Logun Axsor complete stripdown guide

[Crab Doctor]

Didn't take me long and here it is


Okay, so here we have the Logun Axsor




Make sure the gun is not loaded and the chamber is empty before beginning the strip



The first thing I did was to remove the name plate. Undo the middle screw first



Making sure you don't lose the spring



Then remove the left screw



Then remove the right hand side screw



Remove the plate and you will see the indexing lever and the indexing spring



Remove the index lever and carefully turn out the index pin



To remove the barrel you will need to get past the anti tamper cap in the top of the barrel holder



I did this by tapping the cap into the barrel holder with a hammer and drift but you might want to drill it out incase it gets stuck. However, mine was easy to remove



Once you move the anti tamper cap out of the way you will see the top barrel holder screw


Remove the grub screw in the top of the block



This not only holds the magazine axis pin assembly but also secures the barrel



Remove the filler hole plug



This reveals the bottom barrel screw

Copyright © Steve miller 2012. All Rights Reserved.

[Crab Doctor]

Undo this and the barrel lifts away from the cylinder



The barrel will then pop out with little effort. Remember to locate the grub screw in the dimple in the end of the barrel when reassembling and tighten the muzzel end FIRST.



Once the barrel is removed, a cleaning rod can be used to nudge the anti tamper cap out of the barrel holder. I realised as I was putting the gun back together that the barrel weight just slides off the barrel so a rod is not necessary.



Remove the screw underneath the breach


Remove the stock retaining screw and remove the stock


The anti tamper cap at the rear of the scope rail needs to be drilled out. Be very careful not to drill too far and damage the bolt


Screw a wood screw into the hole


And lift the cap out


Draw the bolt back to reveal the rear block retaining screw


Carefully lift the block away from the cylinder, being very careful not to lose the 'o' rings on the transfer port

[Crab Doctor]

This releases the trigger and hammer assembly


Remove the transfer port



Remove the other transfer port 'o' ring to keep them together whilst you work.



It is important to do this as the 'o' rings are very small and easy to lose.



Not sure what this is called but it needs to come out



Use an allen key



And the bolt slides right out



Tap out the pin that holds the trigger assembly together



You do not need to do this to separate the trigger from the hammer assembly. Just pinch the rear of the trigger and the hammer assembly will pop out.



Be careful to take note of where all the springs were

[Crab Doctor]

The trigger is very simple.



To dismantle the safety mechanism, undo the two tiny grub screws.


They are both loose because if they are tight, they will lock the mechanism. Bear this in mind when you reassemble it.


Inside you will fing a spring on a little ball bearing.


Very simple mechanism. When reassembled, the end will rotate 360 degrees until you replace it into the rear of the cylinder and screw the rear block screw into place. Just make sure it is set to safe when reassembling, it makes it allot easier.


WARNING: DO NOT DISMANTLE THE HAMMER ASSEMBLY UNLESS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY! In the side of the hammer assembly there is a hole that you can use to lock the hammer head in place while you unscrew the hammer head pin at the other end.


It's much easier to put the hammer assembly on a hard, flat surface and use a fat screwdriver and an allen key to undo the hammer head pin.


Hammer head pin, hammer casing, washer, hammer spring and hammer head.You will notice the hammer head thread is slightly oval as if it has been squashed. This is to prevent the hammer pin from accidentally winding in or out.


Carefully unscrew the pressure gauge. Be VERY CAREFUL not to strip the threads when reassembling!!


Check the 'o' ring AND the thread for wear or damage.

[Crab Doctor]

The prodtruding stock screw spacer needs to be removed to remove the valve screws and the grub screw underneath.


It is essential that you use your wifes favourite towel to protect the screw spacer whilst you grip it tighly to unscrew it . REMEMBER, your wifes FAVOURITE towel!!


Revealing the grub screw underneath


Undo the valve screws. 1...


Then the grub screw


It looked like mine once had thread lock on it but I didn't lock mine when I put it back together.


Screw 2


Screw 3


Gently tap out the main valve housing and the damper valve


Main valve

[Crab Doctor]

Damper valve


Using two allen keys, as close to the size of holes as possible to prevent damage, place a bar between and unscrew the main valve housing end cap


The main valve stem unit itself simply pulls out


There are three screws that hold the inlet valve assembly in place. 1



2



3



The inlet valve assembly should then just pull out.


I used a small vice with plastic jaws, shielded with tissue to gently grip the inlet valve pin to unscrew it.


It is very important to keep these parts clean. To reassemble, reverse the process, making sure you do NOT pinch the 'o' rings. Make sure you fill your gun SLOWLY and leave over night to check for leaks BEFORE you replace the anti tamper caps.


Barrel holder anti tamper cap


If you have access to a lathe and some delrin, here are the dimensions of the anti tamper caps as these are very difficult to find.






Rear anti tamper cap


Remember to charge your rifle and leave overnight to check for leaks BEFORE you replace the anti tamper caps.

[Andy]

Had to lose the reply posts to add all the pics.

[1961nuffield]

Nice write up. Thanks for doing that.


John

[o050cal0o]

He should sell that as a hynes manual. you couldnt ask for a better more informative guide if Logun did one themselfs 10/10 mate

[UB8Sniper]

Nice one. Looks good