Question Deep Pitting?

[brookesssy]

As a couple of you will know I am in the process of restoring my first gun. There is some really deep pitting on the barrel and was just wondering what the most successful way of getting things sorted was? I have been trying blue/rust remover with steel wool and also a drill brush...not having a lot of success with it. Any clues?
Cheers guys

[Jackroadkill]

Can you get some pictures? That would help us to see what the damage is like. If by pitting you mean actual depressions in the metal that's a totally different thing than just having very rusty spots on the metalwork.

Cheers,

JR

[GIRLYPANTS]

ive just had to clean up a gemini axsor that has pitting from rust on the barrel, i put the barrel in a cordless drill and spun it while rubbing fine wet n dry up n down, came up a treat, just got to reblue it now

[Dunkman]

You want to use these in an electric drill

http://abcpolishing.co.uk/fibral-flap-wheel/

They are a combination of emery cloth and scotchbrite so they lightly remove metal and buff at the same time. I use them a lot. Ideal for surface pitting caused by rust as it will take the metal back down slowly and evenly and you aren't having to do the work.

PM me if you want me to do it for you.

[GIRLYPANTS]

i dont use any sanding disc as they put hollows (dips) in the barrel, i sand and polish the barrel so its even with no hollows

[brookesssy]

Its properly into the metal, I have tried to photo but its tricky with the flash and a camera that is better than I deserve!

[GIRLYPANTS]

that is 1 of the worst pitting ive seen, might be best to etch primer and enamel it or powder coat

[tatsumi]

Thats in deep! Either way you do it you need to remove metal. I use the same method as GP, fix the drill secure in a vice, protect the breach end of the barrel and clamp up. For very minor jobs wire wool then scotchbritght with a little autosol will fix it good but thats gone in far.
Two ways to fix, either hide the pits as best as by spinning up and working up the grits a little with wet and dry, then finnish off with wirewool and autosol. You will smooth out the pits and polish them, not a ideal way but quick.
Last way, if you dont have a lathe( like we all do ) is ceramic cloth back strips from 100grit down to 1200 grit, then finnish off with a good polishing compound, the idea been you need to get the barrel diameter down to the depth of the pits.
Lots of work to do it right but the results will be good.

[Dunkman]

Bloody hell that atrocious.

Right, forget any sort of abrasive as you will be there for ages, even with machines.

My options would be these

A- If you want to re blue it then to remove that much metal it needs spinning up in a lathe if possible and then turned to rermove metal back to the level of the deepest pit but only if there is enough 'meat' on the cylinder to be able to do so.

B- This is the better option. If you are going to get it powder coated, it doesnt have to be bare metal. You could use a high heat epoxy over the whole lot. Leave to set and sand down so all the pits are filled. Then you can powder coat on top of the epoxy and job done- You need high heat resitence epoxy as they use heat to melt the ploymer powder when powder coating.

[Jackroadkill]

B- This is the better option. If you are going to get it powder coated, it doesnt have to be bare metal. You could use a high heat epoxy over the whole lot. Leave to set and sand down so all the pits are filled. Then you can powder coat on top of the epoxy and job done- You need high heat resitence epoxy as they use heat to melt the ploymer powder when powder coating.

That's it, fella - you could lathe the barrel, but I don't suppose you could lathe the cylinder due to the cocking slot. Get it clean, remove all traces of oxidisation and go for a poweder coat finish. I think Dunkman has given you the only solution.