most pellets )
      • Comprehensive rifle and pistol database.
      • Visual over power warnings.




      Both are available now on Google Play. Lite is FREEEEE so why not download it and have a play.

      Cheers
      Stot
      by Published on 24-05-2012 23:49 PM  Number of Views: 11207 

      Well we will have stocks of these very soon three types

      Synthetic LGV Challenger Ultra will be £374.95 approx

      Wooden LGV Master Ultra will be £449.95

      Wooden LGV Competition Ultra Field Target will be £490

      Here's what all the fuss is about!









      by Published on 14-12-2011 21:25 PM  Number of Views: 9162 

      The subject of V Mach kits crops up a lot in terms of where do I get one, what do they do, how easy are they to fit etc so I have started to produce a V Mach 'guide', having fitted a fair few myself over the years. Perhaps we can make this a 'Sticky' on the forum. Please feel free to add anything and if suitable, I can add this into the guide.


      1. What is a V Mach ‘Tuning’ Kit?

      A V Mach kit is a kit of precision custom internal components, tailored for each individual air gun that replaces the standard factory fitted internal components. V Mach kits vary from model to model of air gun but some may contain additional components to those fitted as standard by the factory. All Kits come with components, Lubricants and a set of fitting instructions.

      Here is a typical V Mach Kit contents




      2. Where do you get a V Mach kit from?

      V Mach Kits can be supplied direct form V Mach
      http://www.air-rifle-tuning.com/v-mach/Home.html.
      Alternatively you can purchase them from Blackpool Air Rifles
      http://airgunbuyer.com/
      or DAI Leisure
      http://www.daileisure.co.uk/

      There are other suppliers but these are the main 3. Note:, if buying direct from V Mach, the owner Steve Pope is incredibly helpful and will provide phone/email support if required but please bare in mind he is a very busy man.

      There are also various air rifle tuners around the country who will supply and fit a V Mach kit for you. Top tuner Lyn Lewington is able to supply and fit a V Mach Kit for you – Tel 07530 381169 email airrifletuner@hotmail.com

      3. How easy is a V Mach Kit to fit?

      For the most part, a V Mach kit is able to be fitted by anyone with a basic set of tools and a modicum of knowledge. Difficulty will vary from airgun to airgun but if you have ever stripped and rebuilt your airgun you are capable of fitting a V Mach Kit. CAUTION – On some airguns the factory spring may be under a lot of pre-load and some form of spring compressor may be required for safety reasons. When fitting a V Mach kit, it is often the case that the V Mach spring is under LESS pre-load than the factory spring and therefore reassembly is much easier. The current UK power limit for non FAC airguns is 12 f/lbs and therefore it is ESSENTIAL that after fitting a V Mach kit the power is checked using a Chronograph to ensure the airgun remains under 12 f/lbs. It is a criminal offence to possess a FAC airgun without an Fire Arms liscence!!

      Here are the fitting instructions for a typical Airgun (Weihrauch HW80)
      https://files.me.com/v_mach/cu1zs9


      4. What difference will a V Mach kit make to your airgun?

      The V Mach kit is designed to Smooth the firing cycle of the airgun. It is NOT designed to make it more powerful although fine tuning of the final power level is possible by adjusting the spring preload using washers supplied in the kit (See note above re UK law for airgun power levels.

      The Main benefits are;
      · Less spring noise during firing, often referred to as ‘Twang’
      · Less recoil during firing
      · More consistent power levels shot to shot
      · Increased accuracy due to less recoil
      · Easier to cock
      · Restoration of factory power levels (and in some cases an increase) in worn airguns
      . Increase in re sale value of the gun due to incresed desireability

      5. What are the Nylon Spring Guide and 'Top Hat' for?

      Most airguns come as standard with a metal spring guide. As the spring uncoils from this during firing,the metal to metal contact can result in 'spring twang' as it is metal to metal contact. The Nylon spring guide within the kit smooths the process of the spring extending and prevent metal to metal contact, reducing spring 'twang'. The 'top hat' fits inside the piston and again, prevents metal to metal contact and when the rifle is cocked, the top hat and guide almost meet, meaning the spring is secured in perfect alignment on a continuous tube and when fired, the spring is able to extend smoothly, progressively and under control, reducing recoil and noise.

      6. How much grease should I use?

      As per the instructions, only use the supplied Moly Grease (NOT the supplied oil) to lubricate the piston seal, spring guide, top hat and piston skirt. A thin smear is all that is required, taking care not to get any on the face of the piston seal. Take care not to overdo the amount of grease.

      7. Why is the spring covered in a sticky white grease?

      This extra thick adhesive grease is designed to slow down the rate that the spring extends from the spring guide when firing by providing a level of adhesion between the spring and guide. This adhesion reduces the recoil on firing as the spring is extending gradually rather than being released in an uncontrolled manner.

      8. What power level should I aim to get?

      The UK legal limit is 12 F/Lbs for airguns (Rifles) and therefore a sensible 'buffer' is required to ensure your airgun stays within the legal limit. As a general guide, DO NOT exceed 11.5 F/Lbs after assembly. IMPORTANT Once the V Mach Kit is fitted, the components, especially the seal will 'bed in' and the power will increase. It is wise to re check the power level after 500 pellets to ensure the airgun power has not crept above 12 F/Lbs. Power levels are altered by adding/subtracting the supplied washers that fit inside the piston between the top hat and piston crown.

      9. I can't cock my airgun after fitting my V Mach Kit?

      If too many spring preload (power adjusting ) washers are added, it is possible in some rifles that the spring bcomes 'coil bound' (coils touch and cannot compress any further). If this happens, the piston will not be allowed to travel backwards far enough to engage the sear/safety. De-Cock the gun and remove a washer and try again.
      by Published on 10-08-2011 18:37 PM  Number of Views: 6045 

      Version 1.6 is out already.



      It now has some online functionality allowing you to submit guns and pellets to the database from inside the program and also allow you to update your own copy of the program to match the online databases whenever you like.


      Also unlocking can be done in program now making it much easier, and ProChrono Digital can now dump down its any of its saved strings into the program. Cheers to Andy for helping me get that right.

      www.chronoconnect.com

      Cheers
      Stot

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