This is a discussion on How to zero a scope within the Airgun Data Center forums, part of the Airguns category; Since it's something that newcomers to the sport struggle with, I thought it might be an idea to do a ...
Since it's something that newcomers to the sport struggle with, I thought it might be an idea to do a brief post on how to zero a scope.
Click on the pictures to enlarge.
Before starting, it's important to have the basics right, that is to say the 'eye relief' is properly set (this means that when you shoulder the rifle and look through the scope, you see the full image without moving your head backwards or forwards). - if this needs adjusting, undo the allen bolts slightly and slide the scope along the rail until it's comfortable, then re-tighten.
Next, be sure that the crosshairs on the reticle are properly aligned vertically and horizontally, in this picture, I have used the fence panels as a vertical reference -
If this needs correcting, slacken off the Allen bolts on top of the mounts, and gently rotate the scope (without moving it back and forth), and then re-tighten.
Your reticle may not look like the one in the picture, it may look like one of these -
or even another style, either way it will generally have horizontal and vertical references.
Now we are ready for business. Try to do this on a day with no crosswind!
On the top and side of the scope, around half way along, you'll find the 'turrets', that is to say the dials that you'll use to zero, which are often referred to as 'windage' and 'elevation'. Sometimes these are already exposed, often, they're under caps like this -
If caps are fitted, take them off and put them to one side.
Next, find a cardboard box perhaps a foot square on the face, fill it with something heavy and make a cross (+ not x) about 2" high and 2" wide in the middle of the box with a marker pen, measure or pace it out and place it so that it's 10 yards away, then make sure of your backstop.
With the rifle on a firm support / on a bipod / as stable as you can make it, and using your favoured pellets, take three careful shots at the centre of the cross. If all is well, you'll have a tight group of shots. For this example, let's say you're 1" low and 1" right of centre.
Always adjust for vertical first, as barring crosswinds your vertical alignment won't change with distance, and using the turret on the side of the scope, you'll see something similar to this -
This type adjusts with your fingers, some use a screwdriver, and in yet others the whole barrel turns, but it should be fairly obvious.
You'll notice a marking 'L', meaning left, and an arrow indicating which way to go. You'll also notice the markings '1 click ¼" 100 yards', meaning that each click in the direction of the arrow will shift your effective point of impact ¼" left at a range of 100 yards. Since we are working at only one tenth of that distance, each click will only shift aim by one tenth of the amount, so in our example 40 clicks will be needed to get to the vertical line at 10 yards.
Take another shot at centre, and see where you are, repeating as necessary until you are striking the vertical line, and of course to shift the effective point of aim to the right, turn the turret dial in the opposite direction, ie. against the arrow.
When you are hitting the vertical line (in our example, we'll be 1" below the horizontal line), you can move on to the elevation turret -
and the idea is much the same, except that the dial is marked 'UP'. In our example, roughly 40 clicks will be needed to get up the horizontal. Again, repeat as necessary and fine tune.
Once you are happy, move the target out to your chosen zeroing distance, (in my case 30 yards), and fine tune using the same procedure laid out. Bear in mind that at 30 yards, approximately one third of the number of clicks will be needed, ie roughly 12 clicks to shift by an inch. (since 30 yards is nearly one third of the 100 yards that the turrets are calibrated for). Replace your turret caps if fitted, job's a goodun
I hope this helps somebody, it serves me very well. Happy shooting
Your fence is not straight,does that mean your scope is now on the piss.
On a serious note folks, you can also use a plumb line on a calm day to get your crosshair level, just get a piece of string and tie a weight to the end then hang it from your preferred location.This will help those who don't have a garden fence.
Great suggestion, Andy, and thanks.
There are, of course, other methods to zero, and everyone's input is welcome.
Constructive criticism too
Nice one Dave, also you could put a spirit level up the side of a door frame, if its vertical, then line your scope up that way
My gun's are tool's not weapons
lol nice bit of info mate cheers for that
Good info whats your view on using adjustable scope mounts to zero
If there's any sort of breeze you could use a black & decker laser-level to project a plumb line.Originally Posted by Andy
On a serious note folks, you can also use a plumb line on a calm day to get your crosshair level, just get a piece of string and tie a weight to the end then hang it from your preferred location.
Mind you don't shoot it tho'
say when you have zerod it to 30 yards , does it hit dead on from 30 downwards depending on wind ... or would you have to zero it for the closer range ??
Generally the idea would be to zero at your preferred comfortable maximum distance, (in my case 30 yards). You will then find you'll be pretty much bang on at 10 yards.
Because the pellet flies in an arc, at distances between 10 and 30 yards, you'll hit above the aim point, beyond 30 yards below the aim point. This will vary with velocity and pellet weight, and is more pronounced in the larger calibres eg. 0.25, and the flattest trajectory is 0.177
Since you can't realistically zero for every shot, you have to learn 'hold over' and 'hold under', this is part of the skill of shooting.
cheers for clearing that up
going to take a little time to get use to the scope i think haha
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